teamsmith

I do recall that there is quite a bit of play in the input shaft. How hard, in general, is it to change a front bearing? I really don't want to put a ton of time/money into a transmisson that will likely not last long anyway but I would like to stop this leak.

I pulled the vent hose and ran a wire through it from end to end, no obstruction. The hose was dry though, only the tip of the end that is inserted in the case had fluid in it. I guess the seal is compromised to the point that pressure doesn't need to be relieved through the vent line. I guess I have another tranny pull ahead of me

thanks. It does have a vent line; I checked to see if the metal ends were clogged but it is a good idea to pull the hose off and make it sure blows clear. It would be great if there is a blockage is the contributing to the leak. I did add a bottle of Lucas Tranny fix and it shifts a lot better than it did, but I think it was low on fluid before.

I used a WJ booster from an '02. It was easy peasy; probably the only install I've done so far where nothing went wrong.

I have not cleaned the tb or the has sensor yet, it's on the list. I was more interested if there were any issue with leaving the egr lines all hooked up even though the port from the exhaust is plugged. I moved to an ho engine and used the ho exhaust manifold so I don't have a comparison of bedore/after. The idle is not bad but drops below 600, touches 200, the pops back up to 600. Running accesories doesn't effect it. I will definitely clean the tb soon and will plan on buying a plug for my egr valve port.

So I have plugged the port on the bottom of the intake that goes to the egr valve but have so far left all other vacuum lines hooked up. What hoses should I disconnect and plug? Is it ok that I leave everything connected? I'm currently dealing with a hunting idle that bounces from 200-500 and wonder if this could be related. Thoughts?

So I had my transmission out twice while wrestling with an engine swap and failed to address a leaking front seal in the transmission that would have taken all of 20 minutes to replace. I would really like to take a break from pulling transmissions: -Would thicker oil (by use of some STP or Lucas treament) reduce the leak? Has anyone had good luck with the Lucas stop leak stuff? It only leaks when the engine is hot. When I go on a drive and come back it drips a pretty good puddle down from the bell housing but stops after a couple of minutes. I figure that's from the thermal expansion driving the fluid out of the seal. I also figure that adding STP/Lucas probably won't make much difference but I thought I'd ask here. I've already got a new seal on order. I stopped by the local redneck jeep place to see about paying them to do the install but they want $350 labor; I figure that's worth me doing it myself(again).

I would likely be in for a set.

I need a ba10 bellhousing. Anybody got one for cheap in the southeast, maybe a leftover from a swap? I already know that if I'm going to do the work I should look for an ax15 but that's not gonna happen right now. Thanks

thanks. I'll check the wiring. Very well could be that we snagged it during the install.

I've taken my truck out on the road for the first time following the engine swap. Renix computer, 98 4.0. I'm reusing the renix oil pressure sender. When I start the truck, oil pressure is about 60 and settles to about 50 at idle. However, it seems to fluctuate based on pushing the gas pedal. I can make the needle move by revving it. Also,when I'm coasting downhill in gear the needle floats up to the max. It never drops below 40 (center of dial). Also, the needle movement seems to be a little 'floaty' like it moves fairly erratically instead of gradually. Could something be wrong with my sender? It just seems odd that it's bouncing around like that. I have new oil in the engine. Any thoughts?

87warrior, what springs are you running up front? I'm now looking at the slightly shorter shock 24-185622 Don's old front is a 24-188197 with 14.98-24.61 heights and is recommended for 3-4" of lift. The 24-185622 front is 13.58-22.09 and is recommended for 2-3" of lift Thoughts? I know the smart thing to do would be to install my springs and measure but I'd really like to do it all at once. It also sound likes going with a GS MT leaf pack will be the way to go to get about 2" of rear lift.

It sounds like you are setup correctly on the flywheel. The only advice I can offer on the pilot bearing is to make sure it slides on your transmission shaft before beating it in your crank.

Ok. I'm gonna rethink the plan. I already have the coils. Best course would probably be to install the coils, take measurements, then go from there.

What harness and ECU are you using? Are you using the harness and computer from the '93 ZJ or from something else? My point was that I believe you have to match your flywheel to the computer that you're using. If you're gonna run renix, you'll need a renix flywheel. If you're going OBD1, you'll need a flywheel from an OBD1.

others will chime in with better info than me but I believe you need to match the flywheel to your timing system. If you are using the renix ECU, you will need a flywheel from a renix so that your CPS will read the wheel correctly. An internal slave Ax-15 could be renix but is most likely OBD1.

Don, I see that you went with the 5125 shock for the rear. Would that have been stiffer than going with 5100, or is a 5100 not available in the length and mounting specs you needed? Thanks

Thanks for all the advice. I have heard over and over the quality of OME are unparalleled but I do have a nice comfortable ride for my daily driver and this will ultimately be a toy or Home Depot hauler. I reached out to Devin at 4WD and he's pushing me to the Procomp shocks because of their Buy 3 get 1 rebate promotion. He also has the R/E RE1600 trackbar for cheaper than anywhere I've seen and a lot less than the terraflex. However, it says it's for 2.5" to 5.5" lift. With me being on the bottom end of that range (or possibly below), would that be a problem? Thanks again

Don, thanks for the advice. OME's @ ~$105ea are not in the cards vs. Bilsteins @ ~$67ea. I saw a post of yours from about 3 years ago where you put on Bilsteins and, at the time, said you liked them better than your OME. What happened since then that has changed your mind?

Does anyone have an opinion on the Rancho 7000 mono tubes? I only ask because they have a rebate going where you basically buy 3 get one free.

Thanks.I will plan to disconnect the axle to get the springs in there. Can I do it one side at a time? I envision jacking the whole front end up and setting the frame rails on jack stands, then using my jack to further increase the height of one side at a time and disconnect that control arm, install springs/shocks, then reconnect control arms. I guess while I have it apart I should replace the control arm bushing. Which arms will I be disconnecting, just the lca to the frame, or the UCA as well? Now this has me thinking to replace the LCA's with WJ models since I'll have them out. This jeep continues to be an expensive rabbit hole. Is there any year WJ that is better for the LCA? It seems like I can also use a trackbar or tie rod from the WJ. There are a couple WJ's being parted out in town so I should nab what I can.

Jeep Driver. Thanks for the comments. I saw your other post with the negative review of the Moog Springs. Unfortunately, I've already got the Moogs sitting in my garage. However, I ordered the different spring than you. I believe you got the CC782 (XJ Upcountry / ZJ V8 stock) and I got the CC784 (ZJ V8 Upcountry) so there is hope that the stiff V8 Upcountry springs will not be as slushy as you say. I may still live to regret it. The ACOS looks great, but I don't have $250 to spend on a spring adjuster. This 'hobby' truck has already gotten way out of control. I got the truck for free but have somehow managed to spend $5500 to get it road worthy. Most of that was spent $40-$80 at a time.

First I want to thank all of you for providing the threads with part numbers for various shocks with accompanying lift heights. Now that my truck is running, I am planning to put new spings / shocks on it. Starting with the front, I've landed on: Springs: Moog CC784 (V8 ZJ Upcountry) which will reportedly net me about 2-2.5" lift over stock. If I find a nice used Warn or ARB bumper I will put that on and will likely net about 1.5" lift. Shocks: Bilstein 5100 series 24-188197 Spring Insulators: Onix Oe replacement While I'm under there replacing those items, are there any other things I will need to replace? Other mounting bushings? When looking at the shock top mount through the engine bay, I see that the rubber grommet that the shock bolts to is all cracked. Will a new one of those come with my shock? With regards to installation process, I figure I can jack the truck up as high as I can and take the wheel off which will allow me to flex the control arms enough out of the way to pull the old springs out and put the new ones in. Does that sound right? For the rear, I'm thinking the 3" HC pack and the Bilstein 33-185606 (5125 series). Does that sound right or do I need a longer shock to accommodate the 3" pack? I don't mind a little rake in the truck but do you think the rear might be too high? If it is, I assume I can go back up front and put in spacers, but, know that going in, would that then effect my front shock choice? will I need extended brake lines for the front and/or rear with my parts decisions? I figure I'll need an adjustable trackbar to realign the front; will any other linkage parts be effected at that height? Thank you all in advance

prop_kulture out of canada makes them. They sell on ebay. below is a link to a closed auction for a set of hockey stick stripes. You could probably have them make you up a set. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1987-92-MJ-JEEP-COMANCHE-PICKUP-PIONEER-HOCKEY-STICK-STRIPE-DECALS-STICKER-/381026061289?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_2&hash=item58b6ec4be9

So here's one for the books: This morning I pulled my tranny and offed the clutch to see if, in fact, I was an dunce and had installed it backwards. I did not install backwards! There was a note on my clutch plate indicating which side goes to the flywheel. So I was stumped. Luckily, I had saved the old clutch so I could compare. New clutch on the left, old on the right. Note that the splined collar is longer on the new clutch. Since I'm using a '98 motor with an '89 BA10, I had to use a pilot bushing which fills in the recess in the crank. Since I couldn't figure anything else out, I wondered if the longer splined collar on the new clutch might be hitting the bushing and preventing the clutch from slipping on the pressure plate or the spring to release on the pressure plate. To test my idea, I chalked the end of the collar with blue grease and set it in place to see if it would mark the bushing. It did not. However, since I couldn't think of anything else that could possibly be the cause, and because the old clutch was actually in good shape, I decided to put the old clutch back in. 3 hours later... success!! the pedal had very little pressure but I was able to get it in 1st and 2nd. After a couple bleeds I had good pedal feel and I could shift in all gears. Finally, after 4 months of off/on work, the Comanche lives! Hopefully this will help others who have needed to use a pilot bushing instead of a bearing; Be sure the clutch plate does not have the extended collar on the spline. Mine was a Valeo and I only got it because it was on closeout through RockAuto. I really only needed a new slave but bought the whole kit because of the sale price. live and learn. now I just need to put the front clip back on and adapt the temp sensor to the t-stat housing and I'll be good to go. thank you all for your advice so far. Also, I tried to put the clutch in backward and the space within my '89 flywheel would not allow the center 'hat' of the clutch disc to sit flush. At least in my case, I do not think it could easily go in backward.