teamsmith

After further reading, I see that the GAWR of the Dana 35 is 2,770 lbs and D44 is 3,500 lbs. The difference being 730, or about the difference between 2200 and 1400. That is disappointing; I had hoped that at least some of the difference was in the springs.

The factory specs I found say that the standard SWB has 1400 payload capacity and the MT package gives it 2200 pound capacity. I'm planning to put MT springs from GS on my truck but will still have the D35. anyone have thoughts on how much the D35 can handle? I'm not planning to build a house on the back, just trying to understand how much dirt I can haul. The SWB will hold a cubic yard of top soil which weighs 1700-2000 pounds, depending on dampness. I'll probably do it anyway but was curious how much I had to worry about stress to the D35.

You sir are correct. My 1989 Wagoneer had this clip. After much searching found one for my 91 XJ. I've only seen them on Renix era XJs. Finally found one for my MJ. What did I win? Internet notoriety, bragging rights, and personal satisfaction! or maybe it will just cancel out a couple of the dumb questions I've asked on here in the past year.

You sir are correct. My 1989 Wagoneer had this clip. After much searching found one for my 91 XJ. I've only seen them on Renix era XJs. Finally found one for my MJ. What did I win?

not sure about the screw or the flooring, but the clip looks like what holds the distributor wire to the motor mount bracket.

I have had the hardest time with the simplest tasks in my motor swap. With my luck, I'll have to cut the nut off the stud. Hey BlueX, you look like you have an ARB front bumper on the truck in your sig. Any idea what the difference between the bumper made for 84-96 and 97+ Cherokee? There's one for a 97+ on Craigslist that I'd be interested in if it would bolt up. I assume there's a reason ARB made two different models. Any idea how much this beast weighs? Edit; Nevermind, I found my answer on Naxja. Longer sides. I was hoping the ARB would mount up without having to trim but it looks like even the correct model made for the earlier design would still require cutting

yes. I ordered the thingy-bob assembly. I hope it comes pre-assembled; it looks complicated.

thanks. I went ahead and ordered one from Amazon. I was hoping there was another, cheaper, answer.

So I have finally lowered my replacement engine out of a '98 into the Comanche. I had installed the knock sensor prior to installation and when the weight shifted a bit the motor mount bracket broke the sensor in half. When I look on Rockauto, the knock sensor they list looks nothing like what I have. Mine was a black cylinder with a Fuel injector connector on the back, the one on Rockauto looks more like a flat dome shape with a hole in the middle for a bolt to slide through. Also, they're $55 through Rockauto. Any chance there is a place to get the old style for less money anywhere, besides a junkyard? mine looked like this before it broke: The only ones I can find look like this. I'm assuming this new style works but would like verification that I'm looking at the right thing. Thanks for your help

Noriyori, Do you happen to have a write up this with a bit more detail, possibly pics? I think your explanation is pretty clear but more is always better. I finally got my engine in my truck and am in the process of hooking things back up. I would love to do away with the harness. Did you have to run a new line from MAP to TB or use existing? Same question for the line from the manifold to the vacuum ball. Also, I have an antique tag so no worries on emissions. Thanks!

I got the cables. All is well. Jon is a great guy and makes a quality product. I just need more patience.

I paid Jon on 2/18 for a set of cables. I've not been in too much of a hurry because my replacement engine is still on in the truck but I have checked on the order a couple times to see what the hold up is. He's been prompt to respond and say he's hit a delay, but each time promising 'next week.' I've heard nothing but good things about his cables but I feel 2 months is a pretty long leash. Anybody else have experiences with Jon? I paid through paypal so I can always seek a resolution there (assuming he has a bank account with money in it) but I'd really rather have the cables.

That is an amazing build for sure. I would need to put a glow in the dark note on the inside lid for when I wake up, disoriented, in the middle of the night that reads, "Calm down! You have not been buried alive inside an ice cream freezer!"

I saw your ad in the classifieds; so you're asking more for your transmission than you were for the whole truck?

Wow, great videos! Thanks so much for sharing these! As a surfer, I loved the surfing, as a cinematographer, I loved the cinematography, and of course as an mj owner, I loved the mj – very clean. Does this guy have a build thread here on comanche club?? There's a bit more info on Teva's website here: http://www.teva.com/blog?postid=escape-from-bigfoot-country-the-adventure-of-woody-the-blue-ox-part-ii The photographer was Jeremy Koreski; he has some additional photos here: http://www.jeremykoreski.com/NEW-WORK/WOODYANDTHEBLUEOX/thumbs Lastly, I picked up Trevor's videos from following a blog called the restless transplant, which is about a different guy who lives out of his camper and surfs. http://www.arestlesstransplant.com/

Here's a wonderfully shot video of a guy who made his own drop-in style camper for his longbed. Not much of an instructional but a great video, nonetheless. A 23 year old kid, living in his truck on his way to epic surf destinations. The things I could have done if my parents had been wealthy. They say, "I'm better off," to which I retort, "Of course you'd say that." Chapter 1 https://vimeo.com/86202138 Chapter 2 https://vimeo.com/87474667

Thanks guys. I appreciate the wealth of answers. I found on NAXJA that the downpipe port calls for a 7/8 x 18 so I assumed the intake side would be SAE as well. I was about to order a oil drain plug from a 1963 Jeep off OReilly's based off that information. Maybe 7/8 and 22mm are so close you can get them both into the hole? http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1042154 So I guess I'll order the plug from the Bavarian. I haven't ordered from them since I gave up on chasing gremlins in my E60 and traded it in. Ah the memories. Thanks again.

Thanks cruiser. Any idea what thread size i need to plug the port on the intake? It looks like maybe one inch. Thanks

A question regarding the egr:my plan is to use the ho exhaust manifold and renix intake, is it ok that i plug the egr port on the manifold and plug all the vacuum lines for the egr? I worry that my o2 sensor will read wrong and cause a lean condition. Thanks

thank you for the pic. I will make sure all bolts are removed. We were giving it what for last night yanking on the engine, so sure we were that it was just the input shaft stuck in the bearing. Hopefuly we haven't done too much damage. I'm reminded of a leadership parable in which a task is assigned to a team of four to blaze a trail through the jungle. 3 guys don't waste a moment to pick up their machetes and start chopping while the fourth climbs a tree to see what direction they need to go, what obstacles lay ahead, etc.

I did pull the starter. So that's what goes in the hole? That really had me scratching my head. I learn something new every time I log in here. It would make sense the shield is in two pieces and I'm glad I don't have to wiggle the top one out; I have no idea how I would get to it.

Arghh. I think understand now and it's frustratingly simple. I've watched videos and read write-ups and have a copy of the FSM, but I have not been able to visualize exactly what the interface looked like on the back of the engine with regard to connection to the flywheel, clutch, etc. Now I know that I must get the shield off. Do the bolts that hold the CPS onto the bell go through the shield (meaning, do I need to remove it as well)? With regard to the round hole in the shield, is nothing meant to cover that? I saw it and assumed that a cover had gone missing. It seems pretty exposed for sucking in filth and debris. Thanks again for the help guys. I am hopeful that the new engine will go in easier since so many of these unknowns are being worked out on the way out.

I only found four, two lower long bolts that go through the guide pins and two upper e12 bolts. Where are the other two?

I may not be sure what you're talking about. When looking at the bottom of the bell, there is an inspection hole about 3 inches in diameter When I saw that, I assumed the hole was the inspection port and that the cover had previously been removed. Are you saying the two bolts on the very bottom that holds the shield to the bell is somehow attached to the engine?

So I spent three hours tonight trying to wrestle the engine loose from the bell housing but it won't budge. I removed all four bolts from the bell housing and pulled the engine enough to see a small gap from the engine bolt holes and the bell, but its like something is hanging onto the engine, maybe the input shaft is stuck on the bearing?. Am I missing something? Thank you for your help