comanche09

Hmm, doesn't sound like its normal. Spare is tight, shocks are new, springs look ok and all exhaust hangars intact. The leafs are original but look fine, no missing clamps or obviously broken leafs. There is one intersection that I can re-create the noise everytime if I cross it going over 30 mph, there is an abrupt dip in the road. Tailgate has some play at the catches, but thats and entirely different noise (more like a rattle). This is a dull "thunk"

Does anyone else have this happen? Bed empty. It happens when going over railroad tracks or when there is an abrupt dip or hump in the road at speeds of like 25-35 mph. Moderately loud "thunk" noise from the rear. What is it?

Beautiful Truck! :drool: As TrailReadyMJ said, you could try V8 ZJ coils. I got a hold of some '98 XJ UpCountry front Springs. I love the ride. Like the V8 coils, they should only net you about 1/2 to 1" of lift, but they have a higher spring rate than the OEMs. That should help even out your truck. They help clean up the sloppy ride of the too soft factory springs too IMO. You need good shocks to compliment the springs. I have bilsteins on my other truck and while they are great shocks and improve handling, they are very quick dampening, which for some, translates into a rougher ride. I am running cheapo base Monroe shocks and don't have any complaints. I've read alot of XJ owners like the regular old Monroe Sensatracs for a good on road ride. Kind of apples to oranges, but the have the same front suspension. It really comes down to personal preference. Most expensive doesn't necessarily mean you'll like the ride.

That is Hardcore! :bowdown: You definately got the fever bad. :yes: Check the brakes over really good. I'd pack a 95-96 XJ Master booster combo LOL. My brakes sucked baaaad when I got mine, no power assist and no stopping power and that was on a 2wd with 205/75/15s. At least engine braking was available. Good luck and be safe! I envy you! :USAflag:

Hey Don, The '97 XJ has the "hook" style (like on most modern cars) on the end where you attach the wiper vs. the stud or "post" style of my '88. The end that attaches to the wiper post linkage is exactly the same. Unfortunately the newer style sticks out from the windshield a bit further with the bosch icon wipers installed, so I don't think it would help with your hood clearance issue. On a side note, I swapped out my linkage bushings per the writeup on here (thanks!) and with the new arms and blades they are still slow as molasses. Looks like a newer yard motor is on my list. :cheers:

Gotta love the U-pull! Today I grabbed: -like new 100 amp renix alternator -'97 XJ wiper arms (newer hook design) -aftermarket Oil pressure gauge setup with all fittings -CCV line -Misc relays Total: $12

I'll be going down this road soon too! :cheers: here's some info I've gathered up preparing my swap: You can order the complete OEM 94?-96 XJ master cylinder and slave assembly complete with lines pre-bled from mopardiscountparts.com for around $140 shipped (P/N 52104110) You can reuse your clutch (P/N 4713323) and flywheel (P/N 33002672), but might consider replacing same if you have the cash. The clutch release bearing (P/N 53008342) comes with some parts store clutch kits. Good idea to replace that too. Try the pilot bushing from a 73-75 CJ5 with a 304 V8, 3spd manual. $4 You'll have to cut/splice reverse light wiring at trans in if you want em. Not sure if your t-case came from the '95, but make sure it has the 23 spline input shaft, pre-H.O. (excluding AX-15 equipped) are 21 spline. Hope that helps! :cheers:

I've removed and replaced my bench a few times chasing water leaks. The 8 nuts are 13mm. I find it easier to undo the seat belt buckles (2 T50 Torx Bolts) at the tunnel and leave them through the seat cushion. They are kind of a pain to fish back through if you leave em in. My vinyl bench is not heavy at all (maybe 60 lbs), I leave the seatback folded forward and the tracks in the most forward position and pick it up and out the passenger door in one motion. More bulky than anything. Getting it back in can be a pain sometimes. Sometimes it just plops back in on the studs, but sometimes it needs finesse. You can't get one side on, then try to place the other side (well, without stressing the studs), if that makes sense. It would be nice to have a flip down armrest with cupholders. :drool: I'd like buckets, but I still want to be able to haul both kids.

The two spoke XJ/MJ steering wheel's last year was in 1990, so I'm not sure which steering wheel you are referring to? I did not know that. Thanks for the info! Guess the seller got the year wrong, but that gives me some hope it falls in my year range. I swapped from this style wheel: To this: Amjay, thanks for the info. I think there is more to it, that doesn't look like it would fit in my column. :???:

I swapped my worn out/oozing '88 rubber OEM three spoke steering wheel for a nice leather '91 Country/Limited two spoke with full pad in matching color cheap off of ebay. When I pulled the original wheel it was obvious that the horn works differently than the new wheel. What parts do I need to make the horn work on the two spoke wheel? I have the tilt steering column. Please help! Thanks!

Actually, the GM 3.8L (3800) is a 90 degree V6 and its at least as legendary as the 4.0L I6s. Pushrods with cast iron block and heads. Great motor, until they tried using thermoplastic intake manifolds on the Series II and had some issues with warpage in the early-mid 2000s. They did go back to aluminum on the latest Series III. Supercharged variants could be modded for serious power. IIRC, there are Grand Prix's running 10s in the quarter mile. Impressive, especially with FWD. GM Pushrod 60 degree V6 = 2.8L (early Comanche), 3.1L, 3.4L and more recently 3.5L and 3.9L with aluminum heads. It would be cool to see a 3800 Supercharged Comanche

Thank you for sharing this! :cheers:

LOL yeah I saw that too. I can think of a TON of other places to spend $300+ on the MJ, and the taillights definately isn't one of them... :nuts:

Yup, I pulled the pedal assembly from an automatic, just moved the switch over. With both pedal assemblies on the bench, I was able to swap my clutch pedal to the automatic assembly. Be careful pulling the switch out of that hole, I partially stripped the plastic switch threads and have it backed up with a zip tie in case it decides to pop out... If you are going to re-use your prop valve, don't forget you'll need brass adapter fittings (easily found at your local parts store) My front brake hoses were seized to the line fittings so I ended up replacing the front lines. Great mod though, you'll get modern braking performance.

where be the easiest to get those bolts? i got a set of uppers coming and need the bolts. do u think the dealer be cheap enough? I got lucky and got my arms and bolts from a Junkyard 99 WJ at the u-pull yard. Dealer shouldn't be too bad, I only used the two WJ bolts for the upper arms at the body side and reused all the MJ bolts/nuts elsewhere. Don't bother buying/grabbing the WJ nuts, they were crappy half nuts welded to thin steel plate (to allow for tightening the bolt without holding the nut). Fastenal may have the bolts too.

Ya know now that you mention pushing in the clutch when starting... That's something I've always done since I learned how to drive stick about 15 yrs ago. And in all the manual vehicles I've driven since, the clutch had to be fully depressed in order for the starter to engage. My MJ will start without the clutch engaged at all (I did it in gear by accident once :oops: ) Is the MJ supposed to have a clutch safety switch? GL-3 rated oil is safe to run with the AX-15 brass synchros, but I don't think GL-3 is easily available anymore. IIRC, Chryco switched the spec'd oil for the AX-15 to 10w-30 motor oil because the newer gear oils attack the brass.

My Pukegoat stubbornly goes into 2nd when cold too. Can't wait to swap in the AX-15. The pull in neutral when first started up could be the throwout bearing?

Thanks Geonovast, did they all Idle in that range even when cold? Maybe I'm just used to newer cars with the cold start high idle for emissions. My '07 Aspen won't even go into overdrive until the engine has reached a certain temp. My idle dead set at 500 ice cold or at operating temp...

My truck idles at 500 regardless of engine temp. Runs great otherwise though. It did stall on me once after pushing in the clutch coming to a stop, but fired right back up. What is the normal idle range?

I believe 97+ XJ boxes are an upgrade. I running my original 88 steering box but upgraded to V8 ZJ Tierod and Sway bar along with WJ upper and lower control arms. The front end is tighter than ... :brows: No slop.

I used I HO brake switch on my '88 when I converted to the 95 XJ booster setup. Ground the rod perfectly but still couldn't get the brake light to come on right. Pretty crappy design that switch on the Renix era rigs. So... I grabbed the pedal assembly from a H.O. which has the bracket on it to hold the H.O. switch. Swapped my clutch pedal to it (or vise versa, can't remember), then cut and splice the switch wires and now have reliable brake lights. Ugh, I remember what a PITA that was, my back hurts thinking about it.

Yes for the most part you can no longer purchase these parts new anymore. (They randomly appear on ebay once in awhile listed as NOS- "New Old Stock")

New wiper linkage Bushings may help (see DIY section). Is the 97+ Cherokee wiper motor any better? Easily Swapable? Wiring? From what I've read, apparently the Renix era linkages are better built (more welds) than later models.

I grab any MJ specific parts, needed or not... Fuel Tank Sender, Taillights, Rear wiring harness, Fuel filler neck (I think this is MJ specific), rear driveshafts, B-pillar and cab trim, etc

Don't think thats gonna be possible. NP242 ran behind AW4 (longer than AX-15) Guess there is always the Novak option...$$$