86customanche

I disconnected most of the sensors and pin 17 (orange wire) continues to only carry 0.5V. So I cut the wire about a foot from the PCM, and it still only shows 0.5V, with the key on. Based on a few other postings, I feel a new computer is needed. Does a 98 require the programming of the VIN and mileage? What is a good source for them? Also, there is resistance between pin B&C on the crank position sensor, i.e. not "infinite resistance". Based on a few other postings, I feel a new sensor is needed.

If she would just stand there and not talk its be great. Courtney that is. Doesn't come off as the smartest. Where as jessi is smart but not as goo looking IMO. Can't wait for tomorrow morning to watch though

What you explain there tells me its not my crank sensor. Nothing changes when I unplug it. The gauges still don't turn on (volt and fuel) and everything else acts the same.

ahhh the life saving breaker bar :bowdown: . Definitely very useful, that and my air compressor would be the most useful.

:hmm: don't see a link anywhere

If you don't mind me asking, what was shorted out about the crank sensor. And how could I test that?

Today's excitement on this effort... The orange wire from the PCM, black plug, pin A17, only shows .5V. This is still true after disconnecting all the sensors I could find.

1600 is too much for the condition of that one. I bought my 92 for only 1000 and the rockers are less rusted, have basically no bed rust, and a little floorpan rust that I fixed already. Id keep looking. Price changes depending on location, northern trucks should be cheaper because of the rust problems.

Thats what I plan on doing next. Hope to get to it this week. Busy week at work for me.

One can always hope it's an mj. But most likely an xj :mad:

Will do. He hasn't taken his jeep out there yet but he does know a lot about them

I just saw that too. It didn't look like it to me. I thought I saw a cab on tw rest of it. Still cool to see a jeep

:rotf: @ Jim

Pretty sweet. Welcome to the site. My best friend moved out to OK city almost a year ago and hes really into Jeeps too and has a 92 YJ.

The volt thing makes sense too. I tested the voltage on the CPS connector (the part on the vehicle side) and it only read about .5 volts.

love me some powerblock and courtney hansen. DVR set up already

That makes sense. What/where is the PCM? Ive always hated the electrical part of vehicles.

still get a draw when the relay is removed. About 1.6 amps

edit: the code was p1694. i mistyped.

congrats! thats one sick rig. :MJ 2:

I know that my 98 xj is different from all mjs, but i know a lot of yall have xjs and know a lot so I'm going to put my story about the xj problems I'm having here as well as a couple other forums. This might get long but bear with me. I’m having problems with my 98 xj 4.0. Multiple problems and would appreciate any help y’all could give me. Just as a little background, I replaced the head gasket a couple months ago and drove it on a 300 mile roundtrip in a weekend. The only CEL code I get is P1694. I try to clear it, but that doesn’t seem to work. About a month ago, the battery was completely dead. I charged it overnight and nothing happened so I went and bought a brand new one. Jeep started up just fine. I was out of town for a few days and when I came back about a week later, the battery was dead again. I did a parasitic drain test and the fuse is F22 under the hood, amp meter showed 1.6amps. Removing the fuse reduced the current draw to very little. A chart shows this fuse is the fuel pump relay. Not sure where to start to look because when I bypass the actual relay by connecting pins 30 & 87, the pump runs. Fuse 11 in the junction box is good. just to break up the story a little :banana: The second issue is that it doesn’t start. Even with a fully charged battery (12.6v) it will crank but never starts, and I can’t hear the fuel pump running. I haven’t checked for spark because I’ve already pulled the CPS thinking it was bad. Ran a resistance test on the CPS and between B and C got about 16k ohms on the 20k ohm setting. Not sure if that means it works or not, especially because that test isn’t always conclusive. The fuel and voltage gauge do not move when the key is turned, with or without the CPS installed. Also, when I turn the key to on (not start) I would expect to hear the fuel pump turn on to get some fuel to the rail, and I don’t hear anything.

:yeah that: factory option. Some people do build them themselves, but finding a factory one isnt too impossible.

love to get a new set of rubber for the truck..but doubtful since I'm headed to vegas for a couple days right after xmas and the parents are paying for it. Always can wish though right?

does it look the same? or has the cousin changed it up

not a bad find at all for only 500 bucks. Good luck with the fix up? va beach is only about 3 hours from me.