feerocknok

My PIAA Extreme Whites are bright as hell on my truck! I wonder if yours are darker because of the less reflecting housing or if your wires are burnt up or something.

Pretty sure CWLongshot put this in his rig. 1st one didn't work right, 2nd one did or something like that. Check out his 20 page build thread in the projects section, probably around page 17.

My sub rattled mine off too. Wedged paper in the cracks.

There was a guy on the Yahoo Comanche site who did it. it turned out really well. But IIRC he lost it in Hurrican Katrina. It's the link I posted on NAXJA. Heard the same thing.

Basically just have to keep the axle under the truck with some mounts, and you only need enough to hold it there. Any more and things start binding.

You can make one out of a piece of pipe with pipe caps on both ends and holes drilled for plastic fittings. Hard to describe, but it's just like a little pill that's sealed up.

Yeah, you'll end up needing different wheels or spacers so that you can get your tires out of the control arms and sway bar. Your rear tires may attempt to hit the frame as well if backspacing is not addressed.

Were you in the truck when it was weighed? Nope How much does everyone else's truck weigh? I'm feeling hefty right now.

2.5/auto/4x4/lwb bench seat stereo with sub spare tire steel wheels larger gas tank (2/3 full) slightly heavier rear bumper no front bumper at that weight drop-in bed liner heavier LCAs, track bar, coils manual windows and doorlocks plexi rear window 40 lbs of tools undercoating hood sound deadenor removed That's all the weight changes I can think of. My buddy rolled on the same scale after me with his '99 4.0/auto/4x4 Cherokee at 3850. I thought all MJs were fat pigs like mine, but maybe I have something wrong.

With or without a bed?

My truck weighs 4050 lbs on 31s... 2.5L, auto, 4wd, lwb... I don't think my tires, stereo, and small (10"x10"x24") toolbox weigh 800 lbs.

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=57574

jEEEEz

Ah! I was looking at Chevies and was wondering how you got a driver's side drop. 1980-1988 DTS204-2 NP208J 23 Spline front input front and rear fixed yokes shift indicator located to the left side of shift 1.75" speedo hole, left hand mount New: $856.25 Core: $350.00 http://www.drivetrain.com/transfercaseappjeep.html Core's worth $350.

I think the only other spline count is 27.

NP208 shouldn't be fixed yoke: And it's chain driven, but still strong. I'd say it's worth about what you paid and should do fine behind that 3.8 as far as power is concerned. I think yours'll be a 32 spline.

1-3/4" Energy Suspension coil spacers in front ($35 new I think?). 2" Chevy drop shackles in the back. (inexpensive as well)

Time for some matching tires and wheels, along with some paint. The decal could read "SPORTRAILER"

I'll have to take some more accurate measurements but I think all of my questions got covered. Thanks for the help on all of this. Really doesn't seem like rocket science like some people make it sound.

Excel 2007 won't support the calculator cause it can't read the formulas but I drew this up: I'll have to look over the truck some more but it should clear everything fine, or at least the idea of it will. Just going with square tubing, but, like I said, have to decide on rod ends and also coil buckets.

So basically, build the whole bracket on the axle with an almost direct frame mount?

Rear Was thinking of: Lowers: 30" long 21" from center of axle (Same as stock leaf perches) 3.5" forward from center of tube (looking sideways at the truck) straight-forward Upper: 30" long 17" from center 7.5" above center straight-forward or closer to the pumpkin going towards the frame Panhard: 3-4" of height change.

Well, all I really needed to know is if any triangulation was needed if a panhard was going to be used, and how short a link can be acceptably, to reduce on material costs and space restriction. Any thoughts?

Yup, "divide by zero" error.