Jeepjeff859

So I went to the junk yard and grabbed a front drive shaft from a cherokee but when I got home I noticed it wouldn't fit the yoke on the transfer case, the yoke is a different style, the transtransfer case is a 231 j I got a from a cherokee. I went back to the junk yard and found the right yoke but now I can't get the nut off of the transfer case to swap them. Is the transfer case wrong or drive shaft?

Does it have a clutch pedal?

Well today I worked as long as possible on it and was able to drive it down the street, now it's fixing up all the loose ends

Here is some info about the early style AX15 With a internal slav At the bottom is a link to the bearing I had to use for a 1994 engine and a 1990 ish AX15 With with the smaller pilot bearing. I used rock auto to get most of the parts which showed most of clutch components had the same part numbers between years http://comancheclub.com/topic/47697-ax15-for-40-swap/?fromsearch=1

This is a link about messing with the fuel system. The pump mentioned worked out great for me and all I had to do was mount it and splice into the factory fuel pump wire http://comancheclub.com/topic/36900-fuel-cell/?hl=return%20line

http://comancheclub.com/topic/18588-xj-dash-harness-to-rear-mj-harness-wiring-guides/ This is another link that onlyinajeep726 sent me that was extremely helpful in getting started in the rear harness

http://comancheclub.com/topic/39539-links-for-25l-to-40l-swap/ This is a link that Onlyinajeep726 sent me to help me do a lot of research on what I need to start this project

It seems like there is information all over the place about this swap and I'm creating this as a place for people who have done it to post pictures on the way they did things I'm going to try to take pictures on all the mods I had to do and try to make detailed descriptions for each pictures

Something I have ran into during swap it how I am going to get the newer style brake light sensor to fit into the old pedal assembly Would it be easier to modify the wiring to work with the old style that goes on the pedal or would it be easier to build a bracket to hold the new style sensor?

Since the last post the project went from going good to a dead stop and then jumped to going amazing I had a lot of trouble getting transmission in and basically took all of August off from working on it. But I took a whole day this Tuesday and everything just seemed to go together List of things still have to do Modify rear drive shaft (already cut to length just have to weld) Get front drive shaft ( have one but for some reason the yoke on the transfer case is a different bolt style so I need a different one or different drive shaft) Bend clutch line a bleed clutch Wire up the rear lights Fixed the fuel sending unit, it's not reading any fuel Fix coolent temp gauge Finish up the interior wiring so the courtesy lights work and so the stereo works Weld exhaust on Clean up engine bay ( make sure all the wiring and lines are not rubbing or going to melt) Fit electric fan Weld up transmission tunnel Fix horns Seems like a long list but the engine starts and runs great the rest should go easy Pics will follow soon

Since the last post the project went from going good to a dead stop and then jumped to going amazing I had a lot of trouble getting transmission in and basically took all of August off from working on it. But I took a whole day this Tuesday and everything just seemed to go together List of things still have to do Modify rear drive shaft (already cut to length just have to weld) Get front drive shaft ( have one but for some reason the yoke on the transfer case is a different bolt style so I need a different one or different drive shaft) Bend clutch line a bleed clutch Wire up the rear lights Fixed the fuel sending unit, it's not reading any fuel Fix coolent temp gauge Finish up the interior wiring so the courtesy lights work and so the stereo works Weld exhaust on Clean up engine bay ( make sure all the wiring and lines are not rubbing or going to melt) Fit electric fan Weld up transmission tunnel Fix horns Seems like a long list but the engine starts and runs great the rest should go easy Pics will follow soon

Found out the problem I had to turn the key slightly back after starting so it would make the connections

So I am nearing the end of my 4.0 Swap and today I started it up an found when the engine is running none of the electrical accessories work (wipers, heater controls ect) but when the engine isn't running the do work..... any ideas ?

So I am on my 4th attempt at getting my transmission in.... as soon as I get the input shaft in to the clutch it won't go into the pilot bearing, I have tried wiggling it as much as I can but it won't go in any more, any tips or tricks?

http://comancheclub.com/topic/47697-ax15-for-40-swap/?fromsearch=1

I just did a ax15 swap using a 1991 ax15 and it had the smaller input shaft, I was using a 1994 engine so I looked up the specs for a 1994 pilot bearing then the specs for the 1991 pilot and has to order a bearing from advanced adapters, then I just went to auto zone and was able to find a Ford clutch tool that was 10 spline and was the right diameter

Has anyone tried a fuel cell in the bed with a after market pump and stainless steel lines before, I'm changing my plan from a good daily driver to a rock crawler and at some point I'm going to be ditching the long bed for a flat bed type set up and I want to already have the fuel cell working so I just have to bolt it down

Figured it out, NSS wasn't correct, now on to the fuel system

What do you mean by adjust it

I'm finishing up my electrical and trying to get it to start, when I turn the key nothing happens, I tested and I'm getting almost 13 volts to the starter relay, if I jump the terminals on the starter it moves, I have the NSS by passed with a jumper, any ideas

For any one looking to buy a bumper here is the one i got from affordable off road

Northern kentucky

Any one on here Located in the Northern Kentucky area?

Where does the green one plug into?

1995 xj