airspeed

To my knowledge there are no threads on the stick. I made a custom knob for my AX-4 and my sons AX-15 and I had no threads on either stick. I used a 9/16-12 NC split die, started wide open and closed it down until I had good threads.

I was so excited to show off my 2.5l electric fan install I failed to read the whole post. Now I see he has a 89 4.0, that is a different story. I don't know about the 89 but my son's 96 has a nice setup stock, mechanical/electric, two fan combo. There is a lot of engineering that goes into the factory setup.

I used a fan from 96-97 Taurus 3.8, it was amazing how well it fit to the radiator, The left side was offset about .25", I just made a couple of standoffs. The big challenge was the fan was too deep, I had to move the whole radiator mount forward about 1". I purchased the electronics from dccontrols.com, worked well.

teamcherokee sells the OEM factory insulation, I should say they had a few in stock a while back. Only one p/n for XJ / MJ. It is a bit pricy,~$70, but looks good.

I installed a Taurus 3.8L ~96-97, it works good. It is a big single two speed approx 19", it fit my 2.5 radiator almost perfect. I ordered a relay and temp probe to run the fan, don't remember where, will have to look at my receipts.

My truck was delivered new in Colorado Springs ~6500' and the emission tag under the hood states above and below 4000 feet. It is good to know I need a high altitude CPS. When I put a timing light on the engine it measures 14 degrees.

That is what the manual calls the Air Supply Hose, they are not available as new parts, I have searched high and low. Your tube over to the air cleaner box does not appear to be routed properly. The CCV (crank case ventilation) is the smaller tube on the back of the valve cover that goes to the throttle body. I found a good used one from the junk yard and carefully installed in on my valve cover, sealed the rubber elbow with RTV when I installed it.

My 88 2.5 does not have a clutch safety switch. I think it is physiological, the harder you push the clutch to the floor the harder you will twist the ingition key. My son showed me the exact same thing, you twist the key hard and, it will start in any gear.

An electrical volt meter would be considered a passive device, requires no power. The electrical system doesn't even know that they are there. Your voltage when the engine is running should not drop below ~13V.

My first guess would be the fuel filter. Under the drivers door inside the frame rail. Small set of sockets and 10 minutes of work, it would be worth a try.

Be sure to use the heavy conical washers under the bolt heads, they help with the constant expansion and contraction of the dissimilar metals, aluminum manifold and steel header. Don't over torque them.

Can you put a T-stat in backwards on a 2.5L? Would that cause it to cycle like that?

The hose coming out of the tee must lead to a oil cooler or an auxiliary oil filter. The oil sending unit should thread out of the tee. You need to hold the lower tee and thread the sending unit out. I have a picture of my setup, the tee goes to a mechanical gauge and the sending unit goes to the dash light. My 2.5 runs high oil pressure as well, ~70-80 when cold, ~30-50 warm.

I was just looking on Rock Auto and they show the IAT for 88 2.5l, but not for 87? It is under emissions, they have a good photo of it. I changed mine and it made a big difference. A bad O2 sensor can make the idle change up and down, along with a lot of other things in the fuel system.

I just connected my MityVac (vacuum tool) to the lower bleeder valve, opened the bleeder and pulled out about 4oz. and I was done. I had my son up top watching the reservoir for fluid level.

My 2.5 4x4 sat about 2-1/4" higher in the back. I put 1-3/4" spacers on the front and it looks almost level. It may be my imagination but it seems to track down the road better, really.

When I did my upgrade I left the original proportioning valve and the load leveling valve on the truck. I'm happy with the way the brakes work, from 75 mph that truck will stop fast and straight! I don't understand the different thread sizes but AutoZone had what I needed, two brake lines and one adapter. I formed the lines around a 1-1/2" socket, cut and flared the lines. Note: remember to install the threaded fitting before you flare the line, I made that mistake once.

That is Aurora Colorado. The location in the yard is TK19. U-Pull & Pay 1370 Zeno St. Auroara. Co. 80011 303-364-4221

I was over at the U-Pull & Pay in Aurora and saw a 87 Comanche with black interior, bucket seats and console. Everything was there except the right door!!! I have read on the forum that the black interior is rare, it did look unusual. This truck also had a molded lower areo kit that ran from the front wheel well to the rear wheel well, two pieces. Again the only problem, it was missing the left side. It would probably be kind of cool on a lowered street truck.

I had a similar problem on my 2.5 and found a couple of plug wires were shorted together and cross firing the cylinders. The harder you push the gas the worse the problem got, I barely got home in second gear. Move the plug wires so they are not touching each other to see if that makes a difference. Or with your engine running open your hood in the dark and take a spray bottle with water and spray the plug wires, you will see a light show.

I found a high quality double core all metal for about $212.00. This was an exact fit for my 2.5. PerformanceRadiator.com

Found a hairline crack in the lower portion of the header, see photo. On deceleration this would probably flood the O2 sensor with cold air and trigger the ECU to dump more fuel to the engine. This crack goes all the way around the pipe!! I pulled out the MIG and did a rough patch. My son want to order the Edelbrock header, $372 from AutoZone, are they any good?

You might want to look at the oil pan and cross-over pipe. I ordered a new 2.5 long block for my 88 Comanche and it came with the wrong oil pan. On my 88 Comanche the cross-over pipe goes between the oil pan and the bell housing, the pan sump is moved forward about 4". I had to change the pan and the oil sump from my old engine.

What would cause a loud backfire on a 4.0-HO when decelerating ~2500rpm. The backfire can be intermittent or a quick string of two or three together. The engine runs good under power, everything seems normal. This is my sons 96 Cherokee with about 200k on the odometer.

My 88 2.5, 3.55 gears and AX4 can get about ~18-20 in town and ~26 under ideal conditons. If I jump on I25 and try to stay up with the traffic moving 75-80 my mileage will drop to 16. At this high altitude 75-80 is pretty much full throttle, it reminds me of driving my 72 VW Bug.