1stDeuce

Butt Dyno explained: Your butt dyno sits directly on your wallet, and roughly measures how far your butt is pushed into the seat. As your wallet thins, your butt goes further into the seat, and it's associated "dyno" detects it as better performance. :) When it comes to stuff like building engines, there is a lot of pride on the line. People spend a LOT of money, and always want to justify that expense. I'm no expert, nor am I claiming to be, but I know what I know. I've built several engines that are still going strong. I worked in Vehicle Development at Jeep when they actually put together a 4.5L stroker to see how it did in a TJ Unlimited, and they pushed to get it a trial in a Dakota. It was a stock 4.0l, with a 258 crank and rods, and that's it. I made a tweak to pull out 2° of timing so it would run on regular without ping, but aside from that, It ran awesome. Unfortunately, the Powertrain group wanted the 4.0L to DIE, not to live on, and impact said absolutely no to the straight six in a Dakota, so that was the end. If you are looking to make a very low budget stroker that's minimally fussy and will run forever while making quite a bit more power than the 4.0L, then the recipe is out there, and proven, and it's pretty cheap to do. Good luck with your builds, whether they're armchair or actual! :)

If that nipple is still open, that's a pretty good vacuum leak. That would possibly give you a lean stumble at idle... You need to at least cap it if you don't have the connector hose.

Yup, the 12 weight crank needs a 10mm spacer to tighten the balancer on all the way. Or you can have whatever shop does the crank take 10mm off the snout. As for the benefit of the heavy crank, it depends on your transmission. With an auto, you won't be able to tell the difference, and there really is no benefit. With a manual, it'll be better equipped to idle over things without stalling with the heavier crank, and it'll also smooth out the power delivery at low RPM's. Heavier flywheels do the same thing, which is to smooth out the low speed torque delivery by being a giant mass damper. From a seat of the pants performance perspective (0-60mph), or even dyno hp and torque, there is pretty much zero difference. I'm hoping to start a stroker project too soon for my TJ. (2003 engine in a '98) I have two 12 weight cranks to choose from, and I'll be getting rid of the 0331 head in favor of either a 0630 or 7120 for better exhaust flow. Aside from hearing that everyone loved the Mopar purple cam, I can't find much good on aftermarket cams. Lots of guys saying the higher lift cams don't last because the lobes are narrow and we have no zinc in oil anymore. Plus most of them require different valve springs and keepers, plus machining on the head to use it depending on which ones you go with... I've read many places that for a daily driver/trail rig, you may as well keep the stock cam, and just advance it 4°. Because I have a newer engine, there is no cam pin to drill out for an offset bushing, so my only solution is an offset crank key, which can provide 4° at the crank, but that's only a 2° cam timing change. :( Well, 2° is better than nothing, so that what my Jeep is getting. And you advance the cam for low end torque, you retard it for HP. :) And 8° of advance is a LOT. The most I've seen suggested was 4°. (Aside from a very misleading thread on Jeep Strokers that was actually talking about a simulation program, not the real world...) I already have new Silvolite Hypereutectic pistons, as there were piston skirt failures in some of the later 4.0's, or I'd have re-used the stock pistons. You use the 258 rods if you want to go that route. If you want to spend big $$, then you can buy special pistons and use the longer 4.0L rods, but you don't gain that much on a daily driver, aside from a lower compression ratio allowing regular gas. SBEC engines at low elevation like a little fuel pressure increase, JTEC engines seem to do fine without at all elevations. At altitude, you don't even have to mess with fuel pressure on SBEC. You'll probably have to run mid-grade lower than ~6k feet because of the bump in CR. Above 6k, you'll probably be fine, even on regular. Keep us posted!! Chris

I knew there was a tool, but I'm enough of a tool to get the job down once. Scratch that - twice, now... I will probably buy one if I have to do it again. :) With the key not in "lock", the tumblers are kept from moving too far by the barrel that surrounds them. For the key to come out, there has to be a lot of slop either between the tumblers and barrel, or between the key and the tumblers. Or both. Old ignitions usually wear both to the point that the key can be inserted and removed at will, and eventually, the tumblers will wear to the point that you don't even need a key. Having a key with a profile that's fairly gentle, with no large and narrow points makes it happen faster. Having one key that's cut a little deeper from both side would also help with removal, but also make the tumblers catch and drag a bit when you use that key, which causes more wear, and makes it even easier to just yank the key...

BTW, to end all rumors, the double sided key uses BOTH sides of the key to run the tumblers. Every other tumbler is spring loaded from the opposite direction. This is true of both the door cylinders and the ignition cylinder. :)

Ok, no more guessing on the ignition cylinder. I Just removed the GM style cylinder from my '86 and replaced it with a Standard US211L ignition lock cylinder (with double sided keys). It was a direct swap with ZERO issues. The only difference is that the original GM style cylinder was retained by a T20 torx head bolt, while the new Standard cylinder has a spring loaded clip that holds it in place. The slot for the spring clip is already in the column, you just can't put the bolt back in. The Standard cylinder even uses the same tumblers that all the later Chrysler Ignition cylinders use, so it's really easy to re-key it to fit another key. The column is the same for '86-91 trucks, which basically means the column is interchangeable from '86 up through the end, as long as you don't mind the two sided key in your earlier truck. I don't know if the hole for the torx bolt exists in the later columns or not, so it might not be possible to downgrade a newer column to the older style cylinder. But this definitely fixes the issue of newer doors on an older truck... Just switch the ignition to a new style double sided key, and one key fits all!! I even got a glove box latch from the JY and re-keyed it! Easy-peasy! (If you can get that dang little circle clip off the steering shaft, that is!! :)

It's pretty easy to re-key the cylinder once you have it out. I've done several now, so I have a decent selection of tumblers for doors and ignition. (They're not the same.) And if I'm missing a number that I otherwise need, I just leave it out. Even with a few missing, the chances of someone having a key that lines up the remainders is slim. I don't think thieves even try a key to see if it works, so as long as it doesn't just turn free, you're good, right? :) Missing tumblers don't stop the cylinder from turning... Take them all out and any key will work. Or no key at all. :) Chris

Two ratchet straps and two pieces of C-channel. 2x4's would work just as well. :) I'm only driving it around the yard like this... Driving down the road would require something a bit more involved... Chris

I'd bet there's nothing wrong with your new trans. 3550's don't generally have problems "popping out of gear", but body lifted TJ's do. :) NV3550's also don't have a nut holding 5th gear on... That's a NV4500 problem, and for the most part only when used behind a diesel. I was a vehicle development engineer on the Wrangler/XJ programs at Jeep when the switch from AX15 to 3550 happened, so here's my take... Given the choice of NV3550 vs. AX15, it's a wash. The 3550 has a bit more torque capacity. (the NV3500 was used by GM behind the 4.8 into the 2000's, and by Chrysler behind the 5.2 and 4.7L in Dakotas.) The 3550 is just a 3500 with a removable bellhousing. The 3550 also has an OD ratio more suited to Jeeps. (Not as deep as the AX-15 OD ratio.) It also has better synchros on 1st through 3rd gear compared to the AX15. Unfortunately, neither of them are easy to rebuild. My only real beef with the 3550 is it's fairly tall reverse ratio. I find that even with 4.10's in my Jeep and 33" tires, I constantly slip the clutch or lug the engine, especially turning around offroad. Not that we're talking about it, but I wish they both had the reverse ratio that the AX-5 in my Comanche has!!! VERY nice for trail use!! The OD ratio is better for Jeeps on the 3550 IMO. OD on the AX15 is a little too tall, just like on most auto transmissions. First is a little lower than an AX15, but not hardly enough to notice in my experience. The 3550 shifts much better than the AX5 or AX15. Unfortunately, there's a downside to smoother and tighter shifting... The slop that makes an AX5 or AX15 easy to match-shift isn't present in the 3550, so match shifting a 3550 is not so easy. It can be done, but requires a LOT more finesse than just pulling lightly on the stick until it drops in. (Hey, I get tired of stepping on the clutch, and in low range, I can match shift an AX all day with zero grinding... Not so with a 3550...) The 3550 is also not tolerant to running standard 85/90wt unless it's been rebuilt using bronze shift cones. The sulfer in normal 85/90 will soften the friction material used in the OE shift cones. You can run Synthetic 75/90 with no problems, or the standard "synchromesh" fluid, which I believe is ~30wt. (ATF is too light!) Some 3550's will rattle a little bit in in neutral and in gear, and Jeeps that came with them have a t-case damper to quiet the in-gear rattle. I don't have a damper, so I run one quart of 75W90 synthetic, and then top off with synchromesh. 75,000 miles and counting, no problems, and no rattle. FWIW, the NSG370 6-speed has a deeper 1st at 4.5, but a fairly shallow OD, comparable to the AX5 at ~.84. It also has a better reverse at 4.06 vs. 3550 at 3.57. The 370 works better for taller axle gears, in that it will make 3.73's feel like 4.10's would feel with an AX15/3550. In MI, I got tired of shifting a 6-speed in a 4.0l, where you just don't need the close gear spacing that it offers. I frequently shifted 1-2-4-6... Now that I live here in the mountains, I think I'd appreciate the 370 more, but they're not terribly easy to come by, so I'll live with my 3550. :) Chris BTW, there's a great comparison of ratios between Jeep transmissions in the very first post here: http://www.wranglerforum.com/f210/ax-5-v-ax-15-v-nv3550-v-nsg370-gear-ratio-comparison-77373.html Try to enjoy whatever transmission you all have!! :) Chris

The GMC key does fit in the Jeep, but the GMC doesn't like the Jeep key... I suppose I could just make them all use the GMC pattern, and then one key would fit them all... I found an article online that suggested the one-key style cylinder will go in the older column, but that the retention is different... I'm going to check it out. C

Actually, the ignition and doors use most of the same area of the key on the single key vehicles. Sometimes the door cylinders have one or two tumblers less than the ignition, but they don't use completely different areas of the key. As for the GM style setup, does anyone know if it's possible to put a '91-94 single key style cylinder into an '86-90 column? I put newer doors on our Comanche, and re-keyed the new door cylinders to match my TJ key, but I'd like to follow suit with the ignition key as well, so one key works everything in both of our jeeps. Doing the same with our two GMC trucks... Going to be so nice. :) I'm hoping I don't need to find a '91-94 column, as they're fairly rare it seems... Looks like Jeep Driver thinks no... If nobody can say for sure, I guess a trip to the auto parts store to do a comparison is in my future... Thanks!

I didn't read that other thread bit the differential pressure switch that you are talking about only activates if there is pressure in one circuit and none in the other. With both bleeders open, you won't build pressure in either circuit, so no light... if you leave the rear bleeder closed for the brake apply, then the light will come on like it is supposed to... then you open the rear bleeder... How are your brakes working anyway? Hope you are driving the truck by now!! :)

Well, I tried... :)

Well, if you can do some fab work for mounts, go for it! Swap the whole driveline if it's 4wd. You may find that it'll still overheat if you work it, but a thick core aluminum radiator might help. Or do some work on the radiator mount and run a wide 4.0L radiator. If you've got the whole truck, and it runs, why would you even consider putting a carb on it?? The TBI harness is almost stand-alone already if I recall correctly. You just need to clean out a few extra wires and hook up the Comanche connections for power, oil and temp, and charge... It's NOT that hard, and the TBI 4.3's are torquey little engines that run great, so it's time well spent. :)

The link won't work in two weeks, but do a search for "6 pin weatherpack" and you'll get a page of results. I've purchased from Performance Plus in Charlotte NC and they were very good. You are supposed to use special crimpers, but I just did some squashing and soldered them before I had a set. No problems.

I've said it before and I'll say it again... air in the lines or "bad" bleeding does not, cannot cause the brakes to lock... you have or had something else going on...

but for the price of that piece i can buy all the square tubing for a hitch... they sell them at rural king or tractor supply for like $15. that was my thing,...trying to keep cost as low as possible to help everybody out. a little bit, and i mean just a little bit, of filing and the ball slips right in. Hey Kursty, awesome product!! Per the above, check with your steel supplier... You should be able to get whole lengths (20-24') of 2-1/2" x 2-1/2" x .238" "Flash Removed" A500 tube. Cut that to short lengths for the reciever instead of using standard 2-1/2 square that you're using now. It is a bit more expensive than standard tubing, but the price difference when only using it for the 6" long reciever shouldn't add much to the overall cost, and hitches would fit much better... The "Flash Removed" tubing is actually made just for receivers, so the ID is slightly over 2" and the corners are a little tighter. Even the solid shank hitches fit! :)

'86 Jeep Comanche X 4x4 (Longbox) 2.8L / AX-5 (5speed) / NP207 / D30 / D35 w/Factory 4.10 gearing Built September 1985 Original CO truck as far as I know. Location as of 11/2015: Farmington, NM Currently undergoing a "Reman" program in preparation for daily driver status and weekend camping/exploring rig. (Build Thread on ExPo) The 225k mi 2.8L was dying when I bought the truck, so I put a Fuel Injected Camaro 3.4L in it's place. Still running the AX5 for now... I have a NV3550 and NP242 t-case for it eventually, but I'll miss the low reverse gearing of the AX-5. Painted desert sand (Rustoleum!) and interior changed from red to gray, along with some other updates. Running 16x6 steel wheels (From Brazil!) and 235/85R16 Hercules Terra Trac II tires

My '86 originally had the "tow mirrors". And no 44. :( But it does have factory 4.10 gears, so I've got that going for me... which is nice... :)

It's only "hacked up" if you use scotch locks... :) Use good quality shrink/glue sytle butt connectors and you'll never have a problem. Even HF sells them cheap now, so there's no excuse for using old style non-shink open connectors on ANYTHING. Tape it all up good, and run the new wiring in some loom too, and never look back. Or... You can buy the 6-way Weatherpac connector our trucks use at the left taillight on Ebay for $7. Then make a plug-and-play harness yourself. Wouldn't be that difficult. I'd be doing that if my harness wasn't already in need of repar thanks to some jack-rod using scotch locks 20 years ago...

On a 4wd, or a later 2wd that used a unit bearing like the 4wd's, the hub nut can't really be tightened enough to keep the hub from spinning freely. I pretty much max them out with an impact, so I don't think that's your problem... On an early 2wd truck with an actual spindle, like a trailer or old muscle car, the nut doesn't get "tightened" per se, but rather all the slop gets removed by hand tightening only, then you back it off one flat or so. But your truck is 4wd, so that's not your issue. Don't mess with it. I still say the first thing you should do is loosen a bleed screw to see if that relieves pressure and frees up the brakes. If that fixes it, something is wrong with your '96 parts, or the way they're installed, and the piston in the master isn't being allowed to retract fully, which will trap some residual pressure in the front system. (Did you separate them, or did they come together, and get installed that way?) There's no way I can think of to bleed brakes wrong that will make them lock up... You have something else going on, and a drive may not fix it at all. I do recall that if you put post-99 or 00 rotors on a pre-99 XJ/TJ/ZJ, you'll get contact between the rotor and something, and it'll seem locked, and make awful sounds when you drive. The wrong rotors are full cast, while the correct ones should have a thin (1/8") stamped hat section. Of course, it's possible aftermarket rotors may be full cast now for even the older trucks... C

I found info both ways, but I'm betting Crash is right, and not all were LSD... I did find several posts suggesting that experience shows that most if not all of the Explorer axles with 4.10 gears have the LSD though... Evidently there's a door tag that will say D2 for 4.10 with LSD and D4 for 3.73 with LSD under the "axle" section. If you read the tag on the axle, it should say 4L10 or 3L73, if it's still there... As far as tires fitting, Crash is again correct, in that you won't have fit problems unless you're running really wide tires on stock wheels. What I'm saying is that the track width is about an inch narrower than our front D30, and the rear body of a Comanche is wider than the front already, so you'll probably want to run spacers so your truck doesn't look like the the rear axle is a lot narrower than the front. (It's really obvious on my truck because I'm running really skinny wheels and tires...) When I said conversion yoke, I was referring to what Crash calls a flange adapter. I found an article that gave the u-joint to axle center distance for the 35 and 8.8, and it's within an eighth of an inch, so no driveshaft shortening should be necessary... Evidently the Explorer spring plates have shock mount built in, but not the kind that will work with our shock mounting setup... Most people cut it off an weld new shock mounts onto the axle, so you'll need those too... Guess an 8.8 conversion is in my MJ's future... I know the 225k mi D35 is tired, and though it has 4.10 gears, it's open, so for the price of a new LSD and bearings I can just get an 8.8 from the JY and and have a stronger axle, LSD, and disc brakes. Really the only downside is that it has 7/8" less clearance under the pumpkin than my D35, but I'll live. :)

I used to lift my full frame S-10 like that... And the doors got hard to open. And that's a full frame truck... The forward arms need to be under the control arm brackets ideally... But I wouldn't worry. Generally there's a little flex, and if your doors were hard to open, it at least means your door hingers are probably tight. :)

It might help if you put your location in your signature. That way anyone local might be able to give you a little direction and help, and lay eyes on your problem... or join a 4wd club, or car club and get help that way... You've already learned an important wiring lesson the hard way, and the curve is VERY steep if you keep learning things by doing it wrong first... :) Nobody was born with the knowledge of any of this stuff, it's all learned. You just need to find someone who can help you quickly solve this problem, and it's not going to be done at a keyboard... Good Luck!!

The distribution valve and all plumbing is compeltely stock looking to me. :) Try putting a tire on and see if you can turn it... Disc brakes drag some, and you may not be able to spin the rotor by hand, especially if the caliper is a little sticky, per Eagle's suggestion... If you still can't, then loosen a bleed screw. That should relieve any pressure in the front brake circuit. If the brake is still difficult to turn, you have a stuck caliper. (Or two...) If loosening the bleed screw releases fluid and pressure, and frees the brakes, then your brake pedal is somehow pressing on the booster at all times, and not allowing the MC to fully retract... Did you put in the 1/4" spacer that the XJ used? Not sure if there's a problem with that on an '89 or not, but it can be critical on some years I think... If it does turn out that this is a problem, you might be able to use washers stacked on the booster mounting studs to approximate the spacer. ?? I haven't seen/done this conversion, so I'm gessing there... Chris