airspeed

Your temp gauge may not be accurate but those engines need a minimum temp or 195 and I believe the ideal temp is 210.

I changed the plugs on my son's 96 XJ and afterwards he complained about the engine "sputtering". His OBDII was reporting a random misfire, don't remember what the code was. Turns out we broke one of the rubber boots on the plug wire and it had a dead miss on number 3 cylinder. I got a spray bottle of water and sprayed it on the plug wires while the engine was running, there it was, bright blue spark.

Yes, I had the same problem over and over. I got tired of climbing in through the passenger door, I could not open the door from the inside until it thawed out. I finally ordered a new OEM latch assembly from RockAuto, ~$102. Wow what a difference that made, works great. Next to the dual diaphragm booster upgrade this is the second best thing I have done to the old Comanche. The door closes with a very solid WHUMP, it reminds me of my wife's Lexus. It is not that clackity rattle sound that it had before. I looked close and saw that the part of the latch mechanism that catches the striker pin is covered with nylon.

A true Up Country package would have rear sway bar delete. You should be able to see that the way it is sitting.

I'm rebuilding the rear end in my son's 99 Cherokee. The rear end was making quite a grumbling noise at 35 mph, pulled the carrier bearings and sure enough the races were really pitted, I'm going to replace all (6) bearings in the center diff. and axles. I'm setting the preload on the pinion shaft bearings and it just seems too tight to me. All the bearings are pressed and seated properly and I'm in the process of collapsing the crush sleeve to reach the desired preload 15-30 in/lbs. I have a calibrated torque watch and will set it to ~20 in/lbs, that just seems like an incredible amount of preload (drag) to be on a bearing. I didn't measure the preload when I took the old diff. apart but I would guess it to be in the range of 1-3 in/lbs.

The more I look around online in the different forums and the parts available, the one I pulled out is the correct one. The cherokeeforum, jeepforum, youtube all show a bearing like the one I pulled. I'm going to take my used bearing down to the parts store and see if they can match the Torrington p/n. These axle bearings don't seem bad or worn to me, it could be a carrier bearing.

The p/n on the bearing I took out is Torrington DB-50185 and also a TXXXX

Replacing rear axle bearings and not sure which is the right one. I have one from NAPA and one from Autozone and the center bearing is the one I took out of the axle. Did I have the wrong bearing in there to start with?

I have the Dana 44 with the LSD and I like it. It is impressive what it can do in the mud and snow, tires have a lot to do with that as well. The 2.5l with the lack of power acts like traction control.

Working on my sons 99 Cherokee. This sensor is hanging loose, broke from tab under large washer up above. What is this for?

Bad fuel? Phase separation...

That could be it... It is a nice flat surfaced sensor about the size of a 50 cent piece, two wires going in the bottom.

Working on my sons 96 XJ we replaced the battery and noticed a little spring loaded sensor in the bottom of the tray. When you lift the battery up the sensor pops up at a 45 degree angle? The sensor has two wires and a connector on it. I should have taken a picture... Any body know what this is?

The plastic dip stick tube is about $14 at the auto parts store, easy to change, . Remember everything is based off the engine code on those motors. I was just thinking, if that motor ran low on oil the turbo could be done...

I would agree, the engines are very robust. The engine code is important, i.e. AEB, AWP. The engine code must be matched to the ECU.

I got hit by a car many years ago. It was not a serious injury but it gave me a wake-up call, cars and bikes don't mix very well. To be honest, I would be afraid to ride a bike with the traffic the way it is.

That's what I'm thinking... What kind of bike is that, Indian?

There is a 92 Comanche on the Denver Craigslist... It is way over priced and not that good of condition, any way I read a statement in the listing. -Fuel injector upgrade from old single port injectors to Dodge Neon four port injectors. Better fuel economy and throttle response. Is there any truth to this statement?

The 2.5 does not use a gasket between the exhaust manifold and the down pipe. The convex radius is formed into the exhaust header.

There is a support / bracket that mounts to the square exhaust flange just in front of the cat. converter. This bracket has an extension that slides into the rubber mount of the cross member. Rock auto has them but I would just check your local parts store, it is a low cost low tech part.

I have a 99 ES300, that is the best car I have ever owned. At 170k (other than wear items) the car has had (1) mechanical failure, starter motor. The engine and drive train is flawless, smooth and quiet. The quality of the paint, trim, fit and finish is much better than the standard Toyota. I have owned 31 cars over the last 47 years and it holds the top spot!

I have a 88 2.5, ax4-231.

I pulled my head off in 30 minutes. You need the wobble sockets to reach under the manifold bolts, pull the intake/exhaust over to the side and unbolt the head.

Why would this tow strap have a twist in the loop ends?

Another way to state it: Horsepower is the rate at which torque can be applied.