Jeepjeff859

I used a master from my ax4 when I did my 4.0 swap and it works fine with the ax15

I'll take pictures of the install, not much info out about it

Makes sense

So it's just reverses it, old 4L equals 2wd now

The 2 little tabs that index the unit had to bend them a little, don't know if it my tank or the unit

I got the one for np231 with manual trans

http://m.autozone.com/fuel-delivery/fuel-tank-sending-unit?searchtext=Chp10148&number=Chp10148 Part is chp10148 Also had to switch the positive and negative wire

Autozone , I'll get the part number, I used to on a 1986 tank so I had to tweak it a little but it works

So today i bought the boostwerks linkage kit and I noticed in the pictures the shift lever on the transfer case points upwards but on mine the lever points Downwards in the 2wd position is this a simple un bolt the lever and change the postition?

I decided to just put the stock tank in the bed, I bought a new sending unit today and wired it all up, something I noticed is the fuel gauge works when the engine isn't running but when it running the gauge goes to empty, any ideas?

Has anyone tried this fuel cell from Jaz ? http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/301712836191?ul_noapp=true&chn=ps&lpid=82 I can't find descriptions for it on any place selling it. Or does anyone know a good fuel cell in the same price range?

1986 jeep comanche red long bed Used to have 2.5 liter with Ax4 Now has 4.0 with AX15 Mostly off road use Dana 30 and 35 axles 6 in lift Affordable off road stinger front bumper 36 in swampers on 15 in cherokee rims Will be a on going project

Many aftermarket companies make fuse boxes, painless performance if you have the budget

For anyone doing the swap and at the point it shortening the drive shaft. I followed the local drive shaft shops way of measuring and found my length to 39 in. It ended up being to long so if you get a shop to do it I would recommend like 38 in. Or 37in. I had to take 1in of the the slip yoke to get it to fit and even then it was a tight fit

I just did a 4.0 swap in my 1986 and I used a 1994 grand cherokee engine with a 1996 XJ harness, everything plugged right in even HVAC, I would think a 1995 Cherokee engine would work if a ZJ engine did

Fort Benning doesn't have a shop that you can use? When I was at Fort lost in the woods there was a shop that you could rent and use the tools, if ya had a good buddy in maintenance they would probably weld you something up too

Tried again today but I tried a way I read in another forum about jamming a breaker bar against the frame rail and then using the engine to break the nut loose, instead in snapped the front out put shaft off, off to the junk yard for a new transfer case

What I liked about my 2.5 ax4 combo was a ratchet and extension could reach the bleeder screw from the cab so I could do all the pedal pushing my self

Might as well replace what you can while it's out

I usually do gravity bleeding like that for brakes but if it works it works

I have always taken a small bit of tubing and put one end in a half empty bottle of fluid making sure it's submerged and the other end on the bleeder valve and just pumped refilled and pumped, hasn't not worked yet just have to make sure the master doesn't run out of fluid

I pulled one from a 1996 for my 1986 4.0 swap and every thing lined up and worked, the ducts were torn apart so I have to make new ones

I used herculiner for the side of mine and I'm planning to go to the local fabric shop and buying a rubber like carpet to use

The yoke looks the same but the clearance between the bolts and transfer case is way smaller than the yoke I pulled, I'm going to try again and it i can't get it off then it looks like I am in for a trip to the junkyard for a different transfer case

But is in the tight enough to snap two extensions even tried taking the crosmember out to not have to use a extension and still nothing, tried heating the nut up to