Jeepjeff859

found out the red wire from the alternator to the positive of the battery was really small and had a splice in the middle that as just tapped, it was a corroded. so that most have been not letting the alternator charge the battery enough. Went though and replaced every battery cable possible with 0 gauge wire. works fine now

Would really cause it to seem like the battery is completely dead, the engine won't even get a hit until the jumper cables were on for 2 min, and once it started it ran fine

New battery and alternator 3 weeks ago

I was driving to work and randomly my jeep shut off and had no power, but the turn signals worked, some one stopped and gave me a jump and it started and I was able to finish the drive to work, as soon as I got to worked and turned it off, it had no power again, I touched the computer and it was really hot, any ideas 1986 jeep Comanche 2.5 cyl

i also found that the previous owner had to put E3 spark plugs in it and they were destroyed so i went and got OEM champion spark plugs for it

A few weeks ago my jeep was running fine and the next day i went to start it and it would crank but wouldnt get spark. So i tested the coil and it tested bad. I replaced the coil with a cheap OEM style autozone coil and it started and ran fine right away, Now about 2 weeks later it won't start again. Is this a common problem, could something be killing these coils by not be hooked up right?

I am tossing around the idea of looking for a stronger transmission to swap in Are there any that wil bolt up to a 86 2.5 and be able to keep the 231 transfercase?

And the bolt holes on your master are vertical Mine are horizontal

The push rod on the master is about 4 in, I don't have a ruler around at the moment, and I'm starting to think that since I don't have that plastic cone on the slave that I'm losing the little bit of length needed to release the clutch

The clutch isn't disengaging fully so maybe the slave push rod is a bit shorter

I don't have the old one it was bent, but the pedal sits about a in past the brake pedal and with the old one it didn't

I'm talking about the push rod on the master cylinder that connects to the pedal

A while back i replaced the clutch disc, pressure plate, release bearing. clutch slave, and clutch master after i replaced the clutch master i noticed the clutch pedal now sits about 1 in. past the brake pedal like it as a shorter push rod. i have been having a problem getting a good clutch pedal. Could the shorter push rod not be giving me enough travel? could someone give me length of theirs so i can measure mine or maybe a part number ?

Thanks I try all of it

ok i have a 86 project and through hooking up a spark tester, determined there is no spark. what i know : just got a new exhaust manifold ( EGR hooked up ) ran before manifold was removed there is 12 volts constant through the coil and ignition module and to the distributor has all the correct wires going to it according to the wiring diagram. could it gave anything to do with the crank position sensor, it is looking a little gummed up? it also dumping fuel when trying to start. hooked it up to a snap on scanner and it said the coolant was -40 which is weird even with multiple heads we can't figure out how the distributor on the things work , the only wire going to it is the one from the coil, does it work off or grounding when it spins? any help would be great

yes i did but it ran after i put the trans back in and stopped running after i swapped the clutch master

the other day i replaced my clutch master cylinder and now the truck will crank all day long but won't start up. the only thing i can think of is it not getting spark because i can smell fuel. I did see a spark fly from the fuse box when i was sliding the push rod into the fire wall. Any Ideas?

Yes

any ideas on how to connect the push rod on the clutch master to the pedal?

yes i compared the two and the new one is the correct one. But i did realize after bleeding the clutch for a good while that the pedal is like stuck down a little bit and won't release all the way up even if pulled on

The truck is a 86 with external slave

Ok so I just put a new clutch in my jeep but now when I bleed it it goes from soft to very very stiff towards the end of the travel, do I just need to keep bleeding it to get it as stiff as possible?

maybe

i opened it all up today and there was grass and it was all covered in sludge in the bell housing. My guess is the last guy took it out and didnt clean it before putting back together. The pressure plate and clutch look fine the only weird thing was the sludge and grass

Ok so I was driving last night and everything was fine no noises weird noises from the truck or anything, I stopped at a stop light and forget to take it out of 1st before letting off the clutch because it was a long light so it stalled a little bit but I caught it be for it stalled and took it out of gear, then as light turned green i put in 1st and it didn't move then I noticed I didn't even have to push the clutch to shift through gears. I got out and pushed it with a friend to the side of the road and shut it off and put it into gear and tried to start it... It started right up So I don't need to push the clutch to shift gears but it won't move in any gear it just revs. Clutch fluid is full No leaks or holes in the tranny No weird noises Never had any problems and didn't drive it hard Didn't mess with the tranny for month New slave cylinder last month Any ideas because I'm about to go to the local junk yard and pull a 5 speed It's almost like there is no clutch touching the fly wheel Like it's gone or stuck But the pedal feels a little loose than what it was but not anything major