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Everything posted by teamsmith
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Who knows what this vacuum line goes to?
teamsmith replied to toid's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
It stops the flow of coolant through the heater core when vent or AC is selected. Oh, and the thing it's mostly noted for: Disintegrating at the most inopportune time and causing a huge coolant loss. Eliminate it. There is no downside. Cruiser, This thread got me curious to check and I see that I now have it with everything still connected. How do I bypass and how could a failure result in losing coolant? From where does the coolant flow out if the valve fails? Thanks -
I bought the v8 zj tie rod (long, short, sleeve) and regular mj/xj drag link for a total of about $120 after the 20% auto zone coupon.
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I read that it was built on an H1 chassis. Would be awesome for sure. There was a live action movie that had a couple of these.
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Thanks, Don. That is the language I was accustomed with the drag link connecting to the pitman but the catalogs reference right outer, left inner, etc. I just spent an hour at autozone pulling stuff off the shelf and looking at it. I believe I have successfully purchased the V8 ZJ tie rod and the regular drag link, all Moog. I dropped it all off at my garage since they offered to put it on as part of the alignment. So that gives me new coils, shocks, links, trackbar, LCA, and TR/DL. I really hope this will tighten the steering up. My nightly prayer generally includes this line: Lord, please let this be the last work needed on the jeep and... lord, please help me find a job that makes more money so I can buy more stuff for my jeep.
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I'm lost in product descriptions. Don't I want a left inner, right inner, and an adjusting sleeve? What is the right outer? Which one is the drag link?
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I brought my truck in to get an alignment after replacing springs, LCAs, shocks, and track bar. They tell me that the tie rods have too much play for them to align it and no one locally stocks them for a quick replacement which leaves me to order them. I've read that ZJ tie rods are an upgrade but If I'm going to order new I might as well go aftermarket. What are the aftermarket recommendations, keeping in mind that I would like to keep the price low. Thanks, Tim
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I beat a d35 axle bearing off and new one on with a cold chisel and a 4lb hammer and a good set of ear plugs. Be careful not to hit the shaft with the chisel. I tackled it over 2 nights.
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What do ya'll reckon one is worth, just out of curiosity? I have one that I keep meaning to reinstall but have not got around to it.
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http://chattanooga.craigslist.org/cto/5264080378.html
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W What do you reckon all that upfitting would cost? $15k plus the cost of a truck, plus know-how (that I don't have)?
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banks makes a version of the vm motori engine found in the ram, a630t, which looks pretty compact. I bet they want an arm and two legs for it. The price is listed as "call."
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Well that is pretty disappointing. I spent some time on the webpage, of the $10k discount, they say it only includes two $500 ($1,000 total) factory incentives. If they are pulling the stunt you say by including hard to qualify for incentives in the math table, that is enough to not want to deal with them for sure.
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What's the goal of this and how is it an improvement over the oe style that can be had for around $140 http://m.ebay.com/itm/Fuel-Gas-Tank-with-Straps-Set-Kit-18-Gallon-for-87-92-Jeep-Comanche-/351353900454?nav=SEARCH
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Good for you. out of curiosity, was he offering a better deal than the discounted prices listed on the site?
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Did you head over to the Kernersville dealership?
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Center Console block off plate
teamsmith replied to ggcnash's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
What does the extended Idle button do? -
HITCH PLATES!
teamsmith replied to krustyballer16's topic in Vendors- members making products for MJs
You should consider branding these. Just off the top of my head... -
Sounds like the fuel pump can't keep up. I have that problem when I get down to about 3/8 of a tank and my pump starts running loud enough to hear in the cabin. I think I installed the pump at a bad angle in my tank and it looses pickup.
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Now you're talking. $10k off retail without negotiating is pretty enticing. I'll bet you could still get them to throw in a new hat. The 8 speed is great; the German ZF 8HP70 is used in quite a lot of high end vehicles including: BMW 7 Series (F01), BMW X5 (E70), Dodge Durango V8, Jeep Grand Cherokee V8 & diesel, Ram 1500 V6, V8, & diesel, Range Rover Sport (2012), Rolls-Royce Phantom, Maserati Quattroporte (2013–), Dodge Charger V8 (2015-), Dodge Challenger V8 (2015-) If it's good enough for a half million dollar Phantom... Also, Maserati is using the VM 3.0 in their new small sedan, the Ghibli. http://www.allpar.com/mopar/V6/VM-RA-diesel.html http://www.maserati.com/maserati/en/en/index/models/ghibli/ghibli-diesel.html
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I agree with the Ram recommendation. There are some big discounts to be had that puts a fairly loaded quad cab Ram for less than $40k with the diesel and 8 speed. I have the Grand Cherokee with the same 3.0 diesel and 8 speed and I cannot say enough good things about it. The diesel noise is a little louder on the Ram than the jeep but otherwise is a very civilized ride. I do like the sporty look of the Canyon but it's hard to ignore the comparison against a highly discounted 2015. Below is a list from an area dealer that stocks a lot of Diesel Rams. http://www.31dodge.com/new-inventory/index.htm?start=0&make=Ram&model=1500&normalFuelType=Diesel&normalDriveLine=4WD&
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Thanks for the thoughts. I'm not offended, you're comments echo alot of what I have been thinking. I do not know a lot but I know understand that the 'simplicity of carbureted' is a misnomer. I for sure do not need an SJ, or any other vehicle, especially an old partially worn out vehicle. However, I have always liked the blunt instrument styling of the GW. When I was growing up as a part of a financially struggling family, I saw a couple of these in my town and saw them as some kind of symbol of success while still being rugged. It's just one of those things that are hard to let go of as an adult. Assuming the planned revised 2018 GW does come out that it is passably good looking and not outrageously overpriced, it is very likely that I will be ordering one when the banks open. Emissions is an issue; the owner lives in a non-emissions county so I do not know if it would pass and that would be a hurdle every year. It is old enough for antique tags though. I didn't mean to include the bloomberg article as my sole/main motivation. I was just including it as additional material for reaction.
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I'm sure we've all read the rumors that a new GW is coming in 2018 and there was an article on bloomberg with the headline "Now is the best time to buy an '84-91' GW." http://www.bloomberg.com/news/articles/2015-08-26/why-now-s-the-time-to-buy-a-1984-1991-jeep-grand-wagoneer Bringatrailer.com just sold a '91 with polished up paint and visible rust concerns at the cab corners and doors for $5600. http://bringatrailer.com/listing/1991-jeep-grand-wagoneer/ I've seen a couple of these pop up but this one has caught my eye because a: it's cheap and b: the seller tells me there is absolutely no rust. '88s are presumably less desirable than '91s http://chattanooga.craigslist.org/cto/5256005518.html The fact that I'm worried about having that post-purchase sinking feeling that I got in over my head tells me that I should just put it out of my head and move along. I am finally crawling out from under this MJ project and daily driving it; getting crushed by a new, unfamiliar, can of worms is discouraging but I am still, inexplicably, drawn to the challenge. I realize there are many SJ forums with lots of newbie FAQs etc. I have spent hours reading those but I'm just putting this out there to get opinions from a familiar crowd.
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After market chrome front bumpers
teamsmith replied to madmax's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
I got mine off eBay, bare bumper for $40. I could not tell any difference between the dented OE that I pulled off. I reused the brackets and corners, everything lined up -
Why do I keep exploding clutch slave cylinders?
teamsmith replied to terrawombat's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
I have read about some slaves being a touch short which leads to a slight over extension and premature wear. I have heard that a fix is to place a small spacer behind the slave to get it closer to the clutch. I don't have personal experience with this but I do know your pain as I recently went thru 3 slaves in two weeks before paying for a Luk which seems to be working.
