cruiser54

Hi cruiser, I would be very interested in seeing this! Thanks Gene TSB 18-51-88

Won't this affect INJ timing also? I understand the 'closer' side of this, but moving the pickup, changes TDC. No. Injector timing is controlled by the sync generator in the distributor. Sync signal determines INJ sequence. INJ timing uses teeth count on the flywheel. Not here to start a pissing contest, just a understanding. Maybe a new topic, don't want to hijack thread. Hmmm. the ECU has a default for determining sequence. I believe that's why a bad sync generator's only symptom is longer crank times. And, the factory made their own high altitude CPS which had the sensor portion moved on the mount. See here: http://cruiser54.com/?p=127

If I remember correctly, the bulletin replaced the CPS with one that had a slotted hole in it for the upper bolt. Still had a plug, but a harness was wired through a hole drilled in the firewall and the harness was pinned directly into the eCU. I could find it if you want. Longer crank times can sometimes be caused by a bad sync generator. There is a test procedure for it somewhere. since I have the factory tester I always rely on that to tell me if it is good.

Won't this affect INJ timing also? I understand the 'closer' side of this, but moving the pickup, changes TDC. No. Injector timing is controlled by the sync generator in the distributor.

Heater control valve not opening?

https://www.amazon.com/Crown-Automotive-83502745-Fuel-Repair/dp/B00B8X56RA These won't work? That's the one. If you only need the o-rings: Fuel disconnects Quick disconnect part numbers The Napa part numbers for just o-rings *is: Napa 730-5018 3/8 Viton individual o-rings Napa 730-5017 5/16 Viton individual o-rings Napa CRB 212305 fuel line repair kit 5/16 *Remember to re-use your old spacer between the 2 new o-rings!! Mopar repair kits: 83502745 fuel line repair kit 5/16 83504447 fuel line/Trans line repair kit 3/8

Sounds like a decent setup.

I dunno. :dunno: Don't have time to mess with it this week. I get truck time this weekend. Test the O2 ... key on or key off?? What's the O2 thread size if I wanted to plug it temporarily. I DO have a cracked...kinda ruined knock sensor, too. TIA guys. Key off and unplugged. You're testing the resistance of the heater element inside the O2 sensor.

Good idea to check the oxygen sensor although you can run without it. test the resistance on the O2 sensor pigtail between the black and red wires. Should be 6 to 8 ohms. What is your cPS output?

Always a good idea to run it and pull the fuel pump relay so it stalls before beginning the job. On a Renix it's super simple to leave the fuel lines connected while swapping the injectors. HO isn't much harder. Get the clips off the injectors and unbolt the rail. Using even pull on the rail with both hands, give a yank. Note which o-rings are where and account for them. I clean the holes in the intake manifold with an old diesel injector brush. Install the injectors into the rail, line the injectors up in the manifold holes. Give the rail a push evenly on both sides. Motor oil is a good lube for the o-rings.

195*. buy the one from the dealer. Spendy, but the best one out there.

MJ is a different duck with the load sensing valve. On my XJ with rear discs, I just swapped the guts of the prop valve from the same zJ I got the rear discs from. On the MJ it is more complicated, On the one with drum rears, I eliminated the load sensing valve and the prop valve. Ran the lines for the front brakes in a T. Figured out which real line went to the rear brakes themselves and used an adjustable prop valve. The MJ with discs on the rear, I've done the same except I haven't installed the adjustable prop valve into the rear line yet.

No mod needed to the rod. No need to swap prop valve.

Yes!!! Thanks!! Here it is. Saved!! http://cruiser54.com/?page_id=233

A search yielded nothing. I'm looking for the thread on replacing the bearing in the AC compressor bracket that holds the fan driving shaft.

Not always. Let's verify it first and we can go from there. 1 quart of Marvel Mystery Oil in place of a quart of motor oil for 1,000 miles or more helps.

Which solenoid is that? either the B+ latch or the Fuel Pump wasn`t closing properly, to be sure changed both, it`s working so far... Coulda found that out by moving each of the relays over one spot.

How did you know I did that?

Yup. Shut it off ASAP. Wait ten seconds and re-start. Probably will be gone. What oil filter are you using?

746 work best in Renix. Here's where to get them. http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f72/784-703-710-injectors-222140/

Get a $5 stethoscope at Hobo Freight and track down the chirp.

5 seconds/

true that. But none the less, the acronym is great!!!!!

what is your CPS output voltage?

I get all my parts from Napa, I can't afford dealership parts. This^^^ Chinese Replacement Auto Parts = CRAP Sorry Sorry nothing. That's the truth right there.