teamsmith

Thank you sir. I really appreciate you spelling it out. To clarify, this will net me a bit of lift, but not enough to need to replace the typical components of a 'lift kit' such as U/L CA's, brackets, etc.? Are there any ARB/OME vendors that are friendly to Comanche Club and willing to give any break on list price? Thanks again. Your truck is up there with my favorites on here; very classy. Mine has a ways to go. I did get the heater working over the weekend; baby steps. :) Line of questioning moved to the more relevant 'favorite coil spring thread'...

Hornbrod, Will you tell me exactly what springs and shocks your ordered from OME? I believe I'm finally to a point to address my sagging suspension and blown shocks. Yours is a stance I would be very happy with. Here is how she stands now, with 30's. I can tell, just by looking, that the drivers coil spring is collapsed more than the passenger's, creating a touch of catti-wumpus. When I had an alignment done, they confirmed that it was indeed more collapsed. It had been wrecked on the drivers side when I got ahold of it, which likely explains that. I've read that I can use the springs out of a v8 SJ to prop it up bit more than stock. How would they compare to the OME springs?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1987-92-MJ-JEEP-COMANCHE-PICKUP-PIONEER-HOCKEY-STICK-STRIPE-DECALS-STICKER-/381026061289?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_2&hash=item58b6ec4be9 I emailed and called these guys (prop kulture) for weeks last summer about making them but never got a response. Now they are making them and I don't have money for stickers. One day...

I would like to do the same. I see that the difference between the 6020 and 6020M in the inclusion of mono-tube shocks in the M. Are you able to use the rear shocks out of this kit? If not, what shocks are you using?

How much are you wanting for this and where are you located?

http://comancheclub.com/topic/16955-adjustable-mj-load-sensing-valve/ Interesting.Thanks.I'll add that to my list of stuff to figure out.

Thanks alot.I'll have a look.I imagine that the leak is due to my messing up the old seal while changing the bearing the first time. Another question: what is that metal rod that connects to the side of the diff? My diff has the little bracket on the bolts and the upper bracket is hanging loose. Is it related to the spare tire holder?

Thanks, horn. Can you give a hint where I might find the vent tube?

I pulled the axle back out and, sure enough, there is a seal just inside where the bearing race sits. I had to improvise for a puller but did use the proper seal driver to beat it into the axle tube. With it all back together I'm no longer leaking gear oil. I would be happier if I didn't suddenly have a low voltage problem. It seems my problems seem to wait until one is solved before the next shows up so I always feel like I'm only one fix away from having a problem free jeep

Thank you, I just found that link. Now I have a clarifying question and, unfortunately, need to reveal my own stupidity. Last month I replaced bearings and outer seal, ignorant of the existence of an inner seal. Stupidly, I installed the outer seal backwards with the taper facing the wrong way. I now have diff fluid leaking. After reading the above linked thread, should the inner seal keep the diff fluid in the diff? Does that mean that maybe I messed up the inner seal or that it's disintegrated since it wasn't on the shaft when I removed it? I would be very happy to learn that I will not need to remove the bearing again. I understand the proper thing to do would be to take the bearing off and flip it but I only have a cold chisel and a hammer and I really don't want to go through that again if I can stop the leak by installing the inner seal.

The parts store offers an 'inner oil seal' on a Dana 35 bolt on axle but when I pull out my axle, I only see the bearing keeper, bearing, and outer oil seal. Is the inner seal up inside the axle or am I reading a spec for a different year model D35? I'm doing the change because I'm leaking diff fluid and want to make sure I'm changing all the seals.

Ok, that sounds promising. What is involved I in swapping knuckles? Do I need special equipment for that?

The hubs in the Comanche D30 are different than the later model D30's. You will not be able to reuse your new hubs on the "new" axle. I think there are also differences in the brakes. Its probably in your best interest to assume that parts outside the knuckles will not interchange between axles. SOA with an 8.25 netted me over 6" of lift and my rear leafs were in pretty good shape. With that much lift, you will need to upgrade a number of other steering/drive line/suspensions parts for everything to work correctly. $400 for a set of XJ axles (29 spline 8.25) is a little on the high side, but if the brakes and unit bearings are in good shape, its pretty fair. I wouldn't bother with a 27 spline 8.25 f I were you. Its not really a significant upgrade. thank you for the guidance. That is disappointing on the hub incompatibility; I thought a D30 was a D30. Rockauto agrees, different part numbers for the Timken hubs. My front end is actually fine, with new brakes/rotors/calipers and Timken hubs. The only problem is that it's 3.07 and I need to match it to a rear. 6+" of lift is more than I want to deal with, so it looks like I'll be staying SUA and trying to hunt for a 3.07 rear to replace my 'popping without stopping' rear end.

thanks. and about how much lift will I get from the SOA? ~4"? I looked at your build thread, it was jacked up pretty high vs. the stock front. How much lift did you put in the front to even it out?

Leist, I'm planning to and try and pull all this together over Christmas. I've found a guy asking $400 for a D30/8.25 3.55 with driveshaft from a '98 with 80k miles. That's a little more than I want to pay but we're still talking. Assuming I go SOA, I will still need new perches, because the widths are different, correct?

ok, thanks. I was just starting to look at gear prices. Also, since this is from a '98, it will have the bigger U-joints. If it's a non-CAD, that will probably be the clincher.

It's all exactly the same. All MJs used a high pinion D30. All MJ suspension and steering components are the same as XJ. It's not an upgrade in any way, but it should be an easy bolt-in swap. Thanks, Eagle. Very helpful. I must have misread that our trucks have low pinion. So maybe it's not worth it and I should just look to re-gear my existing D30 to match the rear.

I have found a guy selling a complete HPD30 with 3.55 which will go well with a separate deal I've found for a '95 C8.25 (C-clip 27spline) rear end running 3.55. Regarding the front end: It's complete with shocks, springs, and steering components, brakes, etc. It had 80,000 miles when pulled. Question: Can I use the springs/shocks/steering on my MJ (stock height)? Is the steering considered an upgrade? Are the brakes better? Will the high pinion bolt right up? I just replaced the hubs on my D30 with Timkens but I assume I can reuse those since it should be the same setup. I'm just trying to understand the full 'value' to me of what he's selling. I got the price for 8.25 down to $50 drum-to-drum which seems pretty good, even though it's C-clip with the weaker splines. This guy is asking $250 for the D30 assembly I but I haven't negotiated. Honestly, I'm a little nervous to get into this because swapping axles, welding perches, etc. seems pretty daunting.

I don't have any answers for shock length but 'TRT30' is a 30% coupon code for Advanced that ever expires. I use it when I don't have the patience to wait on Rockauto to ship. Have you checked Rockauto prices?

I'm about to change the rear axle bearing in my D35. When I pull the axle, will all the diff fluid come running out behind it? It's not a C-clip so I don't need to open the diff. I'll have a bucket ready to catch the fluid but none of the write ups I've read mention it. Thanks

Thanks. I may go ahead and pick it up. At only $100 for a drum-to-drum 8.25, it seems too cheap to pass up. It looks like I will one day be replacing the whole drive train since an AX-15 swap will require a TC and bell housing. Can I reuse my existing driveshaft? I currently have no lift (probably negative lift with my tired springs and blown shocks) but one day I will probably do a 3" lift.

ok thanks, I'll look for the tag. I figured I could lift the rear end and count the rotations but the difference between 3.07 and 3.55 might be within the margin of error on my slide rule.

I found a local guy with an 8.25 running 3.55 gears for cheap. How can I tell what gears are in my truck? Also, aside from rewelding spring perches, is there anything else I need? Can I reuse my driveshaft? Thanks

@rely The passenger front wheel is not a ten hole so you wouldn't get a set. I am tempted to run down there this weekend and see what he'll part with instead of hauling the whole thing home. @Neohic what calls it out as not being a 91?

http://atlanta.craigslist.org/nat/cto/4765480205.html I'm tempted to get it for the buckets/center console, receiver hitch, and AX-15 but I don't see myself having enough free time in the near future to run down there with a trailer.