Dando

Quick question on this subject, does the rubber sheath go the full length of the 2wd driveshaft? And why would the rubber sheath make a driveline shop weary of shortening it? I ask because I need to shorten my 2wd shaft now that I installed my 4wd trans

I have been working on making this swap myself and I am swapping everything into my 90 MJ from my 95 XJ. I am finding that most everything from my much newer cherokee still fits perfectly. And the few things that don't perfectly match up are very insignificant and there are ways around it, Nothing that would stop the truck from being drivable.

Empty Post

I picked mine up at oreillys auto parts and they happened to have it just on the shelf in the help area.

Could be sediment clogged something, honestly I would try replacing the fuel filter as it's so easy and cheap.

Now keep in mind I don't do any off-roading other than forest roads, but quite frequent towing, 600mi + highway trips, and normal daily driving . I have had only the single cores in my jeep for the life of it and it is currently sitting at 230kmi and as long as the rest of the cooling system components are operating properly I have never had a single problem. Only time I have ever overheated was when my water pump took a $#!&. I vote for save the money for something else and just get the single.

So on this torque converter stuff, I want to make sure that I am buying the right part. The parts stores list the same part number for both the 90 and the 95, does anybody have measurements I can check the new one against or any insights on this dilemma?

Thanks for that help, first I had heard of it and I had planned on using my torque converter from the 95, thanks for that, otherwise I would have been just abit perplexed.

Wait so seriously? The 95 torque converter will not bolt up to the 90 flywheel? I think the torque converter on the 90 might be junk already so if that true I need to call the parts store immediately.

Ok, so these two extra wires that are going to be on the 95 aw4, what are they for and what do I need to do with them? Will the tcu from my 95 be a direct fit into the 90 MJ?

What wiring issues are you speaking of? From looking at the connectors on both vehicles (they appear almost identical) and the link you provided doesn't seem to mention anything about wiring changes? I am confused. Also which crossmember should I use? Can I use the torque converter from the 95? Anything I need to know about swapping speedo setups or anything weird about putting a transfer case into a vehicle that has never had one before?

So driving home from work just now my dd XJ (1995 4.0, AW4, Np231) broke the block at the motor mount. Instead of even attempting to fix this I am being rushed into performing the swap into my 90 MJ (1990, AW4, 2wd) that has a bad transmission. I need this done as quickly as possible, my plan is to pull the trans/Transfer from the XJ and installing them into the MJ. Ive done some basic research and know a few things like use the 90 flywheel and that the drive-shaft won't fit, but other than that I'm in the dark. I have the help of a father in law that has been wrenching for his whole life and his garage with lift and tools. What things will i need to keep from the cherokee and what parts will i need to use from the comanche to make this swap as quick as possible? I am going to be researching this all evening and hope to start tomorrow afternoon, so any help would be appreciated because i need this done asap and am currently without a vehicle till i get this swap done. Any help in lowering the amount of time spent on the computer researching swaps will help me spend more time performing the swap, thanks again.

For the seam sealer, when redoing the floors on my XJ a few years ago, I had good luck with a knotted wire cup that attached to my angle grinder and then finishing the cleanup with a flap disc. For the areas I couldn't get the grinder into I used a propane torch to soften it up and then just used a metal scraper.

Everyday, all day. Wallet, lighter, keys (not pictured), iphone5, King Innovations iTool (leatherman style tool specifically for irrigation workers), and a kel tec pf9.

This is an option I'd considered, but then I wondered about opening the gate. Extending the shaft that goes in to the receiver is also an option. At present, I have a rack set-up that uses a boat loader on the back of the bed, and a regular bar rack on the cab. My canoe is a 16.5' We-no-nah and only weighs 60 lbs. I can put on and take off by myself without even breaking a sweat (I'm 61) It sits at about a 20 degree angle and I can open the tailgate and my cross bed box and get to all the gear in the bed without any problem. I'll post up a picture when I can find it. I would be really interested in seeing a picture of this, I am intrigued by this idea. To the trailer guys, while that is a great idea I would like to keep it more or less narrowed down to only using the MJ. Most that will ever be transported with the MJ are the two kayaks for me and the girl. A trailer seems like it Wouldn't be as convenient for me to use if we are simply going for a leisurely paddle on a nearby lake after work for a few hours.

That's actually an idea I hadn't thought of and I feel dumb now cause that's an incredibly easy solution.

That would work for the kayaks I would think, but the maximum spread of the drop rails seems too narrow to properly support the canoe. I was almost thinking about the bars on the cab roof and something similar to a ladder rack off the rear of the bed corners but without stake pockets and not wanting to really drill into the bed if at all possible.

Sorry to bring up an old thread. So I am interested in any pics anyone has of how they carry kayaks and canoes with the MJ. I will need to be able to carry 2 whitewater kayaks or a 17' canoe at times, never both at once. Now for a quick paddle on a lazy afternoon the bed is fine for the kayaks but there are many times where I am gonna need my bed for camping cargo and the canoe is huge compared to my short bed MJ, I used to do this with my XJ by just strapping to my roof rails.

In going to say fuel filter, with only 85k mi it could be original, I know mine was at 100k still when I bought it. And then If it is not the fuel filter at least it is a cheap part that's easy to replace and should be changed anyways for peace of mind.

Oh I agree completely but it does at least list the mileage and has some pics. Florida so prob pretty rust free at least.

http://spacecoast.craigslist.org/cto/4410571264.html

Sorry fluid is full and fresh, there is no transfer case it's 2wd. I am almost certain the trans is toast but as a last ditch effort I compared the connectors and noticed the difference. The only thing I haven't done is try to move the transmission with the electrical plugs undone. When I shift the lever in my truck into park and neutral etc, it stays locked up in park and I can push the truck in neutral. This is my post from when it all started: http://comancheclub.com/topic/42235-replacing-aw4-bell-housing/?hl=bellhousing

I don't want to come off as being cocky but I really took my time and I happen to do a lot of interior/exterior house painting so I've managed to get pretty decent at taping things off.

I would think it would work fine but I would be very cautious and try to seal the area best as I could. I would worry that it will continue to rust. If they truly are small pinholes why not grind them to completely bare metal and have a friend or a body shop take a few seconds and fill the pinholes with weld?

After finishing I am very glad I sent further down too. Forgot to post some pics of the tailgate closed to show why I decided to go to the lower body line.