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teamsmith

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Everything posted by teamsmith

  1. teamsmith
    I cannot find the Luk slave sold separately. Any idea? I can only find the complete kit. It's about $115 on amazon for the whole thing but I don't need the clutch since I just replaced it. Nevermind, I found it. Luk internal slave part # is LSC269. It's $76 on RockAuto, which is half of what Napa charges. Does anyone thing the Napa product would be a better choice? I have read some good reports on the Luk product.
  2. teamsmith
    what about this one from Napa? It's the same price as the Advance Adapters Model: http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Clutch-Slave-Cylinder/_/R-NCF73269_0315051153 Thoughts? Anyone?
  3. teamsmith
    Hello, I've ready people say I should only replace an internal slave with 'quality' or 'oem', etc. I cannot find a Mopar as I don't think they're made anymore. What is the best afternmarket? I know I should be swapping for an Ax15 and I am looking into pricing up that swap but, for now, I would like to get direction on what slave is the best one. I see a Crown model with the original Mopar part # here: $98, $125 @ 4WD.com http://www.amazon.com/Crown-Automotive-83503383-Clutch-Control/dp/B00B8X67KU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1439220081&sr=8-1&keywords=83503383 Advance Adapters also sells one under their own part # 716214 $150 http://www.advanceadapters.com/products/716214--stock-puegeot-internal-hyraulic-release-bearing/ Would the AA be the best bet? Crown? Something else? Thanks for the direction.
  4. teamsmith
    It would make a great set for a low budget slasher film. After seeing the pictures of the inside of the 'sleeper', I am guaranteed to have nightmares. I don't want to think about what's inside that cooler or what implements of death are in the bedside toolbox.
  5. teamsmith
    i got mine at ACE Hardware. I had to lengthen the wire by about a foot.
  6. teamsmith
    Maybe they were prototyping a new Popemobile for when Francis might decide to visit the southern United States. Nothing says 'for the people' like a modified XJ.
  7. teamsmith
    it usually takes me a good 30 minutes of wiggling and jacking the engine up/ transmission down while turning the TC output shaft with the drive shaft to get it all to line up and slide in. I took some long all thread and made some guide pins to force the transmission to line up with the engine. It worked like a charm.
  8. teamsmith
    If my lever is just dangling loose in the 6 o'clock position, does it mean I'm getting less brake than I should of my bed is full?
  9. teamsmith
    That was my thought. My motor hung by its mounts for a couple days while I goofed around with the tranny. It probably put some stress on the mounts but I wasn't concerned
  10. teamsmith
    My biggest challenge with a transmission removal / install is getting the transmission input shaft to line up with the pilot bushiing and slide all the way in. It may be harder since I am using a pilot bushing vs. the majority with the more inset bearings but I thought I would post up a trick that allowed me to quickly reinstall the transmission last night. 12" 7/16 and 6" 3/8 all thread, screwed in hand tight to the bell housing for use as alignment guides. I wish I had taken a pic of them in the bellhousing. the 7/16 go in the holes on the side of the engine and the 3/8 goes in place of the top bolts. Be careful not to put weight on the rods, especially when you are far out on the 7/16 because you might damage the threads in the engine. I was amazed at how smoothly the tranny slid right into home without all the drama that I usually experience.
  11. teamsmith
    I decided that 7/16x14 was the closest thread I could find to the studs but that's not it; I'm pretty sure it's metric but none of my dies would fit them. I recut the one post that I messed up (from double nutting to remove the plate) and a 7/16x14 nut is a touch loose on the recut stud so I'll use JB weld on it to keep it from moving. On removing the front retainer plate to replace the front seal; the studs come off pretty easily with a torch applied to the side of the aluminum housing and doubling up on the nuts. The front shaft feels nice and tight in the new seal where it used to have a lot of play. The bearing itself seems to be in good shape but I wasn't prepared to tear into the housing to replace it anyway. I'm hopeful this will solve my trail of gear oil that I leave going down the highway and the puddle that accumulates when I park it.
  12. teamsmith
    Chrysler # 04897036AA, old # 83503236 The part is discontinued everywhere and I cannot find where the threads were ever mentioned. The part number is for the 5 studs on the front retainer plate on a BA10/5. I'm pretty sure they're m10 but I didn't have a die with me last night that had the correct pitch. Please don't ask me why I'm working on a ba10; I'm asking that myself too much already.
  13. teamsmith
    Yes that is a simple fix. I have found that AutoZone has the wrong seal listed for the output shaft but advance and oreillys have the correct one. Just be sure what you get looks like what you're replacing.
  14. teamsmith
    Is your transfer case leaking as well or are you just topping off?
  15. teamsmith
    Dextron 3 or equivalent , ATF + 4 came later . I'm pretty sure any of the ATF's work fine. some people run 10w30 motor oil. I put ATF4 in mine.
  16. teamsmith
    Ooh, ooh, I'm pretty sure I know this one: The 231 transfer case takes ATF-4.
  17. teamsmith
    My mistake on missing that you had a 4cyl. I'll defer to everything 87mj says.
  18. teamsmith
    Gasoline leak is not normal. Be sure to get gl4 gear oil. Gl5 is no good for the ax15
  19. teamsmith
    here's a writeup on the AX-15 fluid change; should help you locate ports. http://www.stu-offroad.com/engine/ax-15/ax-15-1.htm
  20. teamsmith
  21. teamsmith
    gear oil can be black. Others are smarter than me on this but I will chime in. You can check your gear oil by opening the fill port and sticking your finger in to get a sample and compare. If it is your gear oil, you'll have to pull the transmission, remove the bellhousing, then remove the input seal retainer (small plate on the face of the transmission) then swap seals. You won't have to touch your clutch but you might ought to think about putting on a new one while you're in there. Mine leaks pretty bad but only when the engine is warm. I'm not sure if your AX-15 has a vent line but if it does, you might check if that is blocked. Others might chime in here as I have the older style which does have a vent line (mine was not clogged).
  22. teamsmith
    make sure it is engine oil and not transmission gear oil; your transmission input seal could be leaking out of the bellhousing (like mine is).
  23. teamsmith
    So here is another question: Do you think I can accurately measure the angle of the pinion relative to the perches as they are sit on my D35 and weld the perches onto the axle prior to installation? I would worry that the extra thickness of the 8.25 might effect that angle. If I can't bolt up the rear and drive it to a welder or weld using measurements, it sounds like I will need to find a welder who makes house calls. Regarding the DS, it looks like a comanche with an AW4/231/D35 has a 1" shorter shaft.
  24. teamsmith
    Hi all, I have read several threads on the 8.25 swap but have a few clarifying questions on the overall process. I plan to install an 8.25, staying SUA, with a 1" lift shackle with the idea of going to a GS MT spring pack later on. rear brakes will stay the stock drums. --Brake lines: am I good on existing brake lines from the comanche? They will screw into whatever is attached to the drums on the 8.25? ---Emergency brake: will I need any adapters or plates to fit the cable from the MJ? ---Driveshaft length: with a 1" lift shackle on semi-tired springs, do you reckon the yoke will bang on the back of TC? If yes, how much lift do I need to use to my existing DS? ---Pinion alignment/rear axle install: Can I install the axle by: 1. loosely attaching new perch brackets and u-bolts to properly align the pinion 2. tighten down u-bolts 3. Drive somewhere that can weld the perches to the axle as it sits Or do I need to: 1. Loosely install perches 2. Mark axle for places to weld perches 3. uninstall everything and weld perches Ideally, I'd like to drive it under the support of u-bolts only, but fully installed, to guy who can weld it all in place. That may be wishful thinking. Thank you all for the great advice.
  25. teamsmith
    I found another write up and apparently it's just a couple of studs that holds on a bearing retainer and it pops off pretty easy. I hope to get into it next weekend.
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