schardein

I'm not familiar with the blue chime box with the wire. What's the deal on that part?

I don't know about the Chevy steering wheels, but that CJ one in the auction has a deeper "dish" than a XJ/MJ/YJ wheel. Meaning the rim of the wheel sticks out further from the horn button. I don't know how it would affect access/drivability in an XJ/MJ, but I know in my CJ switching between the two had an affect on room for my thighs to swing under the steering wheel when getting in. The CJ wheel gave more room, the XJ/MJ/YJ one hit my thighs.

Given this, is it reasonable to assume the unmarked relay (lower picture) is "made in USA"?

Thanks for that reply, good info. Especially the part about the 89 prefix. All the times I've looked at these and never noticed the USA ones had that prefix.

Just an observation on the headlamp delay relay, part #56000636. Early ones were made in the USA. Later ones were made in Mexico. I've never bothered to narrow down when the changeover happened. I've also seen some that are not marked with a location of manufacture. I can't recall ever finding one that didn't work, regardless of where it was made.

Going through boxes and found these. If you still need them, $1+shipping

That looks really nice.

I'm a big fan of replacing the factory bumper mounting clips with those brackets. Most of the XJ/MJ bumpers I remove, those clips seize, twist, and break. The brackets work so much better even if you aren't running the tow hooks & other related hardware.

Thanks. Perhaps you could cut & tape a cardboard box to the dimensions of the refrigerators for a test fit to get an idea.

I run bucket seats without a center console, and my measurements match up with Pete's, about 8". But it's going to be tight between the floor side seat belts. And at 15" tall, I don't think that fridge will be a "good" fit in the small cab of an MJ. With that said, I have a Dometic CDF11 mounted between the front seats of my 2001 Silverado. I removed the factory center console, and used the existing floor bracket as a base to build a custom mount bracket. It is absolutely awesome on road trips. It works so well I will do the same mod on any future tow rigs I own if it is at all possible. The pictures are of my first version. Later, I got the floor bracket from a truck that had a center jump seat/console. That bracket is a little beefier, and taller, and has cup holders mounted at the front near the floor. https://www.amazon.com/Dometic-Electric-Powered-Cooler-Freezer/dp/B075J5VVN7/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIqqvo34bp6wIVh4bACh2iKgUSEAAYASAAEgJTgvD_BwE&hvadid=328081090510&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9023661&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=514828795884349345&hvtargid=kwd-299753351179&hydadcr=753_1012309666&keywords=cdf11&qid=1600100472&sr=8-1&tag=googhydr-20

That first picture... that was a weird day at the JY. First, the counter person told me they didn't have any XJs. Then I found 3 of them out there. I said something to them when I checked out, and they didn't really have an explanation. Then, I got an email for a survey (this is from Pick-n-Pull). So I replied about the inventory mistake and about what I considered a rude/unprofessional way I was asked to wear a mask. To my surprise, I received a reply from the store manager of that actual location, offering a possible explanation for the inventory mistake and explaining the City Ordinance that they have to follow and apologizing for any unprofessional behavior. I was pretty impressed by the reply. I thought the survey would go to a corporate office somewhere and have little or no effect. I was wrong. Also, there is a couple of brand new saw blades, a crowbar, 3/8 ratchet (cheap one), 17mm Craftsman wrench, and Irwin clippers in that pic. I found all of those items in different vehicles at that yard. I ponder the ethics of walking out with that stuff, but think back to the time I left a 1/4" ratchet, set of short standard sockets on a rail, short and long extension, and swivel joint (all Snap-On) at a yard, and didn't realize it until I was 3 hours away. Win some, lose some.

You might know that those colored electrical plugs fit in the fuse blocks of GM and Jeep vehicles 1979-late 80s. Each different color is "keyed" to a specific location in the fuse block. Anytime I add an electrical circuit to my Jeeps, I use these plugs to pick up power from the fuse block. Makes for a clean installation. I used to cut a longer pigtail to splice the wire onto, but I now have the terminal that fits that connector housing, so I just run a new terminal and wire these days. Terminal is GM 12020320 for a 16-14ga wire, available from various places including Amazon. The different locations in the fuse block are also powered differently. Some are B+, some are ign only, or ign/acc, some tap into the panel lighting circuit and dim with the panel lights, perfect for adding gauges. In the last pic, you can see an orange connector, which are rare.

Just completed the Jeep Jamboree in Ouray, CO. On the way out and back, hit 5 junkyards. Here are some pics. Found a super early XJ that had "Four Wheel Drive" on the rear fenders instead of the usual "4x4". Found an interesting water neck repair. Scored a nice set of Turbines and a decent XJ/MJ steering wheel Got a license plate lamp from an XJ with the optional factory swing out spare tire carrier And a nice assortment of XJ/MJ odds and ends.

If you still need these, send me a PM, I probably have some.

Pete this might help. These have been cut down in length to work with an early grill but using later headlight bezels, but you get the idea.

Very cool. I looked for one of these modules. Pass side kick panel, right? Either they were already snagged, or didn't come with them? In your experience, did all Camaros have these, or were they an option? I'm assuming you got these at a pull-a-part type place, as opposed to eBay or whatever.

Jeremy, it's obvious you've thought this all through. I have a comment/question. The panic button on my Silverado honks the horn. If you used a remote with a panic button, couldn't you use it to honk the horn? That way it would have a function and not be a pointless/useless button. Or does the Camaro module not support that?

Here is a remote and a smoked dome sensor I pulled from an XJ. It's been long time so I don't recall the year, but something in the 91-96 range I think. I was interested in getting it working until I read about how bad they are.

I think you misunderstood me. If you could find a new sport bar light panel, but missing the switch... you could take the fog light switch out of an XJ panel and put it in the roll bar light panel. Same switch, same part number. You could take a right hand panel from a XJ or MJ and peel off the front cover, and replace it with one with the correct sport bar icon. As I said, I thought someone was working on reproducing them. Just offering possible options. If you prefer a genuine original part, I get it.

Are you wanting just the rocker switch, or the switch and panel? The switch can be sourced from a fog light equipped XJ, not rare, but getting harder to find. The panel is very rare, but isn't someone working on reproducing them?

Column shift XJs were made, but they are very rare. Generally speaking, any automatic transmission equipped XJ will have a console shifter. If you do find an XJ with a column shifter, it is probably optioned with a "police package" that may have a 120mph speedometer cluster and an extended idle switch on the dash. If you want to keep your original ignition key, keep in mind at some point the key design changed. I don't recall the date of the change, but I'm sure someone will chime in. An 87-95 YJ Wrangler auto column may fit?

I know exactly what you mean. In my CJ, I wired in a toggle switch in the engine compartment to be able to turn off the under hood light when I have the hood up on long projects. You have to have a tool (like a small flat tip) to get that lens off also.

Thanks for the replies. I'm going to try and figure this out. My research into the original lights shows they have an option to turn the light off completely. I interpret this means even when you open the door, the light remains off? The original light has 3 "positions". The Blazer light has a 2 position rocker switch. I think that is where the "completely off" function is lost. Thinking about it, I'm not sure having all the lights come on is a bad thing, besides the fact it's not how the originals worked.

My understanding of the B pillar lights is one hot wire, hot all the time. One ground wire controlled by the switch at the b pillar light itself, and another ground wire controlled by the door switch (and by turning the headlight knob). I'm trying to picture a different way to attach the existing wires but coming up blank.