kook911

So I got tired of not having a speedo or mileage, so I finally got around to do some looking the problem. Well it didn’t take long but I found it and now need some help. The wire that comes off the transfer case is not connected. When I did my swap I guess I never hooked it up. So can someone tell me where this wire hooks into? I don’t know if I even have it on the correct side. This is where I zip tied it and left it.

For the full gauge cluster are you looking for a mechanical speedo? If so I have one.

Thanks all. That was the problem. I installed it backwards or upside down. It is now correctly installed.

Took the t case off to do a rebuild. Didn’t think about taking pics on how the linkage was attach to the Jeep and t case. Got the t case back installed and now can’t get the shifter to shift out of 2hi. I have shifted the gears on the t case by hand. I don’t know if my linkage is messed up and I think the first pic is 2hi and the second pic is 4lo. So I know I’m doing something wrong, just don’t know what. Any help.

Did you do any prep work? The whole key to this job is the prep, and if all you did what was in the picture then I don't know what you were expecting.

I went ahead and bought the 17833 range fork. I will update once I test to confirm that it does work and fit correctly.

I believe that I have found my answer and the 16976 is replaced with the 17833. Just wanted to get a second opinion but everything I read states this is true.

Today I started tearing apart my T-Case to do the rebuild. As I got down to the range fork, I found that the pads were worn and part of the fork itself was worn. I might as well replace it while i'm in there. The problem I'm having is I keep finding 2 different part numbers for the range fork. (16976 and 17833) The fork I have is 16976, but it's much harder to find compared to the 17833. Does anyone know if the 17833 fork could be substituted for the 16976 fork?

So any brand of 10w-30. I'm assuming full synthetic.

Ended up opening my np231. Chain was definitely stretched. Once I got it cleaned up the back side of the case was wore into by the chain. Is this something that I need to replace or run it? Also when I spin the bearings they spin with no problems. Is there a way to tell if the bearing are shot?

So it seems there is half that say MT90 and the other half say 10w30. So I’m going to guess that you can run either and be fine?

Why not just have the person count the spline? Wouldn’t that save you the trip?

Thought all the vacuum port did was light up the dash? So the port actually does something more then that?

Top t-case has a build date of 9/12/95. So according to Novak as long as the case has a short input shaft and 23 spline it will bolt up. Then I know I might have to take the hammer to the under side to get it to fit which I’m fine with.

This guy is selling both. He doesn't know what year they are from but says they both from a wrangler. The one without the shaft is the same as the one on my jeep. I got a couple questions. 1. Why does one have a shaft stocking out the back and one does not? 2. Both transfer cases have build dates of the year 95, will I be able to bolt either of them up to my ax-15 with no problems. I read something about the planetary gears not matching up, or did i read to much into it. Just trying to get the jeep up and running by this weekend as I have a wheeling trip planned.

Found this one on eBay but don't know if it is any good or not. My main worried is buying someone else problem. Also looks like you can get the SKF and Cloyes chain from rock auto. https://www.ebay.com/itm/NP231-Transfer-Case-Rebuild-Bearing-Chain-Chevy-GMC-Dodge-87-2001-24MM-BK231D/322793060898?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D49453%26meid%3D874d2f942a294a86b1df8e0c29d9051b%26pid%3D100678%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D15%26sd%3D322793060898&_trksid=p2481888.c100678.m3607&_trkparms=pageci%3A0d1bd33d-cd7e-11e7-bd2e-74dbd180048b%7Cparentrq%3Ad68700e915f0a866a47454d4fffa86b3%7Ciid%3A1

Found out yesterday when I went wheeling the chain is loose as in it makes a horrible noise until it catches and then it works. So I know that I will need rebuild. Is there a master kit that is the go to for rebuilding these? Would it be better to pick up a used t-case and put it in the jeep and hope for the best. The mj is just my toy so it can be down for quite some time. I can pick up a used one for about $150 but it seems that I can also get the rebuild for about the same price.

The frame tie in pic is the same as nates.

What does ACOS mean?

Finally figure out what was wrong. I put the trans mount and cross member on backwards. When I marked the cross member I marked it incorrect. So I looked up the part diagram to see how it was supposed to go. Thanks for the help.

I used the larger bushing. There was vibrating going on before the change but not this bad. I’m think new bushing with out of round yoke is making the vibrating issue. Upon more testing it’s only happening when in drive. No other gear. Got the aw4 auto trans. I’m going to throw it up on jack stands and hoping that I can pinpoint what is going on.

I might have you beat

Did the swap of the bushing last week. Took it for a spin and when I put the XJ in drive I get a bad vibration. It will smooth out when I hit the gas, but there are at times I can still fill the vibration in the steering while driving. Putting the XJ in neutral and park will smooth it out. I also replace all three motor mounts with brand new ones today just to rule that out. So any ideal why I am now getting this bad vibration while before I never had it. Maybe my slip yoke is bad does anyone have the part number for the 2wd auto trans.

I used the ax15 mated with the np231j. So the drivetrain has the electric speedo. The speed sensor I’m talking about is on the tail shaft of the transfer case.

Well thanks for the fuel gauge. I will just live with it. Rather it be accurate then read correct and wrong way. Speedo I am using the HO cluster. I want to say it's a two wire but not sure. I will check when I get home.