buckwheat

It is 7mm. Usually its not part of any set of tools, have to buy it separately.

I know there are several threads on this, but I can't seem to find a picture ,or name, of the "L-shaped fender bracket" that people keep stating is needed. Does it have a name or place where I can order it? There are no pick and pull yards near me, and the local junk yards are a laugh. So being able to source it somewhere else would be great. Any ideas?

Personally I don't like the way Bushwackers look. I'll be interested to see other options and how they work with Comanche body lines. Sorry I have nothing constructive to add except my excitement for more pictures and options.

I kinda like those flares. What brand are they?

Awesome. Thanks for the advice guys. And thanks for the write-up, looks super detailed. Hopefully I'll be able to jump in and do it sometime soon, before it gets too hot. Only thing that is holding me back right now is my MJ is my daily driver. If its an 8 hour job it will probably take me 16 or more. So I need a three day weekend before I start it.

So I will need to remove the ENTIRE dash? Or just take off the lower panel and loosen the top bolts on the upper dash?

Bo, What year ZJ seats? Any particular model?

Noriyori_Kudo - You say I do not have to take the dash apart to get the HVAC box out? That would be great. I know there are 6 bolts that go through the firewall that I have to remove to get it out. Anything else I need to take apart? Eagle - I was afraid I would want a new heater core and evaporator. Nothing like doing a job the right way the first time. Ouch on the $$$ side though. Anyone know what kind of nightmare I will be getting into with the wiring? Wiring is always what scares me the most.

I know this has been covered multiple times, but I want to get opinions on a few different issues. My truck did not come with AC, but I have a parts 89 Cherokee with it. So I plan on getting the under dash box (heater box?), controls, and misc parts from it. I plan on reusing the compressor and condensor unless anyone can think of a reason why I shouldn't. How much of the dash do I have to remove to get to the heater box? I know the lower dash is a minimum, but what else do I have to take loose to get enough wiggle room to pull the heater box out? Can I reuse the evaporator and heater core, or should I replace them while I have the box out? Comparing cost vs. convenience. I know I should get a new drier and hoses. Are there premade hoses or do you make your own? How do I convert from R-12 to R134a? Should I look at getting parts from a 95+ Cherokee? Does anyone have photos or a write-up for the extra wiring under the hood? I know I will need something to the compressor, but what else do I need? Does anyone have ideas on putting extra fan(s) in? I've been thinking about deleting my mechanical fan and putting in two electric fans. Would this be a good idea? And are there any extra parts I need to add that I haven't mentioned? Are there any write-ups with photos? Or any good place for parts? Sorry for the long post/ lots of questions. Thanks for all the ideas!

I'll be watching this closely as my truck has the same issue, and I have tried the same solutions. I wish you luck fixing it.

Awesome. As soon as I get the chance it will be gone. What did you all use to plug the hole in the exhaust pipe?

Sorry to drag up something so old, but I just made progress on this issue. I capped off the vacuum line leading to the solenoid, and almost all of my issues went away. So I would like to get rid of my EGR. I have read many different web pages and there seems to be a 50/50 split on whether it is acceptable or not. So I guess I am wondering what the consensus of ComancheClub is. Can the EGR be deleted without any ill effect? I am hesitant to replace the EGR since it costs 150 and is another piece that can break at a later date.

Just like the title states. I would like a Dana 30 with 4.10 gearing to match the ford 8.8 I picked up. Hoping to find one somewhere in Missouri or close to Missouri. Send me a PM if you have one or have a lead on one.

Check out BleepinJeep on youtube. Matt (the guy that does the vids) made a how to on swapping those pieces. It is not plug and play, you have to modify the new pieces. Ill see if I can find the exact video.

Sorry for the confusion. I bought the MJ tank without the baffle, then cut an opening in the bottom of it, made an open topped box that would fit inside the hole (without interfering with the XJ pump assembly), and welded that in place. This way I have a tank that fits like original, a baffle that works with the XJ equipment, and because I built the box taller than I needed I also have a sump for the fuel pick-up. This is the set-up I have been running without issue for a while. I hope this makes things clearer. And you might want to stick with your tank, thats entirely up to you. I was trying to answer your questions about how to make the XJ assembly work and maybe give you a few ideas on improvements as well. Sorry if this didn't come across well. Good luck on getting your problem fixed.

Indeed they do. I believe it is the JP5A. It was sold for the Renault diesel engines. Should not have a baffle inside, but fits exactly the same as the original tank. I also went a further step and put a sump/ baffle into the tank after I bought it. This way I don't have to worry about gas pooling away from the pick-up tube when the tank gets low. Definitely something you might want to think about. I know some other people on here have made the XJ assembly work in the MJ tank. Maybe one of them could chime in? Otherwise I have been running with mine for ~500 miles and no problems.

Another option for the square plug hole is to get some 5/16 inch keystock. Light polishing on the sides and it fits perfectly. Its also cheap which is usually a good thing.

I accidentally ordered the Spectra tank with the baffle the first time. I tried to fit the XJ sending unit and pump assembly into it and both the fuel strainer and the sending unit arm were hitting on the baffle. Since the strainers and sending arms are 180 from each other one fits nicely inside the baffling, and the other doesn't. I am sure you could change a few things and use the XJ hardware. But I decided to go the stupid route and make a tank that fit the XJ assembly. Kinda up to you. I think if you google "site:comancheclub.com xj sending unit in MJ" you will find a few good articles of people who have put the XJ pieces in an MJ. That's what I based my work off of.

If it was me I would get a Fuel Pressure Gauge and see if my pressure was actually low before replacing things. Someone can correct me, but 31 with the vacuum, 39 without is what comes to memory. Strokermjcomanche: Why would changing the pumps cause the gauge to read backwards? Wouldn't that only change if he used a different sending unit?

I used the cherokee sending unit/ pump assembly recently. You have to get a gas tank without the baffling inside. Like PFCLeist stated the MJ and XJ units are mirror images. With the new tank, it has worked wonderfully. Also I am curious what why you say JB Weld and gas don't get along. Directly from their website: Is J-B Weld resistant to water and/or gasoline? When fully cured, J-B Weld is completely resistant to water, gasoline, and about every other petroleum product or automotive chemical. For wet-surface or submerged water or gasoline repairs, try our SteelStikor WaterWeld. If you want I have my old sending unit and pump (pump is going bad) that I would be willing to sell to you. PM me you're interested.

Just replaced my tank. The two lines on the vent valves come together at a T junction right next to the tank. Then a single line went forward under the truck. I didn't trace it all the way, but the only place for it to go was the charcoal canister. Is that what you wanted to know?

I recently replaced the EGR with one from an 89 XJ. The one I put on had a transducer, while the one I took off did not. Was there a change in the EGR system from 87 to 89? Can I rent a vacuum gauge and hand pump from Orielleys (or similar)? Or are they cheap enough that I should buy my own?

I have had an issue recently with my 87 4.0L 5 speed MJ. At low rpm's my truck will buck/lurch and have almost no throttle response. Sometimes it will die even with me feathering the gas like crazy. It seems like its not getting enough air, or not enough gas. This problem is much worse when starting in 1st gear, and the absolute worst when trying to reverse. To make things better it is somewhat intermittent. I put a fuel pressure gauge on it, and while it would read 31 / 39 like it was supposed to, when I opened the throttle the pressure would drop to 23 for a few seconds before coming back up to spec. I thought the fuel pump was the problem, so I replaced that, and the fuel filter. The lurching and throttle response is much better now, but still there. So I am wondering what else could be going wrong? My next thought is the TPS and IAC i put on it from Orielley's were cheap and are failing after 1 months use. Should I be looking for replacements for them? Or does anyone have another idea what might be going wrong? I have done Cruiser's Tips for cleaning grounds and connectors, as well as eliminating my C101. The TPS is adjusted to spec using Cruiser's instructions as well.

Why oh why did I buy a Jeep? It seems like all I do is wrench on it, and wait for the next thing to break. O well . . . So far I have fixed all the oil leaks, got the main electronics working, and fixed some worn suspension and front end parts. Next job is to stop it leaking gas. If I put less than a half tank in it, no leaks, no problems. If I go above half it starts to dribble out. From other threads I have read I know its probably the tubes coming out of the tank itself and a little JB Weld will probably fix it. But I want to fix things so I won't have to come back at them. I was reading this page http://comancheclub.com/topic/36960-non-fi-gas-tank-and-cherokee-sending-unit-swap/, and wondering what the downsides are to getting a gas tank without the slosh pan? I really like the idea of being able to put a new sending unit and fuel pump in it and having a new tank. That way I won't have to worry about those pieces for *fingers crossed* at least a year. What ideas / comments do you guys have? Problems or just personal opinions welcomed. If I do this swap, I want to know all possible downsides, as well as the upsides. Thanks!

Did you record how you modified it to work? Or know where I could find detailed instructions on doing so? I apologize for hijacking your thread Knucklehead. I need to fix my leaking gas tank as well and would like to just replace the fuel pump and sending unit as well as the o-ring.