Tex06

Tranny, transfer case, slave/master combo, and all accessories only set me back $100. Fun part was pulling by myself, with no jack, on the ground. Oh and rocks.....not dirt but golf ball sized rocks.

Plan was to swap in a JY tranny with external slave and rebuild my own to put in when the clutch goes. The clutch still feels solid and starts to engage less than halfway up. Pops out of first every time from a standstill but if you roll into it (1st gear that is) everything works as it should.

Went to two different places today....found exactly 1 Ax-15 (2wd) and 1 4x4 (automatic). Of approximately 14 Cherokees I looked at. Apparently everyone in Atlanta bought 2wd slushboxes...... Tomorrow gonna try some places on the southside. Might have found another online but will have to call tomorrow.

Don't need to*? And yes, bellhousing, shifter, all the clutch bits in the bellhousing, tranny, and all the bolts in engine and transfer case. Sent from atop the porcelain throne.

Thanks Tim! I was planning on grabbing the bellhousing back. Didn't think about the fork, etc, I'll grab all the clutch pieces too while I'm there (bearing included but I'll probably buy a new one from Advance or whatnot). My clutch plates should still work though correct? The P.O. had it done just prior to me purchasing and I've only put 10k on it since (I'm really easy on clutches).

If I can't locate a '94+ tranny, I spied a '92 (internal slave)I could use and just go with my slave (because it's known good). Anyone in the Atlanta, Ga area have either one just laying about by chance?

Guys, just wanting to make sure I've got my head on straight for this weekend's project. I've got a '92 with an internal slave AX-15 and a first gear that isn't liking life right now. I want to swap the tranny for an external slave AX-15 out of a '94-'01 Cherokee (4wd, same as mine). Questions are: Will any 4wd Cherokee (or Wrangler '94-'99) AX-15 work or do the different transfer cases matter? Do I need anything besides the JY tranny, a new slave cylinder and a bit of JY slave line, and a compression fitting to connect the slave line to my current line coming from the Master Cylinder? Planning on doing this Friday and getting the pieces Wednesday and Thursday from the local U-Pull-It.

600 is a little high for a turbo'ed motor. Find a good long hill and get up it quick like (don't have to floor it but push it). Make sure EGTs don't get over 1100F. I try to keep mine under 1050F. Adjust fuel accordingly. Or use a loaded trailer and floor it. Usually about the same difference. Basically as long as you can drive the truck without going over the 1100 degree mark for anything longer than a moment, you're good. I do know some people keep the fuel turned up and just stay out of the pedal but where's the fun in that? Sent from atop the porcelain throne. Also good call on the tiny tach. Great little unit! The pod cluster should be the same one amazon sells for a 92 jeep Cherokee. I paid I think $28 shipped for mine. Sent from atop the porcelain throne.

Took it out for a spin yesterday. Thrashed it up and down neighborhood roads, county connectors, and state highways. Not one hiccup. I think that's what is most frustrating about this problem....when I do have time to work on it, the issue disappears. Sent from atop the porcelain throne.

I will have to try that. Was just up in Atlanta this weekend but didn't get to work on the MJ. Spent most of my time on my house instead. Sent from atop the porcelain throne.

Think you'll make it back this weekend? Sent from atop the porcelain throne.

Whatever the pack is they sell on ebay (4 bottles I believe) will just barely do a full sized truck bed. I still have spots that are a little thin because I ran out. The upol kit also dries hard, not spongy like rhino or line-x so in the past 2 years I have chipped a bit off. If I were to guess, I'd get 10 bottles for a full size truck (including inside the bed). For an MJ, probably 8 unless you have a short bed. You can always spray a little extra around the edges where the truck gets more wear, running out while spaying sucks. Sent from atop the porcelain throne.

Some of us only know how to drive it like we stole it though [emoji48] "I'm not speeding, I'm qualifying!" Sent from atop the porcelain throne.

This thread. Never fully resolved this issue. It seems like I cleaned the grounds and it helped until there was a weather swing and then the issue returned. Cleaned them all again, weather changed, issue comes back. Anytime the temperature went from hot to cold, the problem came back. It looks like a ground issue but I can't get it to stay gone. And yes, I did cruisers tips and then some. Sent from atop the porcelain throne.

Good luck with that! Any tdi is a hot item around these parts. I do have a couple friends with them but they're all either waiting for the lawsuit or telling the world to pry it out of their cold dead hands. Sent from atop the porcelain throne.

The problem is it isn't that simple. You can tune to make a lot of smoke without it getting hot. Or you can tune it so it's very hot but not showing a lot of smoke. I'd put the probe in pre-turbo; accuracy matters. Post-turbo the correlation of measured temperature vs actual EGT is not completely linear and can be affected by a lot of factors that will be unknown in this case. Well said. OP previously stated going pre turbo may be a big hassel at this point so post turbo gives him something as opposed to nothing right now. Either way, an egt gauge is critical on a diesel. [emoji3] Sent from atop the porcelain throne.

https://vimeo.com/174101231 Above is an example of why you need an egt gauge and why an IR gun won't do. My temps are sitting about 600 while cruising in Houston traffic. Coming down a hill they drop to about 550 at the start and as I accelerate up the next one they climb to about 900 (went from 50-60 mph). As I crest the hill I slow to 55 and my temps drop to 600 before I get there. Point being, EGTs are not like radiator temperature with long latency times. It's real easy to lug a motor up the same hill every morning and burn up your pistons in a month or so. Sent from atop the porcelain throne.

Hard to tell with an IR gun. Even just 15 seconds at idle can drop temperatures drastically, plus you're reading surface temps, not actual gas. I'd advise putting it after the turbo, that way you at least have a way to measure it for now. It's easy to do, and any shavings that fall in just go out the tailpipe. You can even weld the hole up later if you like (not really an option with cast iron). Only other thing I could think of is turning fuel down so you never get black smoke (and high EGRs) but really.... Where's the fun in that? Sent from atop the porcelain throne.

Yeah, that or tap the cast iron (what I've done in the past). After adjusting the IP on a 6.9 IDI we melted the pistons while pulling a trailer. Turns out if we'd just downshifted and gotten more air flowing through the motor, everything would have been fine. We just didn't know. On second thought, you can also put the pyrometer in the head tube, right behind the turbo. I forget what the temps are there, but I'm sure you could look them up (I'm thinking like 750F max). It's not quite as accurate but I've seen it done. Sent from atop the porcelain throne.

I don't really think I need a tranny temp or exhaust temp gauge...shouldnt be under anymore stress than stock really or any hotter. And I've never done anything with diesels before but I've already got a few more Cummins swaps in my head for when I get the money together. I don't think I'd go with anything other than Cummins, just for their simplicity, until I have a complete understanding of diesels. And thanks. Body work should start in a couple weeks. Anybody know the best rocker replacement panels? Always monitor your EGTs in a turbo diesel!!!! Esp with a standard tranny and a motor that is fully mechanical. It's easy to lug a motor in too high of a gear when you should be downshifting. Running rich like that will dump extra fuel down your exhaust system giving you that "cool" black smoke and if you're unlucky, melted pistons. This is doubly true if you are hauling a load, pulling a trailer, or running bigger tires. 1050 F should be the max you see with an absolute max (never exceed) of 1100F. Sent from atop the porcelain throne.

And that folks, is why this forum is awesome! Sent from atop the porcelain throne.

A 12v starter from Autozone will fit right in (don't trade that 24v for the core though! Sell it to another military driver). Same with the glow plugs, I think a set of Bosch 60g plugs run about $65 shipped, you can use the "doghead" relay setup and convert to 12v pretty easily. Injection pump should be a DB2 which is a fine mechanical pump, requires no electricity to run on the trucks. If your generator has a different one, I'd swap it for the DB2 because they're plentiful and easy to use. Sent from atop the porcelain throne.

As for the turbo kit, banks technically no longer sells it, but if you call them they'll put one together for you (you can even customize what you want/don't need in it this way). Another cheaper, but more labor intensive option is to use the exhaust manifolds off of a 90s 6.5 turbo diesel (the blocks are the same) and fab up your own kit. After installing this one and knowing all that's involved, I'd probably try the 6.5 route.... It's really not all that complicated. Just don't skimp on the gauges, they'll save your motor! Sent from atop the porcelain throne.

Hell yeah. I'm a member of the steel soldiers forum and drive a military diesel as my daily driver. Just finishing up a banks turbo install. The block mounts just like a chevy small block, you can get fantastic gas mileage out of them, and they're quite light (for a diesel motor... Think in between a small block and a big block). The military motor (reference code J) is a little higher output mostly due to the intake not having an egr valve in the middle underneath the air filter. Lots of good info on these motors, not big power houses but dependable and economical for sure. Sent from atop the porcelain throne.

Dammit.... Double post