Tex06

Ouch. $115 plus shipping on rock auto. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Damn, even without any extra load (lights, winch, stereo, etc)? I was trying to get a set of pre-made wires but it's looking like I'll be buying a hydraulic crimper and making my own. Anyone have gauges/ lengths needed by chance? Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Anybody got a part number or link for replacement vacuum tube for the heater? The stuff that runs from under the dash thru the firewall and to the actuator for the heater. Mine's all cracked and falling apart. Winter is coming. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Well, I burned up an alternator. Picture attached. I've had the issue still come and go, although tonight I had a possible breakthrough. Replaced the alt with the 130A dodge truck one and ground down my bracket to make it fit. Old one is clearly shot. Read somewhere that a bad negative connection on the battery can cause alt failure, so cleaned and retightened my negative post (didn't really tighten, the cable end is shot). Issue came back with a vengeance. Fought it all day today and half of yesterday. Tonight, moved my negative cable on battery post and problem was instantly better (not solved but better it seemed on the test drive). Going to keep trying this as a "fix" until I can replace the cable with a heavier gauge one. Side note: as my alternator was dying, I kept getting a tps engine code (24 I believe. Tps voltage out of range). I've replaced this thing 3 times this year with napa or Mopar parts after reading 4.89vDC @ idle. Think this is relevant? Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

NSS needs to be replaced. Shouldn't be a big deal or very expensive, never done one in a jeep but done plenty in GM and Ford applications. Usually takes less than 30 minutes and $30. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Have you done the cruiser tips for ground refreshing yet? These things are notorious for electrical bugs. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Put it in neutral and try it. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Mechanical engineer for a welding firm. Feels good to have a paycheck again!

Around town it was smooth as butter, I could do everything with one finger. It was only on the extended trips at highways speeds that I noticed the heat and 5->4 shift was just a little notchy.

"An oil can be trusted to be "yellow-metal friendly" if it adheres to GL-4 standards." The valvoline I used is classified as 1B. I think it'll be OK even though it's a GL-4/GL-5 lubricant. https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2554764

Tranny needs a rebuild anyway. The GL-5 was much cheaper than anything else. It's staying for now, I know people that have run it for years without issues. I have a junkyard tranny that's going in in the next few weeks while I rebuild this one. It'll probably get GL-5 for cost reasons too.

Some observations on gearbox oil. Bought my MJ with 202k on the clock,ran it for 3k before I started having issues with the transmission kicking out of 1st when shifting into it from a stop. Figured I'd try a fluid flush and see if there's any change, so I swapped it for Mobil 1 10w-30 full synthetic motor oil. This has been recommended many places online as modern GL-4 and GL-5 gear oils are not brass friendly. My notes from this: As soon as I swapped in the Mobil 1 I noticed shifts were easier, felt "slick". Didn't help or hurt the shifting issue at first. Did notice on long highway trips 2 things. 1. The shifter handle got much warmer to the point of being too hot to comfortably grab at the shifter joint. 2. After an hour or so at highway speeds, downshifting from 5 to 4 was difficult. It would feel like it "hung" in 5th. Annoying, esp when the rest of the gears (except 1st ) were so slick. After about 3000 miles the problems have gotten worse. 1st gear is almost unusable, and periodically it kicks out of 2nd when downshifting (never on the upshift). Figured my tranny needed a rebuild anyway so I swapped fluids again, this time to a GL-4/ GL-5 fluid 80w-90, conventional. Notes on this: Drove straight from Atlanta to Baton Rouge (about 8.5 hours of highway time). Most notable was the lack of heat on the shifter handle followed by the ease of downshifting from 5-4. Major improvement there. The rest of the gears weren't quite as "slick" feeling but nothing felt notchy or stiff. Once I got to BR, my around town driving was improved. 1st is still finicky but usable and I longer get kicked out of 2nd when downshifting. Tranny still needs a rebuild, but I'm convinced now that motor oil belongs in the motor and I'll risk sulphur eating my synchros over friction for sure damaging things. Last note, my gas mileage on this trip (Atl-BR, Sept) averaged 19.4 mpg loaded over 2 tanks. My last trip with the Mobil 1 (BR-ATL, May) averaged 17.7 mpg with an empty truck. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Tranny, transfer case, slave/master combo, and all accessories only set me back $100. Fun part was pulling by myself, with no jack, on the ground. Oh and rocks.....not dirt but golf ball sized rocks.

Plan was to swap in a JY tranny with external slave and rebuild my own to put in when the clutch goes. The clutch still feels solid and starts to engage less than halfway up. Pops out of first every time from a standstill but if you roll into it (1st gear that is) everything works as it should.

Went to two different places today....found exactly 1 Ax-15 (2wd) and 1 4x4 (automatic). Of approximately 14 Cherokees I looked at. Apparently everyone in Atlanta bought 2wd slushboxes...... Tomorrow gonna try some places on the southside. Might have found another online but will have to call tomorrow.

Don't need to*? And yes, bellhousing, shifter, all the clutch bits in the bellhousing, tranny, and all the bolts in engine and transfer case. Sent from atop the porcelain throne.

Thanks Tim! I was planning on grabbing the bellhousing back. Didn't think about the fork, etc, I'll grab all the clutch pieces too while I'm there (bearing included but I'll probably buy a new one from Advance or whatnot). My clutch plates should still work though correct? The P.O. had it done just prior to me purchasing and I've only put 10k on it since (I'm really easy on clutches).

If I can't locate a '94+ tranny, I spied a '92 (internal slave)I could use and just go with my slave (because it's known good). Anyone in the Atlanta, Ga area have either one just laying about by chance?

Guys, just wanting to make sure I've got my head on straight for this weekend's project. I've got a '92 with an internal slave AX-15 and a first gear that isn't liking life right now. I want to swap the tranny for an external slave AX-15 out of a '94-'01 Cherokee (4wd, same as mine). Questions are: Will any 4wd Cherokee (or Wrangler '94-'99) AX-15 work or do the different transfer cases matter? Do I need anything besides the JY tranny, a new slave cylinder and a bit of JY slave line, and a compression fitting to connect the slave line to my current line coming from the Master Cylinder? Planning on doing this Friday and getting the pieces Wednesday and Thursday from the local U-Pull-It.

600 is a little high for a turbo'ed motor. Find a good long hill and get up it quick like (don't have to floor it but push it). Make sure EGTs don't get over 1100F. I try to keep mine under 1050F. Adjust fuel accordingly. Or use a loaded trailer and floor it. Usually about the same difference. Basically as long as you can drive the truck without going over the 1100 degree mark for anything longer than a moment, you're good. I do know some people keep the fuel turned up and just stay out of the pedal but where's the fun in that? Sent from atop the porcelain throne. Also good call on the tiny tach. Great little unit! The pod cluster should be the same one amazon sells for a 92 jeep Cherokee. I paid I think $28 shipped for mine. Sent from atop the porcelain throne.

Took it out for a spin yesterday. Thrashed it up and down neighborhood roads, county connectors, and state highways. Not one hiccup. I think that's what is most frustrating about this problem....when I do have time to work on it, the issue disappears. Sent from atop the porcelain throne.

I will have to try that. Was just up in Atlanta this weekend but didn't get to work on the MJ. Spent most of my time on my house instead. Sent from atop the porcelain throne.

Think you'll make it back this weekend? Sent from atop the porcelain throne.

Whatever the pack is they sell on ebay (4 bottles I believe) will just barely do a full sized truck bed. I still have spots that are a little thin because I ran out. The upol kit also dries hard, not spongy like rhino or line-x so in the past 2 years I have chipped a bit off. If I were to guess, I'd get 10 bottles for a full size truck (including inside the bed). For an MJ, probably 8 unless you have a short bed. You can always spray a little extra around the edges where the truck gets more wear, running out while spaying sucks. Sent from atop the porcelain throne.

Some of us only know how to drive it like we stole it though [emoji48] "I'm not speeding, I'm qualifying!" Sent from atop the porcelain throne.