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You saying its slicing into the harness?

Hate to do this to you, but that plug is NPT, that is, its pipe thread. If plug leaks do not attempt to over tighten it. You'll need anti-galling compound. Hope I'm not to late.

Your between a rock and a hard place. Tough to find out what went wrong. Two, three days of running just fine. Do one or more of the fuse links have bubbles in it? Even if they do, hard to sort out which feed they are. Can you determine if its one circuit, one splice, one color code or is there to much damage? All kinds of questions now.

Your gas cap should not vent. Tex06 found this online: The EVAP test ensures that there are no leaks in the hose between the Gas Tank and Charcoal Canister... it that simple. The technician must clamp the end of the hose leading to the canister and pressurize the gas tank with Nitrogen via the EVAP test tool. The EVAP test tool will then calculate the drop in pressure due to any leaks. Technically there should be very little drop in pressure once the gas tank is pressurized. Should there be a pressure loss the machine will fail the EVAP portion of the smog test.

Fuel pump ballast resistor?????

You mean there's two different gas caps for the same vehicle. Don't know what to say. Maybe they both hold pressure. Also check your gas cap gasket. Sometimes a new one helps. Some else know about gas caps?

Should say "vented" somewhere on the cap.

Head gasket should be alright. Radiator cap should have bled off any excess pressure. Two (2) different kinds of radiator caps out there. One for closed and one for open systems. Something to do with a moving poppet valve.

Make sure your fuel cap is not vented. Easy check.

I'm dumbfounded. You took a major hit here.

Pull the block drain plug, then flush. https://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.lunghd.com%2FTech_Articles%2FEngine%2FBasic_Sensors_Diagnostics%2FSensor_Coolant_For_ECU.jpg&imgrefurl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.lunghd.com%2FTech_Articles%2FEngine%2FBasic_Sensors_Diagnostics.htm&docid=6hvZn5YUsKcUNM&tbnid=4Jb3oUzj2h-AyM%3A&vet=10ahUKEwjK0oKPut7SAhUL1oMKHdOvAPYQMwgeKAIwAg..i&w=702&h=753&bih=638&biw=1024&q=renix%204.0l%20fuel%20injection%20service%20manual&ved=0ahUKEwjK0oKPut7SAhUL1oMKHdOvAPYQMwgeKAIwAg&iact=mrc&uact=8#h=753&imgrc=4Jb3oUzj2h-AyM:&vet=10ahUKEwjK0oKPut7SAhUL1oMKHdOvAPYQMwgeKAIwAg..i&w=702

Air hose.

Hose from radiator to overflow bottle plugged?

Disconnect the battery and park it outside for the evening.

Can't post pictures. Check your Email. Coming soon.

Theoretically speaking, OP could run a wire from B+ to D1-5. Tie it down. But this would be extremely dangerous and could cause vehicle damage.

Yep, on fuse links

EC harness gets power from Fuse Link G for the fuel pump. C101 goes to the Injector harness, nothing to do with fuel pump or the fuel pump relay. I don't want to burn your MJ to the ground. Wait and see if others can chime in on Fuse Link replacement or inline fuse replacement.

Thanks for the resource. I cleaned and reinstalled the dipstick ground, 4 relays, connectors near it, and C101 connector. I checked C106 D1-5 and only got a reading on the batt. Pin (5.6 reading). C103 B got a reading of .12. All readings had the ignition on and everything reinstalled. Well way back in post #26, I see your voltage reading for C103_B was 0.12vdc, not 12vdc as I thought. Your problem is Fuse Link G is blown. Don't know much about replacement Fuse Links. Maybe someone can help here.

The harness with both splice E and splice F is called the engine control (EC) harness. Can you measure C103_B on both sides of the connector, when disconnected? We need B+ on the engine (E) harness side.

Need C103_B voltage (engine harness side), that's what supplies splice E with voltage.

That's the job of the fuel pump relay to supply B+ from pin 30 to pin 87, when the relay is grounded (picked) through the ECU. That's why splice E is hot.

Splice E is hot at all times. Key position doesn't matter.

C216 fuel pump relay pin 30: .08 Sounds like were're back to splice E (red). Need to confirm B+ voltage at the following point: Disconnect and measure voltage at C103_B (Engine Harness side). Side note on Diagnostic Connectors (refer to pg 18): C106 is the connector #, also known as D1 followed by pin #. C107 is the connector #, also known as D2 followed by pin #. I'll stop using C106 and C107 and just call them D1-pin# or D2-pin#. So when I ask for D1-5 it mean pin 5, not pins 1 through 5. Just because I understand me doesn't mean others do. Sorry about the confusion.

Add one more measurement. Measure voltage at C216_1(30), (relay removed) should read B+ voltage.