Jeepjeff859

when i did my 86 2.5 to 4.0 swap i made sure i kept the transmission control module and every bit of the wiring harness so theoretically i should only need a transmission, torque converter, transmission cooler and lines and then the shifter assembly right?

in the future (probably when my clutch goes out) I'm thinking about ditching the AX15 for a automatic. Can anyone point me to a thread about this or offer advice on what transmission and parts to look for? 1994 jeep grand cherokee engine 1986 comanche body NP231 transfer case

i look at it today and the CPS was pinched between the transmission tunnel and the transmission so beat back the tunnel alittle and replaced the sensor. It still runs a little rough so but I'm gonna let it idle for a little tomorrow and see if the computer adjusts

Also noticed most parts stores list a up stream and down stream o2 sensor . I only have a up stream since I don't have a cat

It's almost seems like something is telling the IAC to stay wide open is there a sensor that controls it somewhere else

I replaced the IAC and it's still doing it, I can't get it past idle or it stalls out

So my was when i was driving the engine would stumble and act like it was going to stall. Now it won't even idle. the second it starts up it sound like its misfiring like crazy and when i give it gas it stalls. at also back fires like crazy I have replaced the spark plugs , the TPS, i have check the fuel pressure and its getting the correct pressure. I made sure the spark plug wires are in order When i unplug the MAP sensor nothing changes, the same for the idle control, O2 sensor and TPS It sounds like it has a large vacuum leak coming from inside the throttle body. I took the throttle boy off and clean it with carb cleaner. i can't think of what would cause it and I'm about to just replace everything i can buy parts for. If it makes a difference i put a little die electric grease in the spark plug wires.

i don't have a renix, I'm going to start i new thread to recap on all of this

I replaced the TPS but now the engine won't start it just dies out

Ok I was confused the MFG says those are both inlets

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I tried that and it does jump to 40. My fuel system isn't the problem

I'm confused on how a fuel pressure regulator should be installed. i have one that has duel inlets so is it supposed to be installed after the fuel pump and then to the fuel rail or is it line from the fuel pump supposed to go straight to the fuel rail and the a line going to the regulator?

Ill will try it tomorrow its time to go to work now

Ill try to explain this best I can At idle it stays at 30-40 psi When driving it stays at 30-40 psi When ever I give it a little to much throttle while driving it falls on its face. If I baby it it won't do it until it gets to higher rpms, if I press the clutch in when it does it. It will stop. When its not moving it can rev all day Only thing I can think of if its not fuel or ignition would be the clutch not holding but I would think that would be at almost any rpm rang If this new regulator doesn't fix it then my next thought would be ignition coil and distributor

Just ran out and got a fuel pressure tester and not driving the fuel pressure stays around 30 while reving it

To recap I have a pump that can handle the 4.0 needs, I have fresh gas, now I have brand new spark plugs, made sure the tank has a good vent, but it is still doing it so my next step is the after market regulator

Oh crap I just relized when you said that that I left the caps on the new fuel cell, I'll try taking one of them off and see if it fixes it

Yeah it took me no time to install it, still need to take some time to get it adjusted just right

i replaced the spark plugs as well to see if it helped any.... it didnt

Maximum Free Flow Rate (gph): 40 Maximum Pressure Range (psi): 95 Minimum Free Flow Rate (gph): 30 Minimum Pressure Range (psi): 70

E2000

The local jeep nut where I live was telling me the reason it's doing it is the way the factory system was designed, he said the factory tank, pump, and fuel regulator were designed to work together. But when you change the pump and tank the factory regulator wasn't designed to work with that pump and tank so I need to find a way to put the factory pump in my fuel cell or I need to buy a aftermarket regulator

I just did a 4.0 swap and when ever I get to higher RPMs the engine starts to stubble like it's not getting enough fuel or it's getting to much. Any ideas? I'm running the ES2000 pump like most recommend with a fuel cell in the back along with -10 fuel line up to the pump