teamsmith

Do these bolt right in or do I have to wrestle the brackets off my bench to make them work?

Thank you. I saw the Temple Grandin movie on HBO; which was enlightening. Although I'm not sure from what angle your post is coming from, I realize that I should take more care when choosing my words. I apologize for anyone I may have offended. If anyone should be called names it's me for thinking the fuel pump turned off while at idle.

great. thanks. I guess I was just ultra-sensitive to fuel supply issues with the addition of the 'new' injectors. Now on to the next issue. :)

it's the cheap one from autism-zone. I replaced it in the summer and it maybe has 400 miles on it. It's just odd that I never noticed it before; It is really loud. I guess I didn't realize that it ran continuously even at idle (although, now that I type this, I don't know why I thought that). I am stopping by the zone tonight anyway so I'll borrow a gauge to check the rail pressure to make sure all is well. Thanks.

Sorry to have all these different threads going, but I'd rather keep my issues separate if that's ok. This week I installed 6 rebuilt Bosch 702 (same as 703) from a Volvo to replace my leaky injectors. All went well, idle is better and throttle response is possibly improved off the line. However, I just noticed that the fuel pump (droning) comes on a stays on after driving for a few minutes (it does not come on/ stay on immediately when starting or on take off) and does not go off until I turn the truck off (even when I slow to an idle). Also, acceleration has sputtered a couple times from 2000-3000rpm while under load, like it's getting choked. I have not tested the regulator/rail with a gauge, but that will be on my list. Of the relevant components I have replaced the following with new: Fuel tank Fuel pump Fuel filter injectors air filter spark plugs/wires Thoughts? the sputtering makes me think my 'rebuilt' injectors are bad but I don't understand why the fuel pump would run and run, even at idle, unless my relay is blown or my regulator is stuck in whichever position calls for more pressure. There are no visible leaks.

Are you saying drain my M1 75w90 and replace with redline 75w90? I get that the redline blend might be a bit better but I thought objective was to add some thickening 'body' to the mix. Mudd, I haven't done anything yet. I replaced leaking Fuel Injectors Wednesday night which were higher priority since I was dumping raw gas into the engine compartment. Then I replaced the valve cover gasket last night to cut down on the steady leak in my driveway. Tonight I will plan to tackle this: I am leaning heavily towards getting a can of STP, siphon a bit of the 75w out of the fill hole, and replace with the treatment. It's both cheaper (in the short term) and simpler than draining the box and refilling with heavier 85w, the lucas treatment, or the fancier redline 75w product. This morning I was surprised with woefully inadequate heat to combat the 25 degrees of Chattanooga's first cold morning. The thermostat looks to be working as it heated up to 210 in ~5 minutes so I guess I will check my HCV to see if it's stuck or look at bleeding air out of the system via a post I saw from Eagle on opening the pressure cap and letting it heat up and watch the bubbles. The more I fix on this truck, the more that needs to be fixed.

thanks. All exterior lights work fine so I'm gonna check the headlight switch. I don't drive it fast enough to need to know how fast I'm going to so it's not a huge problem.

All of my gauges work fine but my backlight just went out which is controlled by the dimmer/headlight stem. It also seemed to control a light behind the climate controls, which is also out. Does anyone know if these dimmer controlled lights are tied to a fuse? I have not done Cruiser's ground upgrade for under dash but I intend to. Any other thoughts? My fuse panel is a rat's nest but none of the fuses are blown. Right now I have no interior lighting so driving at night feels somewhat isolating. It is, admittedly, peaceful. Headlights, and all exterior lights, work fine.

My wire is frayed/snapped short and the winch does not seem to operate. Thanks!

What are you adding STP to -- 75W90, or 85W140? Those numbers refer to viscosity. STP (and the Lucas oil treatment) is a "viscosity index improver" -- which means it makes oil thicker and stickier. It wouldn't hurt to add something like STP to 75W90, but I think it would be a mistake with 85W140. Many years ago I had a friend who was heavily into drag racing. Somewhere along the way, he "discovered" STP. He threw a quart in at an oil change, and he felt that his engine ran smoother and had more power. So the next oil change he used TWO quarts of STP. Then he tried three, and blew the engine. Pulled the pan, and stuff in the crankcase was sort of like J-E-L-L-O. Too much viscosity is just as bad as not enough. I was referring to the Lucas brand conventional gear oil 85w140 and asking if I should add the stp to it. I didn't know about the oil treatment that mudd referred to, so ill need to read up. I did just change the oil and used m1 75w90 about 500 miles ago which seemed to quieten down for a while but the noise is back so now I need to decide on next steps. Maybe add stp to current fill, drain/refill with 85w, or consider this Lucas product.

I got a headache trying to read your prose. I'm still not sure what you're asking but a gopro camera with wifi will link to most current smartphones so you can view and record remotely. Are you saying you have a front end vibration? At what speed? Have you had your wheels balanced? What size tires are you running? Do you have a lift?

Thanks.any issue with mixing conventional and synthetic? For the 85w, I was thinking of going with Lucas which is conventional. Thanks again edit: nevermind, I answered that for myself; I'm good to go. You reckon I should also add the can of STP like hillbilly mentioned to add some more body to this cocktail?

Have you checked your injectors? I had similar symptoms (bad mpg, misfire,rough idle, slow start, poor accelartion) and traced it to a leaking injector, which also explained the raw fuel smell.

That's the spec, although it should be GL-3 rather than GL-5, I believe. But I think that's more important in the AX-15. I used 85W-140 for keeping a whiny transmission quiet. I drove it for a couple of years, sold it, and the new owner had no problems for a t least a year. Then we lost contact. Eagle, If I decide to put 85w-140 to replace my 75w-90, can I just drain the box as usual and fill with as much 85w as I can or do I need to flush it somehow to get the 75w out of the TC? My concern is with mixing the two weights; any problem with that? Thanks

I'd like to see how the WRX seats look in it. Got any interior pictures?

I'm curious about the seats as well. They look like TJ seats like what are found in a Wrangler X Rocky Mountain Edition (as below). I guess with a little fab work, any seat will fit.

Fair enough and thanks for the advice. Timken it will be.

thanks. that is good to know. The Autozone Duralast (no gold specified) is about half price of Timken's own. In the product description I see that the Timken is heavier as far as the packaged item goes (by a pound) and has a 3 year warranty vs. the store brand 1 year. I do need to replace the bearings but I'm already way past budget for this truck that was supposed to be a 'hobby.' This will not be a DD and will not be taken off road; you reckon the quality of the Timken branded is worth the $100+ difference (pair) than either Autozone or Advanced private brands?

Can I just buy the National brand hub assembly from Advanced @ $75 retail ($52 after coupon) and be satisfied that it will work fine or do I need to hunt down a brand name bearing? I can't determine that my bearings have play but something is making a crazy racket like someone is sharpening scissors that gets worse when I turn the wheel so I can only imagine it's the front bearings since it doesn't change when I take it out of gear. Anyway, preference on hub assembly brand? Thanks

great info. Thanks guys.

Hello all, I have searched the forum and cannot find the answer. I found a guy who is parting out his 2002 WJ. I've already got his MC/BB installed. Does anyone know if the axles are the same width; like can I take his D44 and disc brakes and bolt it in to mine? I assume I would need to weld on leaf spring perches but is there more to it? When I swapped in his MC, I plumbed into my existing proportioning valve. Is that ok or would I need his prop valve for the rear disc? what else will swap in? I read that the thicker tie rods will bolt up. Thanks Tim

Did you cut the sun roof in yourself?

Thanks for the direction re the u joints. I don't think I have any lean in the tires. The change in noise when I turn could also be the rear end unloading weight, couldn't it? I can do the exercise of removing the brakes but wouldn't I have more leverage with the wheel still installed?

It sounds like brakes rubbing, metal on metal, and seems to have a 'rotational cadence', if that makes sense. The sound does not appear right away but starts about 10 minutes into a drive and never goes away. I can really only hear it while driving past a concrete wall or something that will bounce the sound off of it. It does seem to change the sound while turning the wheel slightly from top dead center. It's not brakes because I have a new brake system (WJ MC/Booster, new pads, calipers, rotors, lines, shoes/drum/wheel cylinders and they all spin pretty freely while on the stand plus the sound does not react in the slightest when I brake. I cannot tell that the sound is speed sensitive, it seems to be the same pitch and frequency at 10mph and 45mph. The sound remains when I pull it out of gear and coast, so it doesn't appear to be drivetrain related. If I had to guess, I would think the noise was coming from the front or near the front and on the passenger side, but that may be due to me hearing it the loudest while driving near a wall (on the passenger side). I put the truck on stands and did the 'wheel shake' technique to assess bearing play. the front wheels are solid, can't detect any movement bottom-to-top. On the rear, the left rear wheel does have some play. Before I go pick up a wheel bearing assembly and tools for the rear left, how do I diagnose the U-Joints? I've read they can make some racket but would they still be the culprit in neutral? Honestly, I don't even know what a U-Joint is. Any thoughts?

I think it comes with a Member's Only jacket and sansabelt slacks. I'm gonna say it reaches $8500, but I hope it goes for $10k+.