Newton

I have tried removing the bleeder screws and even the disconnected the brake line itself from the caliper to see if it will gravity bleed itself but still nothing Did you try from the prop valve itself? might be clogged... Good point. If you look at the cut-away of the XJ proportioning valve in my photo, there's a plunger inside with a spring around it and a rubber washer or cup on the end inside the body of the valve. Some XJ guys remove that cup because it has a tendency to get clogged and causes the rear brakes to stop working. You should not remove it if used in an MJ, because removing it defeats the proportioning function, but cleaning it and ensuring that the plunger moves freely might help. However, I believe Newton posted that he's using an XJ valve body with ZJ internals. I'm not sure what tat means, but it seems to imply that the thing has been opened up and that the plunger should be clean. correct eagle the spring and stem inside has been replaced with zj ones for correct fluid pressure for the disk brake and don't think its clogged i have fluid going to the front just not the rear might be a clogged line trying to narrow it down

I have tried removing the bleeder screws and even the disconnected the brake line itself from the caliper to see if it will gravity bleed itself but still nothing

The way I was taught to do it is for the helper to pump the brakes SLOWLY two or three times, then while the peddle is UP you open the bleeder and the helper depresses the peddle SLOWLY, and holds it down until you have closed the bleeder. Then repeat, until you get clear brake fluid and no bubbles from the bleeder. If the peddle is held down when you open the bleeder, then when the peddle is released it's going to suck air in through the bleeder. You're just fighting yourself. And the helper has to pump the peddle slowly, because rapid pumping just aerates the fluid. Kool I'm going to try your method and see if that works

have someone pump the brake and hold while i open nipple to release air.. close nipple and repeat....

I'm sorry if I didn't explain my situation properly..but to answer ur question yes xj valve is up front and necessary plumbing done correctly.. Exactly as Eagle stated above. I asked that previously, and the OP's reply is highlighted. So I ASSumed this was done. Maybe not.......... guys there is no height sensing valve in rear... have a single line from the xj prop valve in the fron directly to the flex hose in the rear

Thanks i'll check it out

I'm sorry if I didn't explain my situation properly..but to answer ur question yes xj valve is up front and necessary plumbing done correctly..When you put in the zj plunger(internals) in the prop valve did you bleed it? No i didnt know i had to bleed it most of information i gather just said g ahead and bleed the brakes as usual did not say i had to bleed the prop valve..is the a write up on how to bleed the prop valve?

I'm sorry if I didn't explain my situation properly..but to answer ur question yes xj valve is up front and necessary plumbing done correctly..

load sensing valve in the rear was removed can't use the mj load sensing valve with the xj prop valve i don't think ...just can't seem to get fluid to the rear wheels to bleed ..ordered a brake bleeder kit off ebay with vaccuum pump i'm gonna give it a go any other ideas welcome..

swapped rear axle for a c 8.25 with disc upgrade also have a xj prop valve with zj internals trying to bleed but can't get any fluid to the rear no matter how much i pump tried gravity no luck starting from the furthest away from the master cylinder fist... is there a different procedure to bleed this setup?

http://comancheclub.com/topic/37727-how-to-post-pictures/

ok i will test tomorrow thanks

had my fuel tank sitting for a while as i worked on the comanche now that i put it back in the truck doesnt want to start ..it started after a good few swings but then shut off notice it was gettting any gas when i pressed on the accelerator after it shut off hasnt started since checked the pump i can hear it priming took the fuel rail out its not clogged or anything thinking it might be the injectors? after the pump is primed when i turn the ignition on and off like 2 times i won't hear it prime again like theres too much pressure in the line maybe the pump is bad?..any ideas?

looking good :thumbsup:

Thanks guys

Front end done...Drilled and slotted rotors..HD steering stabilizer..Heavy duty tie rod..heavy duty track bar with ball joint elimination.. sway bar links quick disconnects..Rugged Ridge diff cover..

Thanks appreciate it. :thumbsup:

Nice Work!! :thumbsup:

thanks for the info.....

sounds good.....how difficult is it to put in a 97+ engine in there do u have a complete 97+ swap like dash and everything or just the engine alone?

Beautiful truck!

Thanks bro :thumbsup:

Never seen that one lol its been there all along

The cheapest I seen this thing anywhere else is $108 from stockwiseauto.com advanceautoparts has it for $185.. Great find Shelbyluvv I'm ordering a spare now you can even use your discount code to get $0.23 off ..someone at rockauto must have had one too many drinks..

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