comanche09

I'm in process of putting my swap together too. I have the ax-15 bracket that bolts to the trans/transfer case, but I am bolting in a NP242. The rod that came with the 242 that connects to the tcase tab is much longer than the 231. The 231 rod looks like it will work. I have the 242 shifter gate. Will using the 231 rod work? Thanks

Cool, my cigar lighter doesn't look to have a ring around it for light though(factory '88 Pioneer). I did grab the pigtail and light for the ashtray light though and it has a blue sheath around the bulb. While we're talking about lighting. My MJ had No (working) interior lights when I bought it... Since then I have installed: - XJ Footwell lights - GM Mirror Map lights - Lighted Vanity Sunvisors (matching color with NP242 operating tag) - Ashtray light - Adv Auto parts B-pillar lights - Transfer case indicator light - OEM clock and backlight bulb - Twillight Sentinel Bright as hell at night now :yes:

Great thread! I replaced my shocks (Original OEMs! :eek: ) recently. I went with the cheapest Monroe they make to get me by before the lift. Heh, they are a couple steps below Sensatrac. They were like $10 each and painted all white. Gotta say they ride pretty nice, but that's comparing them to 21 year old blown out stock ones... :yes:

I got the 242 transfer case skid from my donor XJ. I have no idea how it mounts (if was already off the jeep when I got it), and doesn't look obvious looking at the skid. Anyone have any pics of the skids installed? Thanks

Do know if this was obvious to you or not, but don't forget that you have to move the crossmember back to the rear set of holes in the body (they are already there). You will need a 10mm x 1.5 tap to thread the holes in the body. Are you going to an external slave setup? Try to swap the stupid reverse torx bolts (2) at the top of the bellhousing. Remove the CPS before separating it and reinstall it after you bolt it back to the engine. The downpipe nuts and bolts can be a b*tch to remove if they are rusty (they usually are so use lots of PB blaster) some heat may help too.

Thank you man! This is not the same truck anymore than when I picked it up bone stock last July in regards to driving feel, steering, handling etc. Now with some MT springs on the back and the aftermarket sway bar, I may lower it, throw on some low profile tires and enter autocross.... LOL just kidding :banana: :shake: :hmm: :dunce: Couple more notes on the install, If you can, snag the WJ body side bolts, they have an elongated 13mm head and makes it much easier to install (you don't have to worry about dropping the bolt in the frame as much) Also, the lower edge of the upper bucket scuffs the paint off the bottom of the upper arm at full droop. A slight grinding of the (talking half a millimeter here) top edge of the upper bucket lower lip would clear it.

Thank you man! This is not the same truck anymore than when I picked it up bone stock last July in regards to driving feel, steering, handling etc. Now with some MT springs on the back and the aftermarket sway bar, I may lower it, throw on some low profile tires and enter autocross.... LOL just kidding :banana: :shake: :hmm: :dunce: Couple more notes on the install, If you can, snag the WJ body side bolts, they have an elongated 13mm head and makes it much easier to install (you don't have to worry about dropping the bolt in the frame as much) Also, the lower edge of the upper bucket scuffs the paint off the bottom of the upper arm at full droop. A slight grinding of the (talking half a millimeter here) top edge of the upper bucket lower lip would clear it.

I'd love to see a pic of these headrests on your bench seat... :drool: I echo everyone else, a good upholstery shop is your friend and one that also does boating upholstery is a bonus if you looking for heavy duty material. My local guy did my headliner for $80 matching color and better than original. He said he could redo my bench and restuff the driver side for $150. If you go this route please post pics of the process if you can! I want to see how the headrests mount to the seat back on the bench. Thanks!

Thanks Don! Haha, yea I probably should pick up some new axle UCA bushings, but I figure they are 9 years newer than the originals ('97 axle), so I'm probably good for another ten years at least! :eek: Seriously, they are on the to-do list for later. Haven't checked caster yet, but it should be closer to stock based on the info you posted on the control arm length thread. The truck just drives so much better as is. Running 235/70/15 (28") right now (got em like new off of craigslist for cheap, to replace the unsafe 10+yr old tires the PO had on it) I will probably end up with 30 or 31" tires though when I finish the build. :thumbsup: Tires look centered in the wheelwell, I just went out and checked. My "Lift" is only '98 UpCountry springs (see sig), when compared to my original 2wd springs, nets 2" lift. Compared to 4x4 springs, they are around 1" lift. I really like the way the springs ride and want to keep them, but it depends on how I lift the rear (still stock). I will look into JKS LCA if/when the time comes. Thanks! Regarding the install, I jacked up the Passenger rear side of the truck off the ground to try to compress/stuff the drivers side to check clearance with the D30 diff. It clears fine, but it looks like in a full stuff/bump stop situation, there could be an issue. I don't plan to do any hardcore wheeling though...

Thanks Don! Haha, yea I probably should pick up some new axle UCA bushings, but I figure they are 9 years newer than the originals ('97 axle), so I'm probably good for another ten years at least! :eek: Seriously, they are on the to-do list for later. Haven't checked caster yet, but it should be closer to stock based on the info you posted on the control arm length thread. The truck just drives so much better as is. Running 235/70/15 (28") right now (got em like new off of craigslist for cheap, to replace the unsafe 10+yr old tires the PO had on it) I will probably end up with 30 or 31" tires though when I finish the build. :thumbsup: Tires look centered in the wheelwell, I just went out and checked. My "Lift" is only '98 UpCountry springs (see sig), when compared to my original 2wd springs, nets 2" lift. Compared to 4x4 springs, they are around 1" lift. I really like the way the springs ride and want to keep them, but it depends on how I lift the rear (still stock). I will look into JKS LCA if/when the time comes. Thanks! Regarding the install, I jacked up the Passenger rear side of the truck off the ground to try to compress/stuff the drivers side to check clearance with the D30 diff. It clears fine, but it looks like in a full stuff/bump stop situation, there could be an issue. I don't plan to do any hardcore wheeling though...

Hi All, First, thanks to Hornbrod who rekindled my interest in this mod. :waving: They said it couldn't be done at NAXJA.org. I've got to say this upgrade has made a significant improvement in the way the truck steers and handles on the road. The is no more play in the steering wheel before the steering reacts, it is instantaneous (original steering box). Just minute movements of the wheel and it reacts. The whole front end has firmed up significantly, in a good way. Cornering body lean is reduced even further. Awesome upgrade. On to the Pics: Here is a pic comparing the stock arm with the WJ arm, notice the WJ arm is fully boxed. The stock arms measures 15" eye to eye, the WJ arm measures about 14.9". This corrects my caster with my 2" lift over stock, rather than adding spacers to the LCA buckets. Picture of drivers side upper control arm bucket. Remove this small amount of sheet metal directly below the bucket. (Cut a mirror image off the passenger side, I used a dremel with reinforced quick connecting cutting wheel) Size reference. Thats it, then install the WJ arms. I used a pipe wrench with my jack to help line up the axle side bolts, but a come-along will work too. Do them one at a time. More pics: Full Droop, no problems. :chillin:

Hi All, First, thanks to Hornbrod who rekindled my interest in this mod. :waving: They said it couldn't be done at NAXJA.org. I've got to say this upgrade has made a significant improvement in the way the truck steers and handles on the road. The is no more play in the steering wheel before the steering reacts, it is instantaneous (original steering box). Just minute movements of the wheel and it reacts. The whole front end has firmed up significantly, in a good way. Cornering body lean is reduced even further. Awesome upgrade. On to the Pics: Here is a pic comparing the stock arm with the WJ arm, notice the WJ arm is fully boxed. The stock arms measures 15" eye to eye, the WJ arm measures about 14.9". This corrects my caster with my 2" lift over stock, rather than adding spacers to the LCA buckets. Picture of drivers side upper control arm bucket. Remove this small amount of sheet metal directly below the bucket. (Cut a mirror image off the passenger side, I used a dremel with reinforced quick connecting cutting wheel) Size reference. Thats it, then install the WJ arms. I used a pipe wrench with my jack to help line up the axle side bolts, but a come-along will work too. Do them one at a time. More pics: Full Droop, no problems. :chillin:

Hey all, Just an update on my driveshaft quest: At the junkyard, 1986 S-10 4x4 Short Bed V6- Rear driveshaft length= 42 5/8" This would work great for a 4.0L AX-15/BA-10 4X4 SWB, however you would need bastardized u-joints to run it as they are slightly bigger than the 1310's. I would have snapped it up, but it was way too rust pitted. '92-94 Ford Crown Victoria / Mercury Grand Marquis (without tow package)- These are beefy steel driveshaft that run 1310 u-joints and are very long 53"+ and would need to be cut down. If you see that the shaft is aluminum, that is the tow package equipped model and requires larger ujoints. Only problem is the yard moves them with forklifts and every shaft was dented on these. '92-98 Lincoln Town Car- Same as above. '90+ Ford Aerostar- If you can find a steel one, it also runs 1310 u-joints, would work with cutting down.

I have the small grapefruit sized one (my hvac controls work great AFIAK everything is 22 yrs old). The larger cylindrical "football" shaped ones come with Jeeps that have cruise control, from what I have seen during countless trips to the boneyards.

My 2008 Liberty has the "open" cooling system. Chrysler probably went back to "open" style because it costs less. IMO, with heat cycled pressurized plastic, its a matter of WHEN it will fail not IF. And on the Renix Jeeps, its a particularly poor design (plastic cap too). Now if the tank was made of aluminium or stainless steel $$$...

SWB

Thanks for the reply Pete. :cheers: My original driveshaft is the rubber sandwich one and I think the rubber may be no good or going out. It looks pretty cracked and dry from what I can see of the rubber.

Bump. How much shorter than stock can we get away with? Can anyone post with experience? Thanks

ax15 doesn't bolt in behind a 4 cylinder without an extremely rare dodge dakota bellhousing. you are looking for parts for an ax-5...and you can get the slave in metal. make sure you order for your year of truck, NOT the year of the trans, and swap the bellhousings if necessary. as geonovast stated, you also have to swap the bearing retainer/front cover of the trans to make this work. Yeah, I know he is asking about an AX-5... For the sake of starting yet another thread on the topic, I thought I would ask my question here based on the non-specific thread title, to help those who may be searching for information regarding same in the future. jmderyke, apologies for my slight thread hijack. :cheers:

The external slave hydraulics on the 95 AX-15 (not sure of other years) is all plastic and available has a complete unit, pre bled and ready to install. As far as I know, only available at the dealer like that for around $120. Anyone know of a cheaper source for a complete setup?

Bellhousing and Tranny Swap combinations: http://www.jeeps-offroad.com/f41/engine-swap-bellhousings-4740/

OK. Need some help. Picked up a $12 1986 Firebird Trans-Am Driveshaft at the u-pull. It measures 41 1/2" Eye-To-Eye. Per the stock driveshaft sticky, OEM shaft length for 4.0L / AX-15 / NP 231 or 242 / D44 or 8.25 I need is 42 1/4"... Two Questions: Can I get by safely with the 3/4" shorter length??? If I can: Per the Dana Spicer Catalog, it specs 1310 series U-joints for OEM and specs 1350 series U-joints for the Firebird shaft (it specs the same for the '79 Camaro shaft posted above, How did you get it to work FireFighter32??). What mods would I need to make to make this driveshaft work??? Thanks EDIT: Well for reference: IF i had the "w/outside snap rings" a 1310 to 1350 conversion spicer 5-460x ujoint would be the solution. But, looks like the shaft I got is a non-spicer "Mechanics" S44 brand "w/inside snap rings". Bummer EDIT: Gotta love the internet: http://www.neapco.com/n_products-catalogs.php?pdffile=2 Conversion U-Joint from Neapco: Part number: 3-3130BF (Saginaw S44 (Inside Snap Ring) to Spicer 1310 (Outside Snap Ring) Conversion U-joint) This is the U-Joint (2) needed to run the Sagninaw inside snap ring Camaro/Firebird Driveshaft.

is that an actual mesure of a stock shaft? i ask because... posted in green and has a manual, (your shaft should be an inch longer) or is his shaft the wrong one? (not original? wich would explain the intact sticker) also...2.5 came with an ax15 behind it? news to me I measured it last night. It is the stock shaft out of my truck. There may be a 1/8" here or there but that is what it measured to be. Same here, my truck was bone stock when I got it, I'm the second owner. The exterior was pretty bad with surface rust (terrible factory paint) but the under side of my truck, not a speck of rust. Its really beautiful... :dunno:

Wow, how did I miss this thread... I was at the U-pull yesterday and while there started looking for possible shaft donors for my swap (forgot my tape measure :wall: ). I wonder if there is a website for u-joints that fit our rigs and also referenced the vehicle they are on. Two vehicles caught my eye for a possible shaft donor: 1993 Chevy Astro Van Ext (need to research) 1984 S-10 Blazer V6 2wd (need to research) Thanks for posting this, I know I saw a few old camaros at the yard... I'd rather keep my stock DS, who knows, years down the road may want to do a full ground up resto.

Bookmark this thread: http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=70388 I have a '98 NP242 T-case bolted to a '90 AX-15. It just bolted on, no issues.