Manche757

Pete, you went silent with some unresolved MJ issues. Let us know that you are not lost in a swamp in North Carolina living off water moccasin meat on your way back to Atlanta.

This is still in the planning stage. I want to have a badazz horn mounted on top of the cab of the black 87 MJ, 4.0, 5 speed shown in the pic. The pic below is what I have in mind. Still looking for 3 level horns with the longest in the middle. The one in the pic has one horn raised above the other two. I am looking for a wider look. I want the pitch of a train horn, not the higher pitch of a big rig. If possible I would like to have an additional switch right in the center of the steering column but don't know if there are two sets of contacts that can be separated or not. I would like to keep the present horn operational. The bigger issue is how to mount it. I rather not bolt it to the cab roof. The metal in the roof is probably not thick enough to handle wind at 70mph blowing against the horn over time. What I am thinking is to have a precision metal shop make a bracket to hold it. Something with a chrome finish is likely to be way too expensive. A not dull alloy might look nice. Metal painted black might be the only practical alternative. 3 inch wide flat metal that is hollow so that wire can be run to the horn. Bolted horizontal to the roll bar plates on the bottom of the truck bed. Y shape up to below the top of the bed wall meeting in the center of the cab. Then a single straight vertical strip to below the top of the cab and parallel with the back of the cab. Then have the metal curve back then forward like a cobra and not touching the top of the cab and extending about a third of the way across the cab. The horn will be bolted to top of the end which would be horizontal. It would be clearer to show a diagram of it but I don't have software for that. I think the view from the back and sides of the truck will be eye catching. Bracket to be strong enough but allowed to flex a little when stopping or starting for appearance more than necessity. I haven't found the horn I want but this pic gives an idea of what I have in mind. Looking for suggestions from metal guys - welders and fabricators. I already know it is nuts in advance.

Congratulations Krusty. Good job. I hope babe and Mom are both fine. And a proud papa too. I have a question. How did you ever manage to get that pretty woman to hang with you?

I may add a screaming truck horn on a second circuit to a MJ but don't want to do away with the stock horn. Years ago, a button attached to the horizontal bottom of the dash, was the Joe Cool thing to do. Seems amarteurish for a noble horn. Grand Cherokees from the 90's had spots on both sides of the center of the steering column to toot the horn. Most likely wired together at the top of the column. Does the MJ have two sets of contacts for the horn? If so, has anyone separated the two and run a new wire to one of them and down the steering column and through the fire wall?

Reading this thread brought back old memories. The first car I owned was a 1966 AMC that I got in 1969 at the end of my freshman year at VA Tech. At a time when GTOs, Firebirds, and Camaros blazed new, a Rambler was definitely not a sexymobile. But it did the job for the college years. It seems almost alien now, but one of the improvements was to add a radio to a car that came without one. A radio was an option. I put in a Ford radio that was too deep. To make room for it, I had to move the plastic ductwork for the defroster back. I accomplished that with a hack saw and some dryer vent hose. I bought a house carpet remant and cut pieces to fit and sewed them together with fishing line to cover the rubber floor. I had dear old Mom sew by machine, some new fabric into the seat panels. Actually it looked good and people commented. One of the changes was to replace a whimpy sounding horn. For schitz and giggles, I went to a junk yard and got a 6 volt horn out an old car and put it in the 12 volt system. Sounded like a f...ing train in a canyon.Was awesome actually, but I do not claim that was my original idea. Not sure when autos moved from 6 volt to 12 volt, 1954 I think, but jyards had cars older than that back then.

Thanks Dirty. Focus downstream from your comments. If you bought an MJ, 30 years old and 175,000 miles or more on it and have no idea how well it was taken care of, you would not run any kind of engine cleaner through it? Prior to coming to MJs, most car buyers are not buying 30 year old engines.

I thought we might have more MJ owners disclosing which type of oil they were using to get a bigger picture. Conventional, synthetic or blend. Weight and general area you are in for temperature considerations. If you haven't already and feel inclined, please post. Just a short post is great. I was surprised to find switching back and forth from conventional to synthetic and blends. Question: Am I correct in assuming no one is using any kind of engine cleaner between these changes in types of oil for fear of causing seals to leak in old engines? Or engine cleaner anytime.

Some things in life can not be improved on. I was due for some Ultimate Fighting - some rage in the cage - and missed SNL also. Nothing like a good testosterone flare up on our beloved CC. Got a thrill tonight. Thanks guys.

Take Saturday night off and go to Zosia's restaurant in Hamtramic and enjoy some good Polish food and environs.

Pete, if you are having unsolved trouble, there isn't a lot of hope for the rest of us. If you have auto transmission, you might want to reconsider reactivating cruise control. At least until some of the other issues are solved. For ZJs in the mid 90s, many owners commented that when major shifting issues occurred, the driver had activated cruise control. You can find comments by googling it. Happened to me. $1400 repair. Might be a last straw on the camels back issue but not sure the convenience of cruise control is worth the risk on ZJs. I don' tknow if there were similar issues with MJs.

mjeff, if you keep that kind of goodwill up, the CC is going to get a very good reputation. Pete M might become swell headed. Very nice offer. Stores here were kind of nutty the last few days. The hottest of commodities are bread, bottled water and peanut butter. Whole shelves stripped bare of many thing. Women in high heels carting out cases of beer. Water now flows under the place on Hatteras Island, NC that I stayed in last weekend.

How many miles on each truck? If you are looking for a nice ride with less work, and costs, go with the 90 that is in good condition. Like playing the odds at the gambling casino. If you are looking to spend a lot of money and enjoy getting down and dirty creating your masterpiece, then go for the 92. Isn't it great to have choices? There are too many MJs still rolling to boost up the values, but as far as vehicles go scarcities boost value. That said, the 92 and 86 (even with the funky engine) may likely become the high ticket ones in (many) years to come. Few MJs are listed above $12,000 or so even when dolled up. Decent ones in decent shape still can be found for less than $10,000. The highest list price I have seen on a restored MJ was $24,000 but all the others fixed up were not above the low teens. A friend listed a Kaiser J series pick up for more than $75K but he had more than that in it. Seal up the bottom of the 92, throw a tarp over it and find it in 10 years. It will likely appreciate more than money in a savings account at the bank. And more than 87 to 91s. But then there is the monster in the room. Gotta make the wife happy. Sell the 92 to one of the CC deep pocket preservationist guys for a profit. Wife will be happy and you have some bucks to make the 90 pretty.

thunderously good! hang on

Divitha, that is some stunning mileage on your MJs. A lot of driving. You put most of that on them youself?

I live in Viginia Beach, right on the Atlantic ocean for those that don't know. The highest natural point is 88ft above sea level. Most areas are not near fhat. I was at the southern end of Hatteras Island over this past weekend. The shift of Florence south is good for us but bad for those south of here. Multiple people will die in this storm.

DirtyComa, aren't you ever going to have an opinion about anything? Your comments made me curious about the metalurgy going on with zinc. I searched for the melting point of zinc. 787.2F. 419.5C. Since zinc is a primary metal and not an alloy those should be exact, probably at sea level. Next, I checked to see how hot it gets inside an engine, a less exact number. 600C, 1128.2F was the lowest I found. Others posted 1800-2500C or 3,272F-4,532F which must be wrong. Lets go with 600C. Steel melts at 1370C. 2500F. The melting point for iron is higher. Steel is an alloy with iron as it comes out of the ground as the primary element so the melting point may vary a little. With that temperature differnce from the melting point for zinc, melting could occur. Whether some plating of zinc to steel could occur, i can honestly state that I do not know.

What can you tell at 2000 miles?

What good things was zinc thought to do? Metalurgical reaction of some sort?

I am surprised to learn some are switching back and forth from conventional to synthetic (or blend) and back freely. Are there no compatibility issues that gum up? I assume no cleaner is being used in between for fear of damaging seals on old engines? I am also surprised at 50 weight oil being used in Canada, even if blended with lower viscosites. No one commenting on conventional oils being paraffin or asphalt based? When posting what you are using, it is meaningful if you give general location. If more of you post what you are using, there will be better information for us all.

Pete M. See above. Alias for Peter Manche JeePandovitch

Thanks Pete and the others that make this site work for all of us. Solving mechanical issues. Gathering thoughts and suggestions for customizing projects. And some good old fashion kick azz conversations too.

I bought a truck based solely on pictures and flew from Virginia Beach, VA to Texas and drove more than 1200 miles home in July 3 years ago. The only trouble I had was the rider side windshield leaked and there multiple major rain storms. Lake front property on the rider side floor. Sun would come out and evaporate the pond away until the next rain. No mechanical malfunctions. My advice is to take only what you could put in a backpack in case you break down on the side of the road and need to catch a ride to the nearest town. I figured there was a good chance I would break down and I didn't want to leave anything tempting in the truck. I did not know the truck and you have the advantage that you know yours. I had counted on using a GPS to get home and did not learn until I picked up the truck that the cigarette lighter did not work. If you do not know the way, take a map. Gogmo, if you are in the Jasper National Park / Lake Bankff area, you live in the prettiest place on the continent. You should be inviting allllllll your CC friends to come for a visit.

I think it would be enlightening to find out what CC members are putting in their Comanches. Just a shared survey of sorts. Not so much about the finer theories on motor oil, but more about what we are actually using. Someone in Florida is likely using something different that someone in Minnesota. So if you would, post like this: 10-30, conventional, Virginia If you use something different in the winter, note that. For CA, indicate SoCal or NorCal.

Fluid is low but showing. Should I assume DOT 3 is in the system and that is what I should add? From another old thread After reading the thread and comments, if either the master clutch cylinder or the slave needs to be replaced,both should be replaced along with the connecting line? Are the suggestions in the 2012 thread still recommended? Plates too? Other threads say replace rear main seals and more. Seems like to be an expanding project