Dando

I have not tested the fuel pressure, and the vacuum line going from the map to the throttle body is somewhat questionable but I am having trouble getting one specifically made for it and the parts from store are not quite right.

#1 I have already refreshed the grounds and added the additional 4ga cables #3 I have cleaned with electronics spray cleaner all under good connectors then I applied dielectric grease to them #4 coil is new and connections were sanded, cleaned, and dielectric greased #5 when doing as the instructional states I probed at the tps and when hooked to the negative my ohm reading is 00.3, this number doesn't change even slightly no matter where I grab and shake on harnesses.

Just changed the o2 sensor so hopefully that will help

So on my 90 4.0 aw4, I am experiencing a problem that only happens after the truck has been driven for about an hour on and off in the evenings. Seems to be only when the truck is really warmed up. But I can also drive for the same amount of time in the morning or after sunset and it seems fine. Well anyway the problem seems to be that it is running rich and when I go to put more throttle the truck sputters and if I am coming out of a full stop the truck will stall out. It starts right back up easily after this and then will take off fine, if I feather the throttle it will stutter down to low Rpms and then surge back and then jerk to take off. When on the highway it will almost feel like a lag when you hit the throttle. But as I said in the last section this is totally intermittent, it happened last night around 8pm while I was making a 40min drive, but then a few hours later on the drive home it ran just fine. So what do you think may be causing this? I have been fighting a running rich condition since buying the truck. The only sensors that haven't been changed out yet that I can think of are my coolant temperature sender and my o2 sensor. Do you think either of these could cause this problem or do I have another issue of sorts? Thanks

Started on the body work, taking longer than expected. Thankfully the body is rust free and pretty much straight, I'm just taking my time and making it smooth. Getting closer but still not right: Still got some more work ahead:

Did it to my old cherokee to replace the entire floors. It's can be done but it will definetly not be pretty. I used thicker metal as patches and burned into that and allowed the weld pool to just barely "bleed" over into the sheet.

So when swapping my aw4 from my 95 to my 90mj I used the lines from the MJ. I have a leak from both lines where they enter the trans. I have replaced the plastic quick connects twice because the lines were popping off, now I have them safety wired on and they haven't popped. Right now all I have on the trans lines are the plastic quick connects, am I missing an oring or a seal?

I am looking for a vacuum canister for my 90 4.0 with cruise and a/c. I currently don't have one as the stock one is cracked apart after 25 years. Would love to have the ac keep running as I throttle it up and would love to get my cruise control working. Anyone have an extra one laying around?

Awesome, also curious on what sizes of plugs and adapters to get to the rubber hose you used. And have you experienced any negative braking (locking up etc)?

I am getting conflicting answers while searching this subject. Can I simply delete it from the system and plug the emergency diversion line or must I use the XJ distribution block? Either doesn't matter to me I have a parts cherokee out back. Just looking for the simplest reliable work around. Thanks.

As an update I actually found an inline fm modulator made by audiovox, I installed in behind the dash and wired it into my stock radio antenna. Works great so far and at $45 it was worth the money in my opinion.

I would like to try to do this to my truck this evening, has anyone done this mod recently as I am just alittle bit confused and have a few questions about how to hook it up. I am confused about the description of hooking a left and right positive and grounds, the speaker wires I'm used to have two wires not four.

My blue 1990 does:

Just wanted to update will post pics tomorrow when it's day light. 4wd swap is almost finished, only part left to swap over is the actual in cab 4wd shifter.

I am also interested in getting a run of these made, now that the 4wd swap is done my next project is body and paint and would love to keep my pioneer decals.

Sorry I was camping and didn't see your response to my post, they are just some random brand of LEDs from orielys auto parts. But they were cheap enough to take the gamble and see how they work. I am very pleased so far. With the lights off while camping: Turned on:

Here are mine. I ran mine 12v constant with a hidden outdoor switch, when off you can't tell they are there at all.

Front axle from the 95 XJ, pic taken before degreasing and pressure washing. The axle is currently sitting in the bed of the comanche waiting for the weekend to install.

Pulled everything out and just wanted to update this thread. My problem was the torque converter not being seated properly. Had to pull it all out again but just reinstalled it with no such problems this time, thanks everyone.

I swapped in a 95 4wd aw4 into my 90 MJ which was previously 2wd aw4. After bolting everything up the engine is locked up like something is binding. I pulled the inspection cover and saw this. I tried loosening all the bolts and wiggling things to see if anything would get the flywheel to move and I had no luck. It seems almost like my flywheel is pushed up against the block and refuses to move. Got any ideas on things to try or things to look at to solve this?

And is that the yoke end or pinion end Pete? Looking at mine the non rubber end would be the yoke end (transmission side)

I need a longer 4wd version of the speedo cable. I mounted the np231 from a 95 XJ into my 90 MJ and now I need the cable. Thanks

With the speedo, I have the electronic pieces in there just so I don't have an open hole. My mechanical speedo does seem to hook up just fine it just simply isn't long enough to reach the transfer case. I plan on finding a speedo cable from either a 4wd XJ or MJ and then it should bolt right in. And for the ax 15 crossmember brackets I actually have no idea as I actually have an AW4 in mine. Although if it helps the aw4 seems to be the same regardless of it being 2wd or 4wd.

Yes I did mean wary. I guess I am just very curious about this and don't know much (ie nothing) about driveshaft designs. What's the problem with balancing it?

Added this to the MJ today: