schardein

I'm pretty stoked to write this update. I'd like to publicly thank Manche757 for walking me through the wiring work (4 pages of private messages), helping to get me to this point. Thank you! Today I fired up the newly wired oven and powder coated my first part. I'm sure most everyone here will recognize the battery hold down support bracket (which oddly enough, I can't find in the parts manual). 1st pic- original part 2nd pic- bead blasted 3rd pic- first coat 4th pic- second coat

I'm not convinced that the fuel line is exactly the same as the power steering line, but if it is, it's exactly what I'm looking for. That flaring tool is on my wish list on Amazon. If I could confirm it will do PS o-ring flares, I would probably pull the trigger.

That's a fair point. I'll tell a story, that I think I have related on CC before, for a different point of view. When I swapped the J10 D44 (narrowed) into my CJ, I reused the CJ spring plates, and used new 1/2" u-bolts (which a CJ uses from factory). I noticed that even at factory torque specs, the stock CJ spring plates were deforming as I tightened the u-bolts (w/ a torque wrench). Months later, I would get a "clicking & popping" sound from the front driver side when turning, especially when "dry turning" (turning the steering wheel when not moving). I determined it was coming from the leaf spring moving on the axle spring pad and mounting plate. I re-torqued the bolts, which helped, but it soon came back. Then, I did some other work requiring the u-bolts to be loosened, so I decided to replace them with new. I got the Barnes 5/8 u-bolts and matching 3/8" thick spring plates. The plates do NOT deform, even under the MUCH higher torque spec of the 5/8" bolts. Permanently cured my problem, even after removing/reinstalling again, for other work (I know, not recommended). I guess my point is, I don't agree that the factory stuff is necessarily sufficient. Maybe barely. The fact that I, and Coolwind57, have found factory MJ D44 spring plates deformed backs that opinion up, at least I think so. I would even speculate that going to 5/8" u-bolts, might require going to a stronger (thicker) custom spring plate, which are readily available, except for the shock mount being built into it. If they can't stand up to factory 14mm torque specs, I'd be concerned with the 5/8" torque specs.

I may have some also. Needed one a year or so ago, and grabbed several from the junkyard. Should be able to search a little today.

Great info so far. Personally, I would have sourced proper center pins even if it meant mail ordering them and waiting on shipping. But that's been covered, I won't beat it to death. I used Barnes u-bolts on my CJ's front D44. 5/8 u-bolts are full size 3/4 ton truck territory. Overkill, but in a good way. I'll be using them in the rear of the CJ eventually. I've seen drivehshaft work vary widely in price. I had one shortened for a K5 Blazer in 1987 for $37. Even in those ancient times, I was surprised at how inexpensive it was. Since them I've had several other done, at different price points. Shop around, if your local area has options, check with all of them.

Jeremy, I'm glad to see you post again and hope things work out for the best going forward. If there is anything we can do to help, please don't hesitate to ask.

Jeremy (Minuit) is the stereo guru. Nice score! If possible, snap a couple pics, get the vin and add it to the registry.

That gauge cluster is either sold, or they pulled the listing after I contacted them. If it was sold, I hope the buyer knows what they were doing.

Nope. I called O-Reilly's and the local tractor shop, neither can reproduce that line end. My "local" Napa (50min drive) said they can't make it. I found this (see 1st pic). Dorman 800233. That looks exactly right, even the nut is the right size. But, it's to short for my requirements, and has that bend in it- would prefer a straight line so I can bend as needed. Bubble flares I am familiar with don't leave that short tip on the end to retain the o-ring. Thanks for all the responses. I found this (2nd pic) on Rockauto, it's what I need but to short. The search continues. I've resisted the urge to convert to AN fittings and build my own hose, that's a last ditch option.

I hate to see items incorrectly listed, like that one. I contacted the seller and gave the correct info. We'll see if it gets updated.

Bingo

I don't know of any local places that makes hydraulic lines, although the local O-Reillys makes lines for tractors and such. So you think they could put the crimp on the end of the line? Like this:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/USED-94-Jeep-Grand-Cherokee-Pioneer-Rear-Emblem-Logo-Script-93-94-95-96-97-98/222882915973?hash=item33e4db6685:g:TigAAOSwVHdaqZt5

I need a straight length of power steering steel pressure line, maybe 12"-18" long, with one end having the standard o-ring (like on our PS pump or gear connections). Other end just square cut. I've searched junkyards for a line to just cut the rubber hose off of, but every line I look at has a sharp bend (or bends) right after the nut. I need something straight, so I can make my own bends. Anyone know a source?

I agree that squaring/beveling helps get good flares. I've been doing mine by hand with a taper reamer and a file, thanks for posting that tool, looking at them now.

After doing several brake lines recently with my old bar & clamp type flare tool, I bought this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XPRVCPV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Looks like the same thing. I've seen a lot of positive reviews, but haven't used it yet.

Wow, that's a great find. Ronald Reagan would have approved. A friend of mine in VA has a restored Golden Eagle Scrambler.

Needed to make a run into town, so made it all inclusive and hit the local PnPs. Found an aWeSoMe steering wheel mod. 88 XJ Olympics Edition The haul for the day.

Very cool.

That's what I've heard. I plan to take careful measurements during the install. Still a ways off, hopefully this summer. The center pin will hold the leaf pack together during axle removal. You only need to C-clamp the spring if removing the center pin for some reason, like putting a different size one in, or putting in an add-a-leaf.

Great info. Just to be clear, we are talking Isuzu Rodeo, correct? Not any other model? And did your axle come with a finned aluminum rear diff cover? I recall looking at one in a junkyard about a decade ago, and it had this. Can't say for sure it was a 44 with this posted info though.

Took some measurements on my springs and axle pad yesterday. Springs are General Springs metric ton w/ military wrap & 1" lift over stock. Center pin is 3/8", head of pin is 9/16". D44 axle pad locator holes matches at 9/16".

I still get the one about the extended car warranty, daily, in the mid morning. Newest ride is 2001. I never answer.

I liked the bench seat in my 78 Chevy K20. Plenty of room for activities. Not trying that in the MJ. My bench was (and is) in great shape, but the buckets are more comfortable. I can't see putting three adults in an MJ for much longer than a trip down the block, and that's if it's an auto.

Hm, I like this idea. Going through my "stuff" yesterday, I have a ~12' length of 6/3 with that plug on one end, and the matching male plug on the other end. So, sort of a homemade extension cord. Remove the male end and wire to a breaker in the box. My shop is 24x60, so nowhere close to full coverage, but gives some options. The breaker box is right next to a pallet rack shelf, so this would get me to the other side of it. It is a stiff cord. What size welding cable would work, same size? I have some 1 and 1/0 on hand, more flexible but way overkill. Still doesn't help get the oven wired in? My house wiring education is high school shop class. Much more comfortable with DC (car) wiring, had more training.