schardein

I did a quick google search for pictures but nothing. I'm sure someone here has pictures, even if it is only the indicator with wire and clip.

So lower section of dash should be off? When you shift, you'll notice the whole lower portion of the column moves with the shifter. This is the piece the clip attaches to, on it's lower edge. Best guess is it clips on between 2 o'clock and 3 o'clock as you are looking at it from the driver seat. I would pull the main dash panel off to get a good look. It might be possible to get at it from reaching up under the dash, not sure.

If you have the column shifter, the indicator is attached to a small wire with a clip on the end. The wire goes through the plastic gauge housing, and the clip attaches to the lower end of the steering column, where it passes through the dash on the way to the floor. The clip has probably slipped/moved a little. It's a very low tech setup, but it can be difficult to see and understand unless you've had the dash apart. It can also be difficult to adjust because it's hard to get your fingers in there.

Cherokee are the same column. However, the auto Cherokees will be floor shifters. Auto/column in Cherokees are extremely rare, only ones I know of are police models. They were used so the floor was open to mount radios. I don't know what years are interchangeable, except that 95-96 XJ columns are different as they added air bags.

The switch is expensive new (~$100 back when I was searching), difficult to find in the junkyards, and as mentioned by Minuit, difficult to remove/replace. I finally found one about a year ago in a junkyard but haven't gotten far enough on my "to do" list to put it in. Whenever that job gets close to the top, I usually have something else that is easier that moves up and takes its place :shake: Honestly, I'd rather swap in a whole tilt column already equipped with delay wipers than have to remove/replace that switch. Unfortunately, tilt/column shift columns are also hard to find. That said, if you find one in the junkyard, just get the whole column.

Are you looking for some? I may have some if 4.0ho stuff is the same?

All I'd have to do is press on the new collars. Maybe I'll just go that route. I have the axle apart replacing an open diff with a truetrac, replacing the leaf spring seats, clean/paint. Seemed a shame to not replace the seals while it was apart after sitting for 10 years. I appreciate everyone's input.

I see your point. I have Timkens on it now, and they were more expensive than $22 ten years ago. So in the end did you cut them off? Also, I've already removed my lock collars and sourced replacement lock collars and seals. I've always thought the procedure was drill/cold chisel the lock collars and then press off the bearing. Your saying you tried to press both the collar and bearing off together? I wonder if it would make a difference?

Haha... axle bearings put on new about 10 years ago, axle ran for less than 10,000 miles, and then parked for 10 years. Now the seals are 10 years old with no use, but the bearings are like new... see what I'm saying? I want to replace the seals and the bearing retaining rings, but find it fiscally irresponsible to replace the bearings. If forced one way or the other, I would run the old seals and hope for the best before I replace the bearings. With that said, I will be buying that bearing removal tool and doing it myself. By the time I rebuild two other Dana 44s, I'll be about even considering what I've been quoted by local machine shops for the work.

Before I moved a couple years ago, I worked out of a one car garage-sized building. I say it that way because even though it had a garage door on the front of it, it wasn't a garage, it had a raised wooden floor. One day I scored a high amp alternator that looked brand new at the junkyard. Took it home, stepped into the workshop, and tried to figure out where to put it. "On the shelf behind the toolbox", I thought. I carefully walked around stacks of parts and boxes, over to the tool box. Went to put the alternator behind it... only discover there was one already there. That I completely forgot I had.

I have driven a few AX15s, and I have a NV3550 in my CJ7. Yes, the NV3550 does have some gear noise while just sitting with the engine running, trans in neutral, clutch released. I'm not sure it would be heard in an MJ with carpet, but I can hear it in my CJ. Both transmissions have an overdrive that offers a substantial reduction in cruising rpms, which allows you to run your axle gears a little lower if you want to and still be able to run on the highway. By contrast, the six speed NSG379 doesn't have a very steep overdrive, but makes up for it with a lower first gear. I run 35s with 4.56 . It drives great, I can take off from a dead stop with no throttle and cruise all day at 75 mph. I've driven two different NV3550s, and both of them could be a little twitchy getting into second. If you try to speed shift, it will grind sometimes. Having a split second pause while shifting 1-2 cures it, for me. As stated above, I'd take either I could find/get a good deal on.

SEM brand "Color Coat" paint for plastics is great stuff that I've had excellent results with. However, my personal opinion is that it is best used to freshen up parts back to the original color. I did change the color on some interior parts in a K5 Blazer, from white to saddle tan, and with very good results. While the stuff is surprisingly durable, I wouldn't expect it to hold up in high traffic areas.

Jtrux, thanks. That first one is a diff carrier bearing puller. I have a vintage "Willys" special tool kit for pulling diff bearings. That second one looks like the ticket though. It's $281 on Amazon. Thinking about my first post, I actually have three D44s, not sure I plan to re-use the bearings on all 3, but I do know the history on the one I am working now. And in the end, I could spend nearly the cost of that puller at the machine shop having bearings/seals replaced, and I firmly believe in the adage, if you want it done right, do it yourself.

I am working on a D44, and have another waiting for work to be done. I want to pull the axle bearings, replace the seals, and re-install the original bearings with new retaining rings. I have a press, but it isn't wide enough to allow the axle flange to pass through. I called a machine shop, and you would have thought I suggested killing kittens when I said reuse the bearings. He stated he had never been able to get the originals off without damaging them, and buying the "right tool" for doing it was to expensive (?????? !!) Soooo, I'm looking to see if anyone has successfully pulled and re-used the axle bearings. Is there a homemade press "accessory" that makes it possible at home? Anyone familiar with a specific bearing puller tool? If it comes to replacing the bearings, I can just cut off the old ones (for free!) and pressing the new ones on won't be a problem because the axle flange doesn't have to pass through the press floor to put the bearings on. Although, yes, I've heard they can be a bear (requiring heating the bearing to expand it and make it easier to go on)

I think it's interesting to note the J10 was produced until 1988, two years after Chrysler bought Jeep.

This type of manifold is available from many sources, and they don't crack. At least, the ones I have on my XJ and MJ haven't, and both came off junkyard XJs.

Just curious-- were tailgate handles ever painted the body color from the factory? I'm thinking they were only black or chrome.

I used one very similar, about the same price, just not chrome. Put it on when I added the cruise to my non-cruise truck. Everything worked fine. Also, it is a delay wiper stalk, and although I haven't switched out my non-delay wiper switch (yet), it operates the two speed wipers fine.

You can tell because it doesn't have the 4x4 emblems ;) or the Comanche emblems :shake:

That's exactly what I'm interested in. I am going from original (old) standard springs to these, and wondering what the best route will be for leveling the front end, assuming it needs it.

Windshield washer level sensor connection. The light is in the indicator cluster to the left of the gauges. Reservoirs from similar year Cherokees may have the sensor and are a direct swap/plug in.

I picked up my springs on Saturday. They look like quality pieces. While we were putting these in my truck, I asked about some rubber strips seen on Cherokee rear leaf spring clamps. I'm looking for a source for that stuff in bulk. His reply was, he might have what I was looking for, as there were some rubber pieces on the pallets when the springs are shipped in from Mexico. I didn't say anything, but this caught my attention, because I've seen it said in this thread that these are an American made product. He said it twice during our conversation, "when the springs arrive from Mexico". The springs have part numbers and USA painted on them. I couldn't find "made in the USA" anywhere on the General Spring website. The location where I picked these up certainly isn't a manufacturing facility. FYI.

Carrier change on a Dana 44 is 3.73. New carrier needed at 4.11 and numerically lower gears.

If that was my truck... I think I'd keep the tailgate and make a bench to remember the truck by.