kook911

Back story, I have a 87 MJ with a 91 xj drivetrain and engine. 4.0 and ax15. I swapped out the complete engine wire harness and mated it with the MJ rear harness. I follow the write up on what to connect which wires to. Now onto the two problems. First one one is with the gas gauge. It is reading correct but backwards, empty is full and full is empty. Did I by chance hook up a wrong wire backwards? Really don’t know where to start looking but would like to get it corrected. Second problem my Speedo and mile trip meter doesn’t work. The rest of the gauges read correct and work. So far I have taken off the speed sensor and tested it on the multi meter. When I spin the sensor with the multi meter hooked up the sensor beeps every rotation. I also disconnected the wire harness inside the engine bay and clean the connectors out with contact cleaner. I also have taken the gauges completely out and made sure all the screws were tight on the back of the gauge. My only thought is the sensor is giving me a false positive. Any other ideals?

Thanks but I figured it out just in case someone else runs into this problem. I used a 1 1/4 inch socket. Fits just right and solved my problem.

Anyone got any tips on how to push this bushing out? From what I read the bushing has to come out from drive shaft side.

You know you can buy the wheel hub assembly complete from rock auto or any parts store.

Aw4 trans and there is scars.

I have a 93 Jeep cherokee 2wd. My problem is I am leaking trans oil out of the tail shaft. I know it is not the seal as I have replaced it several times and the leak always comes back. SO I am thinking that it is the bearing inside the tail shaft. Does anyone know the part number for this and is there a write up on how to do it?

Gas tank skid is mj specific. Also check out dirt bound off-road for bed armor. TC and front skid will work on the mj if you find one for the xj.

There is a great write up on how to do this. Just google it and you will find it. The hardest part that I found was removing the screws from the top of the dash. Other then that it is pretty straight forward. But I don't know what you are going to gain space wise, also what are you going to do about heat? That box holds your heater core.

One choice that you might want to make is truck driving. I am not talking about the OTR stuff but local, home everyday. It is a skill that will always be in demand and you can make some serious money while doing it. Very easy on the body and do the job till 65 plus. You can do the 40 hours a week or you can push 70 hours a week. If you decide to get into this field I would go and try to get into heavy hauling. I got drivers that make gross 2k a week every week. Concrete drivers make well over 1500 a week here also. It all depends on what you want to get into. But best of luck.

I am on a iPad and I can not see the pics. I don't know if there is a work around for the iPad.

You got a part number for the Zj. shafts? I did drain the tc fluid to make sure I didn't see any glitter and was good with that. Chain didn't feel loose when I looked in the hole.

When turning it's a light turn nothing sharp.

When I put the TC into 4hi I get a grinding or popping noise from the front axle when I turn the wheel left or right. Going straight I don't hear the noise and in 2wd I don't hear the noise at all. From what I can tell and researched is my u joints on the front axle is/are going bad. I read the write ups on how to replace them and I don't know if this is over my skill level or not. I have swapped out motors, trans, rebuilt drums brakes, etc but never touched a axle shaft. I have a couple of shops quoting me $200 to get the job done. So my question is the popping noise I hear the u joints and is the price reasonable? Also I know for sure that it is not the front drive shaft as I just got it rebuilt from the driveshaft shop.

2-3. Two hooks into three. 2 is for the temp gauge. If you have a full cluster then it should be peg. If you idiot light then it will never work. Buy the correct plug for 3 and then 2 will hook in. 4. You are correct. 5-6. Don't have a clue. 7. That is the vacuum switch for the heater core. Where you see the tee in the back there use to be a plastic picec of junk. Old owner did away with it and just ran straight lines. Does you heat work? Also just cap it off. 8. No clue

I paid 140 for my windshield. The guy came out and took the old one out. For me that help bc I was removing the dash and you will find this hard to believe but when you don't have a windshield in place it is easy to get the dash in and out. After I was done he came back and installed it. To me I rather have it done right and then fight it over and over again.

Sold for $11,500

Package says I got the correct blub. Also drill out the hole for the ground and got it to bare metal. Put a larger bolt with nut just to make sure. Check everything and all looks good. I'm going to pick up a pack local to me and see. The last set I bought off rock auto so it might be the wrong blub in the correct package.

Ok now on to the next problem. On my rear brakes the top bulbs on each side are out. I went out and got the 2057 bulbs. Plugged the bulbs in and was getting the real fast blinking. Took them out and went back to normal. I then placed the blub into the socket the incorrect way (where it will not lock into place) and when I push down, the blinker will blink normally. So did I somehow buy the wrong bulbs?

I talked to him a couple months ago and he said he doesn't make the ones with the lights but would consider trying. He never got back to me after that. Has he since posted lighted ones for sale? I can't find his Craigslist posts anymore and I don't see anything on what I'm guessing is his Facebook page. He is apart of the XJ/MJ group. He makes them with the lights now. 300 with lights 225 without.

I would also like to know this. I wanted to replace mine also but the part stores only sold it o-ring in a kit.

I second just locking it permanently. I have done it years ago and have not had a problem. Then you will be able to remove all the lines and just cap off then metal plate and your good to go.

So what you your saying is that I should run only one pump, and cap Off the other? I'll try that next. Yes. That's the way it is in the dual pump XJ tanks - the power and and output hoses are completely segregated. That was the problem. When I capped off one of the lines, it sprayed out no problem. Thanks for the tip

So what you your saying is that I should run only one pump, and cap Off the other? I'll try that next.

There is a guy on Facebook that makes them. The word he uses is repop. He has plenty and also can make then with the lights. I want to say he is 300 ish, but don't know if that includes shipping or not. Search for a guy name Frank Cote from warren, Rhode Island.