Newton

Ok i'll try that ..thanks

Yes still using all the renix stuff didnt have any overheating issues with the old renix engine all i did was swap out the long block everything else is the same so I'm guessing the issue might be air trapped in the system since i didnt really do any burping procedure just poured coolant run it for a little bit and topped it off

Recently did a renix into HO swap Noticed temperature fluctuating thinking might need to burp the system properly as i didnt drill a hole for the temperature sender in the back of the head is there any other procedure to burping system other than the sending unit location in the back of the head?

Thank Cruiser..upon further inspection i noticed this part was broken i'm guessing this is part of the actuator rod.. or is it something else and how do i remove it and replace it and can i get that part new or do i have to pull it from the junk yard...also this plastic piece fell out from around the turn signal switch area while i was removing that pastic around the column can some tell me where it goes ?

Key switch spinning free no clicking...not staring just stuck with ignition on thought it was key cylinder put in a brand new cylinder still same problem please help

Then I would either rebuild the original engine to stock specs, or take the XJ engine, replace the main and rod bearings, and drop that in. The idea of a stroker engine is attractive, but it can't be done on the cheap. There are subtle differences between the 4.0L and 4.2L engines. You obviously can't use stock 4.0L pistons with a 4.2L crank, so you have to decide if you want to use the skinnier 4.2L connecting rods or the stronger 4.0L connecting rods, then you have to source pistons that will work with whatever rods you choose to get the right deck height. There may be aftermarket pistons available today that will work, but when I looked into it a number of years ago the available combinations resulted in overly high compression ratio, which meant running premium-grade gas AND having to be very careful about "quench." For me it wasn't worth it. Long block meaning block and head right?..also can I use the one from my 2000 parts Xj and bolt on all Renix components? http://cruiser54.com/?p=100 Decided i will swap in the xj engine has less than 100k running on there so i will just skip changing the bearings and put that money towards rebuilding the original engine if anything were to happen later down the line i'l swap back in the original...i was taking a look at cruiser's post on the renix into ho swap and everything seems to be pretty straight forward except the distributor indexing thingy is there a video out there on it and elaborate a little more on why i have to do it last time i took out the distributor i just dropped it back in and seemed to work fine or so i thought??.. :dunno:

Long block meaning block and head right?..also can I use the one from my 2000 parts Xj and bolt on all Renix components?

Definately wanna get it running eagle asap but if i'm able to to do that on a cheap and gain a little more power i don't mind..also i think the 4.0 has enough power for me and don't mind if i have to leave it stock...just wanna get it back on the road and i agree with u big66440 i starting to question that friendship

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Ok need some advice guys...my engine picked up a knock after my drunk friend revved it very very hard like floored the gas pedal for a good couple seconds...after that i lost power like it was running on 5 cylinders and when i start the truck it would turn over fine and then after it starts would hear a very loud grinding noise for like 3 seconds then go away but would hear a light knocking sound coming from the engine was hoping it was my flex plate getting loose but with my luck after i dropped the transmission and checked it ..flex plate seems fine...so anyone have an idea what damage i'm faced with?... i have a 4.0 sitting in a parts xj only block and head intact no intake exhaust nothing just block and head...can i use anything from that engine like the block or head or something for my renix..or do i have to rebuild my engine and or upgrades...stroker?...v8?...ls?... what you guys think? what are my options?

Welcome anytime bro..glad u like it

My Oil pressure switch was leaking oil so decided to upgrade to a sending unit with gauge since i still have a dummy cluster and and had no way of monitoring oil pressure wasnt even certain that stupid oil light even worked on my cluster ..anyway went with the glow shift oil pressure gauge which comes with the sending unit which is a direct bolt on ..installation was a breeze and within half an hour no more leaks and a nice gauge with switchable backlight colors to match your dash lights..now i can keep an eye on my oil pressure.

Thanks Man.. glad you like my mj.. all the best with your build

I put maxi- frig r12a refridgerant in my stock r12 system..i got off eBay its both r12/134a compatible been almost a year now no problems.. $80 for 2 cans of refridgerant 1 oil charge and one leak stop which I wouldn't advise to use plus charge hose with gauge

New rad fixed my overheating problems..picked it up from autozone..spectra I think Chinese made I suppose ...as much as I would love to put in that aluminum radiator can't afford it atm.. Autozone has lifetime warranty on them so I'll take a chance.. Thanks for the help guys

Sometime ago I think it was around July of last year rockauto had the dorman nss for $5 maybe an error in their system now they have it for $116 couple of guys on here snagged a couple @ $5 a piece I even picked up a spare myself..maybe one of them might be willing to sell u one on the cheap don't see anything wrong with an aftermarket one not much going on in there but I maybe wrong but u can find aftermarket ones on eBay for around $30 Right I've been looking and found one made by AM Autoparts p/n am-42413529 that has a 10 year warranty for $36. If they warranty for that long then I assume it's of good quality. Yeah like hornbrod said for that price u don't mind taking a chance plus a 10 year warranty not a bad deal..

Sometime ago I think it was around July of last year rockauto had the dorman nss for $5 maybe an error in their system now they have it for $116 couple of guys on here snagged a couple @ $5 a piece I even picked up a spare myself..maybe one of them might be willing to sell u one on the cheap don't see anything wrong with an aftermarket one not much going on in there but I maybe wrong but u can find aftermarket ones on eBay for around $30

Renix 0-88 ohms 91-92 were 105-5 ohms iirc

Yes, the fluid coming from the cooler back into the AW4 will be cooler. Realistically, if your transmission is original and is still shifting as it should be, I wouldn't worry about what your new temp gauge says if it's accurate and the indicated temp doesn't go over ~250*. I put my gauge on the supply line to monitor the transmission incoming fluid. I don't really care what the temp is coming out as long as it's getting cooled properly during the out-to-in transition cycle. Tranny is working and shifting as it should I'm not sure about the torque converter locking up cause I don't know how to check it but I does feel like it's locking up when I lift my foot of the gas at high speeds I don't feel like an immediate drop in Rpm more like a gradual decrease.. Was just concerned about the rise in temp cause I read somewhere aw4 normal operating temperature is around 170-180 and if I'm running 220 on my daily driver I'm afraid I'll be swapping In a new tranny anytime soon

I have an aftermarket cooler and when u say supply line do u mean supply to the transmission and if so shouldnt the fluid being supplied from the cooler be significanfly lower in temperature after being cooled before entering the transmission and also u mentiont torque converter lock up is there anyway to diagnose and what about fluid type and levels would that be a factor although levels seem good

Its located on the line to the front of the transmission

What would cause my aw4 to get hot i have a transmission cooler installed stock gears with 33s..works around 170 180 then when i hit the highway goes up to 220..

The light functions exactly the same as the b pillar lights it has a switch to the side so u can turn it on or off as u like or have it turn on when the door is opened

Yup I'm sure the overhead console would be a great addition to your headliner reason i put the cab light to the front was because i already have the b-pillar lights towards the back and doesnt disperse enough light towards the front of the cab in the event you wanna read something at night or something but I'm sure a console light would probably be brighter and would work just as well from the center of the cab..

Gosh..thanks hornbrod..means alot