Billy

Thanks much

Just asking to get it out of the way but have you made sure to turn your light knob? Same one that dims your dash lights, thought I had the same lightning issue and figured out my knob was just turned off.

I was just doing to reading on the history of AMC and I can across this article. That is defiantly a Jeep Comanche pictures on the left of the photo. I was just curious if anyone else has any links or knows anything about this? I mean heck I wonder if somewhere in China there’s just Comanche parts sitting around or even the actual trucks, who knows? Just thought this was very interesting. Link

Was dinking around at the junk yard and saw a inner fender fluid reservoir on a grand Cherokee. Is it possible to put that on a 91 manche?

Dang...I had someone break into my truck via the stock side passenger vent window and I remember how hard it was to find that. Defiantly going to be more careful loading my truck up and not break that back glass.

Well I have a little maintenance to do tomorrow. I’ll post some photography. Thanks all, trying to avoid any speeding tickets

Thanks a lot for that link, just what I needed. So I need to actually sit there and count the teeth?

My speedometer needle started bouncing like mad the other day and then stopped working altogether. Took a look at the cable and followed it to the tranny where it connects. It was very loose and I pulled the rod out with the plastic gear on it just to take a look. i wanted to make sure I did this correctly. Forgive me for not knowing the exact terminology. The plastic gear that goes into the tranny has the number “55” on it. I looked up which way I need to line up the numbers on the actual part that the rod slides into and has the big nut on it. I aligned it to the “39-45”. I have 27 inch tires. After I put everything together my speedometer works again but I want to make sure It’s accurate. Thanks

Gosh darn it I haven’t logged in for a while. I’m in the same boat as Limey ^^^. Charcoal

I would of tried and mounted it overhead. I have a heat vent where you placed your cobra I wouldn’t want to block. Great freebie

Ok guys everything’s finally worked out. I removed the spacer and my brake light button is working fine and re-bleed my lines and I have significant better brakes than my stock set up. For anyone thinking about this swap I would do it. the things that hung me up which can be easily avoided 1. Make sure your brake light button is seated all the way in its bracket in front of the brake pedal. Took me a long time to realize everything was spaced correctly but couldn’t figure out why my brake pedal wasn’t engaging the break light button. The button was simple not seated all the way in its bracket 2. Take your time with the brake lines from the proportioning valve to the MC if you need to bend or reroute them. 3. Reconnect your brake booster vacuum hose lol really appreciate the help

Went to the junkyard today and pulled a MC and booster from a grand Cherokee, removed as a whole unit. Pretty simple swap but have two problems. I think the booster from the yard is bad... I get a “squish” sound when I apply the brakes. It feels like my braking power is the same with the stock MC/booster, I figured braking would be better after the swap. I need to remove the spacer that came with the grand Cherokee booster because the brake pedal isn’t pressing down on the brake light button. I had to tape a folded up piece of cardboard on my brake pedal for the time being so my break lights work properly. Also while I was under the truck I noticed someone did a height sensing valve by pass, do I still need to bleed the brake lines as the FSM link suggests? Does the New MC have to be benched bleed? last question and thanks for all the replies, wheres a good spot to relocate the windshield wiper reservoir? i can post photos if you want em

That’s a set up I like. Thanks for the help, I’m commiting to this considering all the trouble I have. Freshly stripped driver wheel well...

If I can find a 95-96 Xj at a PnP do I need to be cautious about anything? Anyway I can tell if it’s going to give me problems? Or just order a new set up? thanks again

I ran out of day light but I’m going to try and see if the front reservoir is squirting into the back one tomorrow. Thanks for that tip. Only question I have is why would that indicate that I need a new MC? Does that mean something’s buggered internally inside the MC? thanks again but I am pretty gosh darn close to 100% positive it’s leaking from the top of the MC cap. I’ve spent the last 3 days combing over the brake system. Tried the cardboard trick, followed the bubbled paint, etc etc etc on etc. I scrubbed my entire engine bay clean, crawled under the truck cleaned everything. It was BONE dry From break fluid, checked it the next morning still bone dry. Drove it to work and checked it again and I have leakage from around the MC cap. I also did the 2 foot test as hard as possible with my buddy and it just seems to leak from the cap while I’m driving. i was thinking it starts leaking while under constant pressure while slowing down at stop signs etc? Also I’m hesitant to replace the Mc because it’s fairly new.

Hey guys and gals, I sitting here scratching my head. I have a master cylinder on a 91 Comanche that just keeps leaking out the top like a son of a gun. I’ve spent about the last 3 days trying to figure it out. I’ve read all the write ups from this AWESOME website but still no luck. The weird thing is only the front reservoir for the rear brakes keeps running low. Break fluid had already stripped a good amount of paint...and I’ve gone through 2 bottles of Dot 3. 1. I’ve doubled, tripled, and quadrupled checked all the MC fittings....no leaks 2. Connection from MC to booster....no leak 3. Booster no leak 3. Proportioning valve no leak 4. Rear drum breaks no leak 5. Front calipers no leak 6. Height sensing valve no leak break lines check out, I’ve bleed the break system twice just for good measure and everything is checking out. I am positive it’s leaking from the top. I cleaned the lid edge of the MC and took all the crap off, it’s down to very clean metal. I’ve even checked to see if the MC as well as the lid is just warped but it’s all good. I also tightened down the wire that woods the lid down. Is it as simple as the seal? It’s a brand new seal, it’s not hard or cracked. I just don’t freakin know but I don’t want anymore stripped paint and no more morning Dot 3 top offs. any ideas?

Nice, but a army bumper sticker would be a better upgrade.

hit up the junkyard, that's were I would look first. Also, the euramatec pillar lights are so close to the original I'm thinking the lens would fit in your stock housing

Thanks, super helpful

Hey....how could I get one of those handy parts manual? I have a 1991 Pioneer H.O.

Kind of a last min post but I'm going to be at a car show in Yelm, Washington tomorrow. It's kind of a all around classic car-show what you got show and I'm just going to cruise my Comanche down there. If anyone is interested I'll be there helping run a booth. I help take veterans on free fishing trips (I mean free...biggest question I get asked. bring your own lunch and smokes) and were running a booth out at the Yelm car show. Giving back to those who serve. Here's a link http://www.t9oquarrymen.com/images/6_Yelm_car_Show_September_3,_2016.pdf I'll be at the Gotyour6 fishing booth

"Also, I recently upgraded to a 1990 ECU (made for a manual transmission) thanks to Cruiser54." Obviously it's Cruser54's fault. Take back his free magnet and ban. This was out of my league but learned a lot from this post. You ever check the #3 solenoid just curious?

Code 53 = PCM http://www.jeep-xj.info/HowtoECUcodes.htm check this out might help http://www.allpar.com/fix/codes/faults/code-53.html

Checked them out but they discontinued the MJ metric ton leafs. Know anywhere else to get them? I'm salvaging a bastard pack but if I can find a metric ton set I want to go with those.

Thanks for the tip