buckwheat

A-man930: I have swapped the 97+ doors. Since they are manual windows they do not have the bulky armrest on them. No interference at all with the glove box or anything else. And in my opinion (besides mis-matched colors) they fit right in with the interior. IMHO it was a straight forward swap and ended up with a nice result. But its not my truck. OP, if you do end up modifying the current doors, please post it here. I would love to see the results and how you went about doing it.

Why not swap doors? Far easier and cheaper than trying to change your doors to work with later glass. Using car-part.com I found a pair with manual windows even.

I also use a bottlejack in my daily driver (31" tires). To go with it I cut a piece of 4x4 about 10" long and drilled drilled a hole 1.5" deep in it that the top of the jack fits in. This way I can use it under the bottlejack as a support/ riser block, or put it on top of the jack (because of the hole) and use it as a soft piece to push on something I don't want deformed. Has been very handy for multiple things.

So, just making sure I understand your arguement: You would run different tires sizes between front and back. Then to accommodate the strain on the transfer case you would regear each axle to something different. In the cases you mentioned, regear it to a ratio that doesn't even exist so far as I know. Just to save yourself the money of a pair of Acos spacers? Then lets say you get a flat. Are you going to carry two spare tires since you have two sizes on your truck? And none of this is factoring in the cost of building a flat bed and the associated work. I think you are looking in very much the wrong direction. Compared to what you are talking about, a lift kit is cheap. Then again I am wondering if this is just a troll post. . .

My truck has a crude temporary rear bumper Mike. But not a factory one. I even made the mounts out of the same material. It was shown in a music video. Check it out https://youtu.be/pWDvlekoPkg: It appears at 1 minute 8 seconds and again at 4 minutes 32 seconds.

Correct me if I am wrong, but there is no stored memory on the Renix system. So there is no need to "reset" it. If you have a 91 or 92 with OBD-I, then you should do the above. The Renix system and new injectors are plug, play, and spray. The only reason I know to change injectors is to get a four hole spray pattern over the OEM single hole spray. Keep the same size and volume delivery. Bosch 746 injectors are the recommended upgrade for a Renix.

Not trying to hi-jack, but does anyone have a picture of this "raised sub frame"? or a link with pictures that detail replacing floor pans? I will be replacing my pans soon and want to get a good idea of what I am getting into.

My truck does this same thing occasionally. If I take the main ground wire off the block and clean it really well it seems to help for a few months. Then the issue comes back. Very intermittent. So the only real idea I have for you is to clean that ground off again. I'm going to keep checking back here for any solution you might come up with. Good luck.

I'm glad you got it all figured out. Now as a side note (not trying to be an a$$): Could you please use periods, spaces, and capital letters. I had a very hard time reading your last post. In fact I am not sure I understood it all.

Check out a battery disconnect switch. Instead of taking off and having to re-install the negative cable you can just flip a switch to "disconnect" it. Couple of different types available. Could make your life a lot easier.

Thanks for the info guys. It will be nice to go down to one key again. One thing I noticed is the steering wheel has a cover on it, presumably because the original covering was worn down. Its all fairly disgusting right now. Is there someway to recover the steering wheel, back to factory style condition? I was thinking to cut off all the material that is there and rewrap it with tennis racket tape. Anyone have a better solution?

Eagle, Thanks for the info. I got lucky in the junkyard and pulled a column from a 91 XJ cherokee. Now to find the time to install it and get it keyed the same as my doors.

I was reading some older threads that said a column from a 94 Cherokee could be used in my 1987 Comanche. The reason I am interested in this is to get a single key for the entire truck. I already have the 97+ doors, and I figured with a 94 column I could get matching keys. Only issue is the junkyard closest to me has lots of grand cherokees and few regular cherokees. So can I use a column from a grand cherokee (year range?) in place of the cherokee? Also, any other parts I should keep my eye out for? I know that is a terribly general question, but I am also a terrible noob at junkyard crawls. Thanks for the help guys.

Yup. speedo gear is correct and speedometer is verified with gps over several intervals.

I will side with Jackrabbit on this one. I have 31" tires and 4.10 gearing and its too deep for my liking. Tach reads 2300 or so at 65mph. Its a small difference, but i think 4.10s paired with narrow 33" tires would be the perfect combo.

Since you asked for other things, check out cruiser54.com All of his tips are good for our trucks. Any questions, just make a thread here and someone will be able to give you some advice and ideas. Read the DIY section as well. Lots of solid information there. And enjoy your new truck, they are lots of fun.

Krustyballer16, teach me your ways. My truck is in need of cab corners and rocker panels. I was going to cut out the sheet metal and put in a 2x6 rectangular steel tubing that runs all the way from the front to the back. But if you can share what you did I am all ears. Sorry, hoping to not thread jack here OP, just excited.

Combine this with (I think) Hornbrods idea of putting the MAP sensor on the TB itself. I would buy it. Not for 125 . . . .

Check out http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=921205. Everything you need to know.

If you don't mind me asking, what was the total cost of this kit?

Assuming we are working with a Renix system:: If you get the fuel tank WITHOUT the baffle inside of it, then yes a cherokee sender of the same year will work. They are mirror image to the stock comanche sender, hence you need to get rid of the baffle. Spectra JP5A I think. A few people have come up with other solutions, take a few minutes to google them up. Try phrases like "site:comancheclub.com cherokee fuel sending" or some such.

Central Axle Disconnect = CAD. Explains your symptoms. Check out this link for a permanent fix. http://comancheclub.com/topic/17377-cad-fix-1/ I decided to go with a Jeep Posi-Lock system (google it) for versatility. The permanent fix is cheaper and requires nothing extra.

cruiser54.com Check it out. Same basic thing as posted about, but I think its organized better.

Rockfrog, By later model plug you mean a 97+ plug? Any chance you remember how you matched up the wiring for that? I'm interested in doing this but haven't been able to find a good write-up for matching wires across. Sorry if I'm highjacking here.

Bend some paperclips and backprobe with them.