buckwheat

I believe he is asking about the part in the second picture. http://comancheclub.com/topic/9913-97-cherokee-front-end-swap-for-an-mj-comanche/ I got mine at a salvage yard.

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=921205

Alright, I think the project is almost over. The hard parts are done for sure. The slave cylinder is replaced and the transmission is once again bolted to the engine. Now I need to replace all the rusted bolts with stainless steel and drill out all the ones that snapped off. Then replace all the hoses and wires and things. But that is easy enough. Thanks everyone for the help.

Thanks for the responses. I think I have everything unhooked and unplugged. Tomorrow's job is dropping the transmission. I noticed that the transmission support that goes from one side of the frame to the other has half the bolts its supposed to. The OP snapped off the other half. So that is going to add a day to my project, removing snapped and rusted bolts. I am beginning to see why a shop would charge so much to replace a single part. I am also wondering why internal slave cylinders were ever created. Isn't external a better plan on all fronts?

I have an 87 MJ 4.0L with the Pukegoat BA 10-5. The slave cylinder gave out and I am currently trying to figure out how to drop the transmission to get at the little bugger. Here are the issues / questions I have so far: 1: I read that the shifter tower needs to be removed. I have gotten as far as this. Seems like the rubber ring needs to come up. I tried to pull on it and twist it but it didn't seem to budge. I also don't want to break or tear anything. What should I try and do next? 2. I need to remove the transfer case linkage from the arm on the transfer case, as well as from the transmission itself. On the transmission it seems like one nut to remove and I should be good there. Its the transfer case that I ran into problems. Is the linkage pressed together with a bushing? Do I just need to get mad at it to pull it apart? Anybody have a method? Again, trying to not break anything and keep the cost of this repair as low as possible. 3. How many bolts are there to be removed on the bellhousing? I know the "top two" are E-12 and I already have a socket for them, but what others do I have to remove? Some of them seem to hold the inspection cover on and I don't think I need to mess with them. Any photos, guides, or advice would be nice here. 4. Misc things or advice. First time dropping a transmission, or do any work of this sort. So anything you guys have that would help me is appreciated. For instance, I know that Pete recommends replacing the E-12 bolts with studs to help with transmission alignment. I plan on trying this. Anything that makes the job easier. Thanks for reading. Can't wait to get this done and get the truck back on the road.

This is ideal IMO. All the dimensions come out really nice and it seems factory put together. Plus the most useful storage space & more leg room.

nice website cruiser54. It will be nice to have everything together in one spot.

I have done the same basic thing that 87warrior posted. I modified it a little bit, but the main idea is the same. No slosh pan in the tank and a cherokee sender. Has been working well for over a year now. And this is with an 87, so it is MPFI.

I know its not very charitable of me, but here goes: Groffman, take some time to search out information before you blast out 4-5 new threads in a forum. Its just not polite. I know that all the information you are wanting has been covered multiple times, go find it. Try using Google search with the starting phrase "site:comancheclub.com" as that will limit the results you get. Almost anything I have wanted to know I have found that way. Good luck.

There is a write-up with photos. http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/dash-removal-35444/ Check it out.

I would enjoy piecing together a TDi conversion. But that has to wait a few years. However, I can read all the free information I can find until then!

Also, if you plan on keeping the gearing the same you need to find a manual cherokee. Your rear axle, stock anyways, will be 3.07. You need a matching front axle. An automatic transmission will be 3.55. Try using car-part.com to source some things. Also, how are the pick and pulls in your area? And I hope you enjoy your truck. Mine has been the best vehicle I have ever had.

I would be interested in any links you have to more info. I know of the Coty motor swap, but that is rather expensive. Although 30+ mpg sounds awesome.

Am I the only one who read the title of this thread and thought "How can you make the reverse gear any better? Maybe he has found a way to go faster in reverse . . . "?

I think if the color matched and the imprint faded it would work fine. But being so obviously different makes it NQR.

Having troubles getting my camera to link to my computer, but the short answer is yes they will bolt up. I will keep trying to upload the photos. Doesn't look that great imo, but to each their own.

I'll look at my parts pile tomorrow. I think I have the pieces you are asking about, I'll see if its possible. Do you need one of those armrests?

Just in case you overlooked it, think of a Ford 8.8. Depending on what you read they as strong as or stronger than a Dana 44, and would require the same amount of work to install as the Chrysler 8.25. Get the right vintage and it comes with disc brakes. It was an easy swap for me, took 5-6 hours with a helper, and I am a noob when it comes to mechanics. My $0.02.

Not helpful for your questions, but possible encouragement: 1.5 years ago I had enough knowledge about trucks to change the oil and air filter at regular intervals. That was it. Then my old truck died and I bought my MJ. Just read this tech board everyday and google anything you don't understand. Read through the DIY Forum on this site as well. Again, google anything you don't know. Eventually it all falls into place and starts making sense. To date I have remade the wiring harness for the front lights, switched the front clip, installed different axles, and fixed some wiring hack jobs left from the PO. It just takes time, patience, and lots and lots of reading. If I can figure this stuff out then almost anyone can. Good luck!

95/96 will have the dual diaphragm booster and be plug and play with your vehicle. Also should have the solid front axle, although the smaller u-joints compared to a 97-99 front axle. Any automatic transmission comes with 3.55 gearing. So it looks like you want a 95 or a 96 with an automatic transmission. Good luck on the swap and upgrades.

You found a new sending unit for the original fuel tank? Where!?!

Thanks for the correction on the letters. Stupid typo on my part. And I do plan on going to the JY. Hoping to get lucky and find all the parts in one place.

Why not get the sender refurbished? Easier fix imo. Or modify a cherokee sender to work in your tank.

I want to swap out my original steering box with a quick steer out of a WJ. I have read that normally you need to remove the pitman arm and use your existing one. At the same time I would like to upgrade the tie rod ends with the bigger ones from a V8 WJ. So my 1st question: Can I keep the WJ pitman arm on the steering box and transfer over all the front end pieces onto my axle? A full swap if you will. 2nd question: What power steering pump should I get to run the new steering box? I know that hornbrod used an 04 wrangler pump, but that requires changing the intake and pump mounting I believe. I am looking for something that is a direct replacement. Finally: Anything I should be aware of before starting this swap? Things that are likely to break or go wrong? Thanks for the help.