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Ωhm

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Everything posted by Ωhm

  1. Gauge Cluster lights are controlled by the dimmer switch on the headlight switch. Switch maybe set to OFF. Rotate the knob from one end to the other end.
  2. If using the Coolant Temperature Sender (Dash Gauge) located on the back of the head, your temperature readings will be higher than specification. Radiator Temperature Switch (RTS) specification is 198°F ±9°F. This is the range for the RTS to close.
  3. Do you have a microwave vent or stove hood vent leading to the outside? Critters like them.
  4. Could it be deliberate? Possibly something similar to a BIC lighter.
  5. When replacing the FPR, check the fuel return line for blockage back to the fuel tank.
  6. NSS passes 12vdc for the backup light bulbs. Socket case provides ground. C159_G: BRN W/TR
  7. I'm surprised with 40psi on the fuel rail. Two (2) test for the fuel pump is fuel pressure and fuel flow rate. With the leaky FPR I'm wondering if your failing the fuel flow rate. Maybe someone else can chime in on this.
  8. Yes. Good chance you had no/low fuel pressure at the injectors. Hopefully reason for NO START. Try and siphon off as much fuel from intake as possible before attempting RE START.
  9. Check vacuum hose between Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR) and intake manifold for raw fuel.
  10. Voltage shows good. D1_6 should be the same voltage at the fuel pump. Should be. Quick Distributor Indexing Test: Remove Distributor Cap. Move Crank timing mark to TDC. Rotor should either be just pulling away from Cylinder #1 or Cylinder #6. Will depend on which cylinder is on the compression stroke.
  11. That sounds dangerous. Take caution.
  12. I did have to look it up, otherwise I would have been off by two pages.
  13. 88 Electrical Manual page 95 and 96.
  14. Take a voltage reading at D1_6 during engine CRANK.
  15. Does your vehicle have a Ballast Resistor for the fuel pump circuit? 87's could be wired a couple different ways.
  16. When LOGGED-IN. Go to upper right hand corner of screen. Click on Username. Click on Account Settings. Find and click on Signature. Add vehicle information here (YR, ENG, TRANS, etc, etc) then click on SAVE. This helps everyone. This information will be available every time you post.
  17. Hate to spend your money, but I believe the O2 sensor is a maintenance item. O2S response times can slow down. Replace at least once in a engine lifetime even if not needed.
  18. Ωhm

    Out of the loop

    Just seen some pictures on TV. What a mess. Hang tough.
  19. I would not expect a OPEN circuit between A and B. It is just one wire in/out wrapped around a magnet.
  20. I have to ask. 0.7vdc or 0.7vac? CPS voltage, during CRANK, is taken on the AC scale.
  21. CPS has been known to cause NO SPARK, NO INJECTORS.
  22. Voltage readings are normal. Good time for cruisers tips. Can you hear the fuel pump run for 2-3 seconds when KEY is cycled ON?
  23. Using a voltmeter or testlight (preferred) check for B+ on the following pins (use battery negative terminal for ground): D1_5: B+ (Hot at all times) D2_4: B+ (Hot during KEY ON/CRANKING). D1_6: KEY ON (B+ (For 2-3 seconds)) or CRANKING (B+ (Hot during CRANK)).
  24. Could be the Air Hose between the Air Box and Throttle Body collapsing. Try running the engine with Air Hose disconnected.
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