schardein

You're welcome. Glad you got it done, looks great!

Yes. $1 each, pay shipping? Msg me your address and I'll get a total cost. I'll test the two I send by inserting them in a spare switch housing and removing them. If they don't break they should be good for a couple installs/removals. And a tip: when I replace these, I use male/female spade quick disconnects, or male/female bullet type disconnects to make the connections, rather than a splice or butt connector. That way if they ever break again, I don't have to cut the factory harness shorter every time I have to replace one.

How many do you need?

I had not heard that General Spring is now importing their product. I find that interesting. I have been to both General Spring in KC, and St Louis Spring. Neither of them are manufacturing facilities. I doubt very much they are making you a spring. They are importing it from somewhere. I know this isn’t what you asked, but several years ago I bought the military wrap metric ton springs from General Spring, and picked them up in person. Back then, they claimed their springs were made in USA, but the pallet they were on was marked Mexico. I would shop around for the least expensive price, because I would bet they were all the same thing, made in the same place.

That wire from the turn signal stalk (in your picture) is for cruise control only. If you don't have cruise, it isn't needed. If you replaced the ignition switch, and it was in bad shape, did you check the terminals and connectors that plug into the ignition switch? If they are burnt, melted, or damaged, they need replaced as well. Replacing the switch is only half the solution if the connectors/terminals are damaged.

The pink wire for the courtesy light is hot all the time. This is because the door switches for the courtesy lights controls the ground circuit. The lights receive power all the time. Open the door, and the lights come on when the door switches complete the ground circuit. So using the pink wire, the cargo lamp would be able to be turned on at any time, whether the key is on or not. Some may prefer that. Loading a lot of stuff at night, just turn the switch on and you don't have to have the key on or engine running. But, like I said earlier, you do have the possibility of leaving it on and running down your battery. I've never looked to see how the cargo light usually gets power. If you are wiring from scratch, you could always pick up power directly at the fuse box, using the power ports that are already there. See the pic (the pic is turned 90 degrees so it's easier to read). The ports marked with white/pink at BAT (hot all the time). The one marked gray is also BAT hot. The one marked brown is hot with IGN (key on). The one marked green is ACC (hot with key in run or accessory). You can use a regular spade terminal to plug into these ports, or a better solution, use the specific plastic connectors keyed to those ports, and the terminals made specifically for them, 2nd pic.

And just for general knowledge, here is how the Jeep Cherokee/Comanche fog light switch is wired. The cargo light switch is the same part.

Here are the pictures. You can see the orientation of the wires in the switch connector. Also, you can see the wire that carries power to the light, goes to a connector. That is the connector Ohm is talking about, behind the driver side kick panel. The wire is marked with blue tape near the connector. At the other side of the connector, the wire would run along the door sill, up the b pillar, and be taped to the back of the cab near where the light would be.

I believe that pink wire is hot all the time. I don't know off hand how the cargo switch is wired from the factory. But if it is hot all the time, you could accidentally leave the cargo light on and drain the battery. Using a power source that is only hot with the key on would eliminate that.

Yes, the power wire to the actual light is not there either, after 1989. The pink power wire (above the b pillar) that you are asking about, goes through a connector after it leaves the switch. That connector is located behind the driver lower kick panel, sort of behind the area where the park brake assembly is. That is what OHM is trying to explain. You can look there, rather than remove the b pillar to look for it. I may have some pictures of the cargo light harness, I will post if I find them.

They stopped installing the wiring for the cargo light in 1990, I believe, unless the truck was actually optioned with it. My 91 isn't pre-wired for it. Earlier models were all pre-wired for it, making it easier to add.

Sorry to hear this. A whole day wasted. All because a business was to lazy or to incompetent to know what they have in inventory. I would 100% name the shop that screwed me like that.

Interesting

LBE AMBIENT LIGHT what is this referring to? It has a sunroof. Could it be that?

Yep I only had so much room, and so much time. But yes, I have the tailgate, and rear cab carpet. Left the hitch, and a lot of other valuable stuff. Those are the factory Eliminator wheels in the back of the bed. Along with an extra hood (straight) and the driver side tail light lens.

thanks for the update, good to know!

Header panel was cracked even though you can't see it. Probably repairable if someone wanted to make the effort. Sad thing is the whole truck was repairable- it definitely could have been saved. It was dented. Odd thing, manual trans, but the steering column didn't have the "key release" lever. It seemed like it was an auto column from a XJ, no key release lever, but also no shift lever (console shift). I always look at steering columns, and can't ever recall seeing a manual without the key release lever.

Yes, we've talked before about how them 84-85s are their own animals. I will definitely be taking a look though.

Great info, except I'm a little sick over how many XJs I've looked at in junkyards and never knew that clip was there.

I guess Grenadine is like a burgundy? It did have the Cordovan interior.

Anything in there to specify an Eliminator? I can confirm it had the D44, 3.07, Limited slip.

I remember reading somewhere, that if a speaker is not marked positive and negative on the terminals, you can use a 9 volt battery and some short jumper wires as a test. Touch the leads to the terminals of the speaker momentarily. The speaker woofer will move. If it moves out, you have the polarity correct. If it moves back, the leads are backwards. Reverse them and try again to confirm. I think I read that in the electrical tips column in the old JP magazine.

There are various work arounds. One would be to just zip tie the handle to the bracket, knowing you would have to cut it if you ever used the jack handle.

The clip goes on the metal bracket circled in red.