carnuck

Depending where you’re at, a deal could be made. I have the AX4 in my ‘87 MJ that I’m going to auto 4x4 to swap. But it’s 2wd and I know my 4 speed came with 3.55 gears. (I have 3.07 in my 4.0L 5 speed 2wd and 3.55s to go in) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It should vary with RPMs. Even with the center of yours broken you should be able to tell where the tone ring sat. I can’t recall if the big slots were at CPS on TDC but the converter holes should let you see it at TDC #1 or #6 (same point) if it’s aligned or off a lot. The RENIXPower group on yahoo has/had diagrams showing how it aligned. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’m thinking about 700R4 from S10 Blazer with 242 tcase in place of 904 and NP207. Anyone tried it yet? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That’s why I said to ensure it’s functioning. Brakes are a good thing. My return line was rusted through by the sensor valve. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Also make sure your starter bolts are stock knurled ones and not something slapped in there. (Mine were when I got my truck) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Clean the temp sensor in the head and if your thermostat has a warranty, see if it’s one of the batch of incorrectly marked ones. I think the 9 of 192F is upside down. Synthetic atf in extreme temp areas tends to fix cold shift issues. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If it’s functioning correctly it won’t. I bypassed mine because it dropped all pressure on the bumpy downhill of my gravel driveway with empty box and an add a leaf. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I converted to HO PS setup. I kept the ac compressor plate for onboard air. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I would make sure the load valve is working or bypassed altogether because the downhills allow the rear to come up and shut off rear flow. When I put 33” tires on with 10” brakes, I went to amc eagle wagon rear wheel cyls which are slightly bigger bore. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I think one of the ifsja guys has it and he’s turning it into a lava crawler. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I would check the timing with a light first but there is a post here with pictures of a slotted sensor. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It could be the tone ring was welded slightly off from where it should be. You may have to slot the crank sensor to get it closer to the correct timing. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Emergency snow chains ($34 in comealongs) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The trans won’t like no fluid while running. It can fry the front pump. Did you maybe leave the ground loose? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I think you need to check the position of the flexplate in TDC to figure where it’s incorrectly pointing when it’s supposed to fire. 30 degree intervals say you got it mixed up but you should be able to reset with just the distributor so timing is correct. The fuel just sprays in accordance with the position of the flexplate but the spark will affect the running. There is a witness mark to help with the alignment (the extra hole in the crank) For the 2.5L Guy, you need FRA-418 but with tone ring. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The harmonic balancer rubber isn’t coming out? Check the water pump pulley for a crack and idler bearing for dried out bushings. Take your belt off and turn everything by hand and listen to see which one. I had to add washers to align my PS and the other pulleys. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The damage that messes them up is usually being bent (during motor install or off-roading). The center reinforcement ring missing can cause it too. A dropped AW4 torque converter with the nub knocked off center or even totally off causes issues. A broken starter nose can jam it too. People prying on the converter through the hole to turn the motor can start a crack. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Timing chain tensioner in my 220,000 mile motor sounds horrible on start up. Loose starter or cracked drive (I switched to a TJ starter and mine cranks like a 24 volt system now. Crank position sensor loose is an issue. I have the 2.5L TBI flexplate in my stuff but I’m going to switch to 4.0L instead but I considered a 700R4 from a 2.8L S10 Blazer with np231 or np242 tcase. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The shaft bushing wears out, but if it’s fixed with a bushing kit, it’ll be fine. I have knurled them in the past and used nylon tee bushings well lubed to fix them and carbs. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Be careful about the trans output. Some years were 23 spline with “swirled” gear and some have a pilot nub on the shaft output. Then there is different lengths. 08/90 and earlier are 21 spline. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I just file off the corners of the centering pin nut and stick it in the centering hole of the spring pad if the spring packs stay the same. I’m going to be making new weld on spring pads with a shock mount hole built in (they will be slightly longer towards the back so the shock goes into OEM position like SUA and stock shocks are used) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Cracked vacuum can behind the passenger side bumper? It’s almost like one or two injectors stop spraying. The power drop makes me wonder about adding another negative from battery to body. That fixed my 2.5s starting and charging issues. Could a wire be sitting on the exhaust or pinched by a bolt on the block, like the O2 or CTS? Will it do that in park? If so, unplug the alternator (not the main terminal) and see if it goes away. Shorted diodes used to be a thing of the past, but they can really mess with electrics by throwing AC voltage across the diode which interferes with the computer and eventually kills the battery. Dirty battery terminals can do that too. Power spikes really mess with computers. My old Throttle Position Sensor affects my 2.5 too. I have to put the pedal in just the right position or it won’t start cold. I’ll fix it later but I have a 107,000 mile ‘90 4.0L AW4/NP231 and full harness to go in. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I put a rubber band on mine.

This was the first time in my years as a tech that I found a running, driving vehicle with a driveshaft rusted through like a piccolo! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I thought I saw one awhile back. Stock length for shortbox 4x4 4.0L AW4 np231 with D35 rear That or difference in length driveshaft from long to shortbox. If you haven’t measured before, Center of the u-joint to u-joint is the way I’ve always done them. (Especially solid shafts with slip yokes) I have to dig through my spare pile for one for my ‘88. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk