zomeizter

Reverse upgrade=Downgrade dude, no carb could be as accurate as FI. If you need a new part but it's too pricey, maybe try a used replacement for less?

^^this^^

I have one laying around already removed if you don't end up with one from someone else Let's get it to me, what you need?

You can have mine when I remove mine, I'm a lot closer to NM than Chris lol Nice!

can i have the rod to your hsv when you remove it?

well now I know I got at least one good component on my 86, the ax5. As far as the 2.8 goes, I grew up with these damn engines and I know that if you maintain them well, they will last a good long life. Mine is a fairly "fresh" 2.8L off a late 80s Camaro. If and when it dies, I will go 3.4L or 5.7L SBC...

Them are pretty sexy looking there Pete, that's the route I'm going but I will connect the tubes on the inside of the frame with a continuous plate all along the frame, I like overkill :D

Can you elaborate on this setup a little more? I am very intrigued. Sure, the fan assembly is off a 95ish T-bird/Cougar with either v6 or v8 motor, the Volvo relay I got from a mid 90s sedan like the 740 series, and the fan switch is a Sorensen xx555, I can get ya more accurate info and pix later on...

I'm about to do away with the Flex fan on my truck, but I'm doing the "el cheapo" version: Volvo two-speed relay, T-bird two-speed fan assembly and 212 degree fan swicth. Have this setup on my K5 and works extremely well.

The Hella housings use halogen H4 bulbs. What are you using? Halogen sealed beams? I have the 7" round LED Truck-Lites on my JK and they are great. So I tried the 200mm rectangular Truck-Lites on the MJ and was not impressed. Far less light output than the round ones. I also tried some GE Nighthawk LEDs and they were less than stellar also. I think it's more difficult to get a good light pattern with the rectangular housing. So I went back to the Hella e-codes. Yes, halogen sealed beams is what my MJ sports...

Exactly. Totally doing this, but I just may skip the Hella housings for now, the halogens are adequate for my night driving, carry on...

So in essence, using the supplemental harness you all speak of, means that the original H/L wiring is only used to drive the relays which deliver the higher current to the lamps, correct?

nice work there bud, this is on my list of "upgrades" for my 'manche in the near future, keep up the great work...

Works great too, make sure you get the lifetime HD one, I paid 20 bucks for it.

my COMANCHE had a intermittently failing starter relay for a while and I decided to replace it. Hit my local parts hub and I really did not like the 60 dollar price of it so I decided to "upgrade" to a heavy duty Ford relay, one for a 99 Expo to be specific. Well, after cleaning and replacing some terminals, I hooked it all up and was even able to use the original mounting hardware on some existing holes on the inner fender, pix below. Input welcome.

you rock Lee & Pete, all my questions have been answered.

I will be doing a lift on my MJ pretty soon but I'd like to do so by spending the least amount of dough, it's pretty scarce nowadays. Once I do the rear SOA, I figure the lift will equal the size of the axle tubes and the thickness of the spring pack, my question is, what do I have to do to the front to match this "el-cheapo" lift at the rear?

Funny you say that, I guess my conversion went very well because my cab does become an "ice box". I have to keep the blower fan on low, even in stop and go traffic in town. All new parts and flushing make a big difference...

Interesting stuff here, too bad I just completed my retro to 134a, update us with how that stuff works out...

Got it! The problem was in the service valves, I backed them out all the way which caused the service ports to be blocked off, hence the inability for the refrigerant to enter the system. Nice and cold is the air out the vents now, which makes this Beaner very happy and my work commute much enjoyable in this hellish heat. If anyone cares, total oil charge was 6oz and refrigerant charge was 1.8 lbs. Pressure readings while in operation are 175 psi on the high side and 30 on the low side, peace.

I think I figured it out, I have the service valves blocked off, will verify this afternoon, standby gents...

When I got this thing, it had spun a bearing and was noisy but soon after I bought a 2.8L HO out of a Camaro with a fresh rebuid for dirt cheap so I had to go with that setup. If I hadn't scored this motor I would have transplanted a 4.3L or a SBC drivetrain. It runs beautifully now and I will keep it this way till the ghost is released. Now back to the A/C on this truck, I thought all was well after the retrofit but something has failed and I think it's the expansion valve, here's what's happening. Once I had all the right fittings, I performed an evacuation and proceeded to add the refrigerant but it would not take it for some reason. I had the compressor going but both high and low pressure gages read at a steady 100 psi and the air out the vents was a little cool, nothing like the first time I charged it. When I replaced the o-rings throughout the system I came accross some kind of check valves in the solid line going to the top of the receiver/drier. I proceeded to change the o-rings on these valve looking things and reinstalled them. Well, after the issue with the refrigerant not wanting to get sucked in the system, I went ahead and opened up the solid line fittings where the check valves are and noticed there was a lot of pressure being released from both sides around such valves. After I got the lines disconnected, I took the valves out and connected the line back up without the check valve thingies. Again I performed an evac and tried to charge the system thinking those valves were the culprit but the refrigerant will not go in, as soon as I press charge on the charging station the gages jump to 100 psi and that's all I get, only about 0.15 lb of refrigerant goes in. I had to come home from work and stop the diagnosis, I will remove the new suspect expansion valve and install the old one to see if that's causing this problem, will report results tomorrow night, peace...

2.8L

Thanks Stroker, unfortunately the original port caps were gone and I had a hard time finding one to seal off the high side, but after an hour of searching I found a 90 degree high side swivel adapter with a shrader valve at O'reilys, (in case someone needs one it is P/N 59986) got her dun!

Hello all, I have a slight issue completing the A/C conversion on my 86 MJ. It is a factory equipped R12 system which I have completely flushed out of any residual oil from all components. I have installed a rebuilt compressor, new accumulator/drier, new expansion valve and replaced every o-ring throughout. The problem lies on one of the fittings, the high side to be exact. I had no problem on the low side since this has a shrader valve to keep the refrigerant in when I remove the charge hose from it, but the conversion fitting for the high side lacks this shrader valve, which causes the refrigerant to escape if I remove the high side charging hose. Does anyone know where to acquire a high side conversion fitting with a shrader valve? Is there a different way to go around this issue? BTW, when I charged the system and had it going, icy cold air was coming out of the vents.