mnkyboy

Unless this rig is heavily wheeled i would look for a HP D30 from a late model XJ. You will ditch the CAD, get an axle/U joint upgrade, and it will be about a decade newer so it likely won't have lots of rust and seized parts, best part is it will bolt right in and should only run you about $200.

They are refering to the spline count on the pinion, all 8.25s are 27 so those gears fit either version of 8.25". As far as shafts, basically the only difference between a 27 and 29 spline 8.25 is the carrier is bored larger on the 29 to accept larger side gears for the 29 spline shafts to fit in. With just carrier swap and/or locker install you can convert a 27 to 29 spline shafts.

It's come a long ways over the years.

I ran the RRO kit on my MJ for years, originally it was bolt on with the factory D35 and later i welded the kit to an MJ D44. It's sitting under my sons MJ now, I wouldn't buy the kit again but it worked well for me. I will say that i have seen the RRO kit fail though,it got loose on a YJ D35 with stamped perches and twisted back and forth until it eventually pulled an axle tube out of the housing. The cast factory perches would hold the SOA perches in place much better but either way keep a close eye on them or just weld them in place.

I attached metal strap to the bottom of it and bolted it straight to the tunnel, I didn't do any tunnel mods at the time. It's sitting as low as possible.

Mine are a bit different than others, the Jeep had no brackets when I got it, it had some old chevy seats bolted to wood blocks. The Dakota seats also came to me with nothing so everything had to be custom made, the rails are generic ones i pulled from a Ford conversion van, i bolted them to the seats then fabbed up some simple brackets to bolt them to the stock mounting points on the floor. I did mine about 10 years ago, since then others have done it using parts from the stock brackets and Dakota brackets, seems that would be easier than how i did it.

Yep, mine are separated to sit close to stock but they are still a little higher than stock seats. Keeping them together is going to make them really high, his seats are almost touching the arm rest.

Looks like it. https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/astro-pneumatics-pulley-puller-and-installer-kit-ast7874/25981552-p?c3ch=PLA&c3nid=25981552-P&adtype=pla&gclid=Cj0KCQjwqM3VBRCwARIsAKcekb3oauGY2Ln03Pfj0i9epaadmxVHg_EpHtC4NHpa-wnzXTQuQoWJUG4aAgbWEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

Something like this. https://m.harborfreight.com/pulley-remover-and-installer-set-12-pc-63068.html

The water/air system has a 4 gal icebox/reservoir in the bed, a 12v pump moves the water through copper pipes under the truck to further dissipate heat before it goes through a bar & plate style heat exchanger in the grill then through the Laminova intercooler. The pump is a clone of a Bosch style 12v pump for a water air set up that's used on a few OEM systems. I bought the supercharger and intercooler used and adapted them to my engine, Avenger superchargers use to sell the same set up in their TJ kit but it's not available anymore. The supercharger gets oiled like a turbo, it has a feed line coming off the oil pressure sending unit and a drain to the oil pan, it also could have been set up self contained like many OEM superchargers. In all the videos you saw on You Tube the boost was at 3psi, i have a pulley to bump it to around 10psi but I haven't put it on yet. Currently it has MPFI with 24lb injectors and a MAP adjuster, i also have an adjustable FMU but i haven't got it set up yet. I monitor AFR with a wideband and so far it's happy at low boost. I currently have nothing to pull timing, eventually i might do something but so far it hasn't been an issue,

They are 14" Fox 2.0s

Looks like he is in Sandy Oregon, so somewhere out near me.

My AX15 swap was around $600 but i took my time and got good buys on most of it, that's not including drive shafts since i had to do them anyway and also going into a truck that already had a manual transmission to begin with. It could easily cost a lot more.

As far as 2.5l builds, I've come across several other built 2.5ls, pretty much all are MPFI and most are running forced induction or a stroker. You can make a 2.5l perform pretty well, it's not really cost effective though, for whats gone into mine i could have easily swapped in a V8 or something. I just have a thing for being different and wanted to see what i could do with the 4banger.

A manual swap even on a worn out engine is going to be night and day. An auto already saps more power than a manual but then on top of it the A904s gear ratios aren't all that great. A904 1st 2.74,2nd 1.54,3rd 1.00 AX5 1st 3.93,2nd 2.33,3rd 1.45,4th 1.00,5th .85 Kinda like driving around using only 2nd,3rd,and 4th gears.

T case may swap, I'm not sure what output the 904 used. Personally I would swap the t case anyway, a 231 would be a nice upgrade from a 207. Also make sure that you get a 86-90 flywheel for your swap , any year trans will work but the flywheel needs to match the Renix system on your engine. I see you're in Sandy, you might get ahold of Jeeps West, David may have everything you need laying around the shop.

AX15 didn't slow my 2.5l down at all, i can spin 37s on pavement in first and cruise in 5th on the highway. Never tried the AX15 on a stock 2.5l though.

We are working on populating the hardcore tech area with threads from other parts of the forums. If you have a build or know of tech threads you would like to see moved let us know, post the link here and we will review them.

Well that sucks, I haven't played with any of them.

There's several SPL meter apps you can download for free. I may take some readings on mine just out of curiosity,I'm sure it's much louder than the average street driven MJ, my MJ is about as refined as an ultra4 car.

I still haven't bothered to hook the stereo back up in the truck since I did the MPFI harness, the engine sings pretty good, probably the only case where constant whining is a good thing. I couldn't do no sound deadener,it was pretty bad. After I got the truck back together I drove it about 1 1/2 hrs on the freeway to my brothers house without any sound deadening, it was shortly after that I pulled everything out and added the Peal & Seal, I could hear the difference even before I got the interior back together. It may not be Dynamat but it cost me around $30 to do the entire floor and made the truck much more bearable for long drives.

You don't need a sound reading to know that you no longer need to yell to have a conversation with your passenger.

My MJs floor is covered with Peel & Seal and has bedliner sprayed over it. It made a huge difference in my rig.

Peel & Seal from Lowe's is probably the cheapest you will find, it's $16.50 a roll. It's similar to Fat Mat.