Dando

I'll take a picture of my setup on my 90 when the sun comes up here in alittle bit and post the picture ASAP but I am still fairly certain that when I had the engine out recently the knock sensor has the Fuel injector style connector.

I'm fairly certain that the sensor you are referring to is not actually your coolant temp but actually your knock sensor. Do you have a picture?

Is it possible to use the renix hex head bolt to attach the ho housing?

I swapped my 90 4.0 for a 95 4.0 kept the renix system. Now my gauge (I used the renix gauge sender) reads high but my coolant doesn't boil etc. Used an IR thermometer and got a lower reading I was aimed at the rear of the head. Engine had been running around town for about 45mins prior to these photos. Which do I trust and is there any way to test the gauge sender?

Swapped to my HO engine and kept the management systems all renix. Before swapping in the engine got new gaskets (oil pan, Rear main etc), new oil pump, timing chain. Took just shy of eight hours start to finish.

I would say if it runs fine and such you will be fine, this is one that will be going into my MJ, this engine has 232k mi on it. Oil pan hasn't been removed in 10yrs until last night.

Not sure how much help this is but regarding the trans wiring connectors, when doing my 4wd swap on my 90mj I used a trans from a 95xj and everything plugged in perfectly.

I would definetly like to avoid any unneeded lift, lifted truck just isn't my thing. Does anyone have any kind of spring rate or measurements etc of a disassembled metric ton leaf pack? I have a very good spring shop in akron that I want to discuss this with but I would like to have an idea of what I need from them before I even start talking with them.

Would it be possible to have a spring shop make me the extra leaf I need to turn my 3+1 pack into a metric ton 4+1 metric ton pack. Then just add that leaf to my current pack?

Did it months ago, love it actually.

That should work great, thanks.

How can I fix this: I'm fairly certain they are not supposed to be loose and flapping about in the wind.

I really appreciate it everyone, now that I have looked at the parts cherokee it all kinda makes sense now. Luckily I was able to use the adjuster clip thing from my 95xj on the 90mj cable so all was fixed very easily after all that.

When you say you had to drill the hole, was there a clear indicator of where that hole should be (stamped into body?) or was it something you had to guess about? And did you drill the hole with all of the trans/engine combo in place already?

While researching this topic today I found this thread: http://comancheclub.com/topic/43053-hole-in-firewall-for-floor-shifter-cable-aw4/?hl=floor+shift In it is is stated that there was already a premade hole for the shorter shifter cable to route through the trans tunnel. Can anyone else verify that information? If so then it seems fairly simple and straight forward to use the shorter cable.

So I had preformed an 4wd swap a few months back now. Everything has been fine and dandy until yesterday. When leaving for work pulling my floor shift from park to reverse it bond up and quickly made a breaking noise. Once at work I was unable to get it to shift back into park or actually anything really. After further investigation the plastic mounting tabs at the shifter end were broken, so after work ended I fabbed up a small bracket to retain the cable end at the shifter side. The bracket works great. After all that it still feels wrong and to shift it into reverse from park I have to pull back very very far on the shifter, seems like there is too much slack and well my adjuster seems to also be broken from the binding. So long story short, instead of buying another (it would be my third) $70 cable, is it possible to use the much smaller floor shift cable from a 95xj? The floor shift cable for my MJ is super long and exits the cab up on the firewall near the drivers door/fender. I have a 95xj parts jeep that all my 4wd stuff came from but the cable seems much smaller and like it enters/exits the cab at a completely different place. Will I be able to swap the shorter XJ cable into place? Will I have to drill holes in the cab to make it work? Anybody have any ideas? Right now I am parking it in neutral and setting the parking brake I want to fix this as soon as I'm off work tonight I hate having something f-ed up like this.

Get one from a 91 and up. Already drilled and tapped...... That's what I'm showing, that is a 1990 engine with a 1995 thermostat.

Just got back a week later than planned, not really a bad thing when that means more vacation. I mentioned I would post pics I hope this helps you and isn't too late.

Not really sure I can help there as I still have my renix 4.0 and just left my gauge sender in it's stock location. I do know that you will not be able to use one sensor for both the gauge and ecu.

I will gladly post a pic of the fix I did when it am around my truck again, I'm at beach vacationing right now and will be with my truck again tomorrow after midnight. In the meantime I will try to describe it as best as I can. I used a thermostat housing from a 1995 XJ 4.0, it has a threaded port on the drivers side of the housing. This is a different housing than what is on the renix 4.0 but bolts up perfectly (the gaskets are the same the only difference is the threaded port). I then threaded the renix CTS into this threaded port, it's thread was a perfect match. I then extended the wiring from the CTS sensor itself so that I didn't have to modify my factory harness. Took me about 30mins total from start to finish. Super easy and has fixed my problem with fighting my CTS. Best pic I have at the moment is in the thread I linked it is a picture showing the two housings.

You could try this, I started this post and then just went ahead and did it. It has solved my issue and I have noticed no problems from running mine like this. http://comancheclub.com/topic/43807-relocating-cts-to-thermostat-housing/?do=findComment&comment=445431

On both my 90 and 95 aw4s the arm that the cable hooks to on the transmission side is a lever that is held on by a nut, I'm sure that if the newer version is different you could just swap that lever over fairly easily. I'm not sure though but from what I can imagine it should be pretty simple.

Muddfoot, hopefully we can get this figured out then between the two of us so that maybe hose clamps and leaky lines can become a thing of the past.

As far as I know yes it is a 3/8 line. I'm sure if there is a threaded connection on my radiator I will be able to remove it simply, the truck is incredibly clean and nothing has given my any problems yet. On my 95xj I have replaced the radiator twice and both times I just threaded the connector out and placed it into the new radiator. I have never had it been a non removable part of the radiator. Is it simply an HO vs renix thing? If so I will swap to open cooling if that's what I have to do to make these lines the way I would like. Thanks to everyone for their help. I appreciate all of it. I will keep researching and hopefully I find it before I get back to my truck but if not I will figure it out then and post back to hopefully help anyone in the future.