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mnkyboy

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Everything posted by mnkyboy

  1. We had a Covid outbreak at my house so i haven't been doing much of anything the last couple weeks, today I finally started the Jeep and pulled it out of the garage. It was having a hard time idling with the bigger injectors but seems to be improving the more it runs, so I will have to wait a bit and see what happens there. I only drove it a little out in front of the house but it feels pretty healthy, I punched it from a roll and it easily spun the tires. I took a quick video of the exhaust, it sounds a little different from how it was before. 20210123_144224_1.mp4
  2. mnkyboy

    2 door XJ owners

    I have a 2dr XJ, I like it but it is so much different than my MJ that they are hard to compare.
  3. https://m.facebook.com/groups/941680179342225/permalink/1771913219652246/
  4. An FMU is a device that blocks off the fuel return line under boost. Blocking the return increases the fuel pressure and increases fuel flow through the injectors. An untuned ECM is limited on how big of an injector it can run and still maintain a good idle/driveability, the FMU let's you run smaller injectors to keep the ECM happy but allows the smaller injectors to flow like slightly bigger injectors when you need more fuel. Not as good as a real tune but will work as long as you don't get crazy with the boost
  5. The Ford M90 would be the easiest but I don't think either would be all that difficult, there's a guy in the boosted 4.0l group on FB that sells the bracket for the Ford M90 separately or he will sell you a complete set up minus tuning for around $800. I know another guy that was selling the GM adapter but not sure if he still is offering them or not, either way it wouldn't be too difficult to make. There's a few options for tuning, for low boost you could get away with old school methods such as an FMU along with bigger injectors, another option is a piggy back such as Split second, then there's a number of full stand alone ECMs you could convert to which would be best but also the most work. No matter how you tune, you will want to make sure you have a wideband set up so you can monitor AFR along with all your usual gauges.
  6. Redoing stuff sucks, I probably should have done it right the first time.
  7. I took it back apart today, the plan was to reseal the copper gasket but after taking it apart I decided just to put the steel embossed gasket in since I know for sure I can get it to seal. Maybe once SCE gets a gasket with the correct cut I will revisit the copper gasket. I didn't get a chance to run the engine today but at least it's all back together.
  8. If your current cluster has dummy lights, you will also need to replace the sending units, the ones from the Cherokee you got the cluster from would work. There use to be some write ups floating around the web with good pics for calibrating the tachometer, you might be able to find them, but either way it's not too difficult as long as you have some way of reading rpm.
  9. The sliders do a great job of controlling the axle, but at the cost of flex. They have only one articulation point vs. two points with a shackle set up, so they put a lot more bind on the springs and flex quit a bit less than a shackle set up. I would consider them on the back of a track car or the front axle on a leaf sprung 4x4, but that's about it.
  10. Could also be the powersteering pressure sensor plug, it had a plug like that. The harness is typically set up with all the options, that way they only needed to make one harness.
  11. Luckily I've had it apart a few times so it won't take long to fix, I had the supercharger off so many times when I was setting it up that I can have it on a bench in around 20 minutes. From there it takes nothing to pop the head back off. I think draining both cooling systems might be the worst part.
  12. Good news, it lives. Bad news, it's coming back apart. It's still trying to figure out how to idle right with the bigger injectors but sounds pretty healthy, problem is that it's pushing compression into the cooling system so apparently I've got a cylinder leaking into a water jacket. Not sure if I'm going to try to reseal the copper gasket or just swap in the steel one, I used copper coat on the gasket but probably should have used a little silicone too. Having to modify the gasket might have played into the sealing issue too,I contacted SCE about the incorrect cut on the copper gasket and they are talking to their engineering team to find out what happened, maybe they will fix it and send me another one in 6 more months. It was nice to see it run though, the video is the first start after sitting 6 months. QUIK_20201226_164813_1.mp4
  13. Finally worked on the MJ a bit, it's mostly back together but apparently I forgot to get a new valve cover gasket. I also left the fuel rail off, I'm thinking about swapping the 24lb injectors for a set of 30lb injectors.
  14. The builds I've seen like this are mainly for show, they do look and sound cool. It would likely make more than adequate power for a show car, but wouldn't be ideal for all out performance.
  15. Good thing I waited, the gasket showed up today. Now to get the engine back together.
  16. Up until I blew the head gasket the truck was ready to go and just waiting on me. After 3 years and a couple surgeries the doctors say my knee is as good as it's going to get, it's far from normal but good enough that I should be able to safely walk around on muddy trails again. So the plan is to get it back together and hopefully get it back on the trails. I probably won't do anything too drastic with the truck any time soon, I still need to get a cage in it and I've been thinking about getting some bead locks. Eventually I would still like to link the rear but I don't know how soon that's going to happen.
  17. I probably should, I don't necessarily need the Jeep operational right now.
  18. So this weekend I had planned to put the head back on the Jeep with the embossed steel gasket, Saturday morning I'm scrolling through Facebook and see a post on Turbo Ford (another addiction of mine) with a SCE copper head gasket, he ordered it 6 months ago and it had just arrived. I have been waiting since early July for mine to show up so this guys post has me wondering if I should wait just a little longer, I bet the day I put that thing back together the Copper gasket will show up. Not sure what I'm gonna do.
  19. I'm pretty sure they still sell that same kit, the basic RRO 5" kit lifts your truck an nothing more, I ended up adding control arm drop brackets and adjustable control arms, and I ditched the OME springs and spacers for full length 6.5" coils. Then it worked pretty great on and offroad,not sure I would buy the RRO kit again though, once I was done there wasn't much of it left on my truck. Still haven't seen the copper head gasket, I was going to install the steel one over the weekend but forgot my torque wrench at work, at this point I need to just go out the garage and reassemble it.
  20. I used rear door hinges on mine too, they worked great. Rear hinges are especially good when looking for used hinges since rear door hinges typically don't get worn out like the fronts do.
  21. Winch (Y/N) : Yes, hidden 10k Homemade/Kit/Prefabricated : Homemade.
  22. The NOS steel gasket showed up today, hopefully soon I can put this thing back together.
  23. Still no copper head gasket, Summit racing can't tell me when to expect it and I've reached out to the manufacturer twice with no response. I did some looking and found a NOS embossed steel gasket set so, I will put my engine back together with that and I will also be installing ARP head studs. For now I will keep the copper gasket on order and see if it shows up. I've added some pics of the ARP studs, since people like pictures.
  24. I put sound deadening material in my MJ then sprayed bedliner over it, it's easy to clean and still helps keep heat and sound out of the cab.
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