omega_rugal

a confirmed working TCU does the same? then you have a bad wire somewhere if it comes from the same year XJ/MJ then it should be plug n play, there are like 3 version that are not fully compatible, 88 - 95, mid 90s ones and 99+ ones that would be the right procedure but you need a tester with some long cables since you already confirmed that the tranny does shift when the solenoids get power why don't you install a 2nd gear switch? or better yet, a manual shifter?

try before buy, it may be a bad harness too

25. Valve cover mod Most early and even later Renix 4.0s could be bothered by excessive oil in the air cleaner box. A fix from my old days as Service Manager at a Jeep dealership follows. Information was provided to me from a buddy at JeepTech during those days. I don’t believe it ever came out in a Technical Service Bulletin. Remove the valve cover and turn it over. Next, remove the fluted tubes that are now facing you by removing three screws on each. Chop 1 inch off each of them. Then, about a half inch up from the area where you just sawed them off, drill a half inch hole in the tubes so the holes will face the rear of the valve cover. Clean and de-burr/sand all rough edges nicely, clean with solvent, and reinstall. Don’t be concerned about the chintzy gaskets that will probably crumble into oblivion when you remove the fluted tubes. They can go back together without gaskets. _____________________________________________________________________________________

try cruiser´s tips, cut the flutes in half and drill a hole in the inner side, it will suck less oil vapours

then the TCU is dead...

theres no connection... or the TCU is dead...

exactly, they may click but they may not be diverting the fluid as they should

put the lever in OD, disconnect the TCU and apply 12v to pins c16-c15 C16 should engage 3rd C15 should engage 1st both pins engage 2nd you need a long wire to be able to do it while in motion so you can verify that the tranny is shifting

unplug the TCU and activate the solenoids yourself, make sure it´s no a solenoid problem

what about this one?

you got a leak

stock mirrors are very small

i need one too, my MJ came with a black plastic instead of rear window, i can't see anything whenever i have to go back i think i´ll me one out of clear plastic and call it a day

why not keep the radiator? you think it may not be adecuate? from what y have seen it´s a lot of modding to fit the large 4.0 one

you will need extra cooling for such long trip under load... also get someone to brake the other truck, MJs have te pulling power but not enough stopping power, ironic i towed a friends 2001 WJ for like 15 miles and had to stop midway to allow it to cool, i didnt know WJs were that heavy

we don't know, you tell us... some pics?

take the head cover off and see if the vavles are opening properly

do you want soem free lift?

the front should be ok, but the rear, ax15 + 4wd + ford 8.8? that combo may not match any of the measurements we have. also, do your rear axle is the 1 piece tube? because the thick, 2 piece axle is difficult to cut and rebalance

no problem, i don't know if it´s good or bad but i always over think about everything, and like the challenge of building what hasnt been built the shackles should be as short as posible to avoid any more unwanted lift, and made out of thick steel for longevity as for the front mount there are 2 ways: move the offset down, which adds lift, and we don't want more lift OR move the offset BACK, i´m thinking of a square piece of steel that slides in the mount and bolts where the leaf bushing, protuding just enough to offset out and then drill the holes there, this would move the axle back about an inch which could make up for the lenght difference between a turdy 5 and a chrysler 8.25, which may be the only reason to do this swap, replacing the weakest MJ axle with the most common axle you can get out of almost any XJ i´ll try to make a drawing

i quote myself on this

all of it, the EGR for instance, remove all components and cap all vacuum hoses that go to it, you can disconnect the EGR valve or remove it and plug the hole... the evap canister is up to you, but beware of gas fumes in summer...

truck suspension must be some sort of rocket science

so the square radiator fits directly into the MJ, good to know

thicker plates? also the MJ would require shorter, less bent ones... you know what forget it