jpnjim

4:1ish first has been around in 4 & 6 cylinder Jeeps for a while, it was the only thing that made 1980's CJ's drivable with the 2.73:1 gears. :ack: They would spec a taller 3.5ish first gear in V8 Jeeps, the taller first gave the trans a higher torque capacity, and the V8 didn't need as low of a first anyway. T-18's were the exception tho, they used the 6.32:1 first (a real granny gear) in V8's & L6's. Some year T-18's got the 4.02 first (non-syncro), but it had more to do with the model & year than what engine it had. (my 73 J4000's T-18 had the 6.32:1 first). AX-15 vs NV3550: get which ever one you find first, NV3550's have a reputation for noise, and there was a syncro issue that 'seems' to mostly be with the 2000 model year (2001 got different syncro's). XJ NV3550's are kinda tough to find, since they were only made for two model years. (2000 & 2001, earlier 5spds were AX-15's, then Peugot's before that). Most people can get by with a TJ trans in an XJ/MJ (deal with the longer shifter, and reclock the t-case), but since you need a 2wd, that means getting an XJ, or maybe a 2wd 4cyl Dakota 5spd. (big ? on the last one, 4cyl Dakota's used NV3550's, with their own special bellhousing, I just don't know if they made 2wd 5spd 4cyl Dakota's :dunno: ). V8 Dakota's used NV3500's, same trans, but with a different bell pattern, and a NON-Removable bellhousing. I believe V6 Dak's also used the NV3500.

You mean like more Jeep SUVs? http://wikicars.org/en/Jeep_Compass http://wikicars.org/en/Jeep_Commander *snicker* I *like* that they made little cute-ute SUV-like-things, tho I really don't like the ones they made (does that make sense? :nuts: ). Jeep should have had some kind of an entry level crapbox ute from day one to compete with Suzuki & Subaru. Kids get mom's hand-me-down Subi wagon, and fall in love with the durability, 4x4, etc, Jeep should go after the 'mom' market, and reap the benefits of a potential customer for life from the kid that gets her hand-me-down. That said, I think the vehicles they chose to do this with (Compass & Patriot) don't really deliver the goods. 'Jeep' is still the most recognized vehicle in the world: ask any 3 year old what a Jeep is then ask him Ford, Chevy, Chrysler, Toyota, etc, it's a shame they're trying so hard to run it into the ground. :doh:

The disco housing itself is pretty strong, I've been running the same 87' Disco 30 since 1994, in three different Jeeps (yep, I just cursed myself). You can add a seal, and a 1-piece shaft, if you just want to lose the disco feature, or you can find big joint 2-piece YJ shafts (last couple years of YJ's had the bigger U-joints, with 2-piece shafts). Either way I didn't notice any MPG change after I swapped in a 1-piece shaft.

It's cool! I was sharing the same sentiments as you. :cheers: sometimes when I :fs1: it's like a shotgun blast, and gets everyone in sight. ;) I could see myself being very happy with even a 2wd JK Pickup. But if I was going 2wd, I'd want it bare bones (= cheap), I doubt they'd build them like that, so my 2nd choice would be a Maroon Rubicon JK Pickup. Back to dreaming about what we'll never get :doh:

Wow, sales are down, lets rehash an ancient picture of a Jeep we'll never build, and try to get the same suckers excited about a Jeep Pickup.... again. Nope, I am not biting this time. There has been absolutely no reason to NOT make an Unlimited based Jeep pickup, other than the fact that they do not want Jeep pickup trucks. Not negative towards you Terra :cheers: I just can't believe they're throwing the same tired old bait out at us again. I'll be the most excited guy on this board if they build one, but I'm not gonna believe a word out of their mouths until I see one at my local dealer.

What, you mean you didn't read mine from 2005? ;) http://www.jeepsunlimited.com/forums/sh ... p?t=372106

What? The Pioneer decals should be revered. I am so 'on the fence' about this. Somedays I want to strip them off 'Grandpa', other days I'm glad to have them in such good condition (Jeep was repainted at some point, decals look less than 10 years old to me). :dunno:

:yes:

damn, I had one of those and gave it away. :fs1: (I even had a chunk of diamondplate covering up the gap :yes: ) :bowdown: Even if I got chrome blinker posts for the front bumper, I can't compete with a plaid seat cover AND a gun rack. :ack: (from the sounds of it, I just KNOW that plaid seat cover has the magazine pouch on the front edge :doh: )

AMC 20 in the MJ's were all a 1 piece shaft from the factory. He's brought up in several threads that M20's are referred to as M23's when they came with 1 piece shafts (like in FSJ's). I've heard that tossed around before, but can't remember if I ever saw it in any of the factory books. It's possible, like the way 'all' Jeep T170 transmissions are usually called "T176's", even though the last number changed depending on what the gear ratio's were (L6's got the low first gear, V8's were taller, and a different T17x number). Either way, I still call all T17X Jeep transmissions T176's, and those round pith helmet diffs will always be Model 20's to me as well. :dunno: :cheers:

It's on! (furiously digs through JC Whitney catalog for gun rack, curb feelers, and chrome plastic hub caps)

Well if you're going for more of a 'Truck Build', than a 'Street Machine Build', get the NV3550. That way you'll get the more 'truckish' 4:1 low first, and as a bonus it'll even sound like a 2.5 ton dump truck. :yes: If you go with the Model 20, try to pick up a 1971 & older 'Twin Grip' differential. Those are the stronger Spicer Power Lok LSD's (2-piece carrier + 4 pinion gears). ~1972 they started using Trac-Lok's instead (1 piece case, 2 pinion gears & less bias).

Seems there's a pretty big difference in prices for these. I'll use Rock Auto as the example (87' Cherokee D44 used for application): http://www.rockauto.com Centric 122.63039 Brake Drum - Centric Preferred - Premium $36.79 AUTOSPECIALTY / KELSEY-HAYES Part # AD8339 $43.79 RAYBESTOS Part # 2515 More Info {PG Plus; Outside Diameter 12.59" / 5 Bolts / Finned} Rear; Dana 44 Axle; 10" X 2-1/2" Brakes $71.79 RAYBESTOS Part # 2515R More Info {Professional Grade; Outside Diameter 12.59" / 5 Bolts / Finned} Rear; Dana 44 Axle; 10" X 2-1/2" Brakes $46.79 ACDELCO Part # 18B77 More Info {#18028390} DRUM,RR BRK DURASTOP; DANA MDL 44 AXLE $90.79 I've also found: Crown 52001915 and Omix-ada 16701.09's at other places for ~$100 each. My first question is what is the difference between RAYBESTOS 2515R, and 2515 (Professional Grade vs Professional Grade Plus = almost double the money?) The website wasn't much help: http://www.raybestos.com/wps/portal/raybestos My next question would be what has anyone here used, and what were your results? And any other part numbers to add to the list? :cheers:

The MJ M20 only came with 4.10's (& in 1986 only). Good gears, but if you run an AX-15, or an NV3550 behind the 290, first will be really low for a small tire street truck (4:1ish x 4.10), and probably pretty useless most of the time. I guess it depends on what you're building it for, the AX-15/NV3550's wide gear spacing would be OK for a workhorse, but if you want it to be quick, you'd be better off with a closer ratio car based T-5 (= NOT one of the Jeep application T-5's), especially with the 4.10's. So, my opinion (for a street based V8 MJ) Mustang T-5 + 4.10 geared AMC M20, or Jeep AX-15/NV3550 + 3.15 to 3.55 geared whatever axle. That way you'd have a more reasonable first gear, and a tall highway cruizing gear. All that assuming 30", or shorter tire, 2wd daily driver type street truck.

:thumbsup: :thumbsup: to both MJ's :yes:

IIRC, yes I did have to use a HO gas pedal (when I swapped an HO engine into my 88' MJ). Mine is a 5spd, so I didn't have to deal with the TV cable from the transmission.

I thought the wife was going to say: "you want some of this?" and then he would respond "hell no, look what it did to your underwear" :thumbsup:

Ding ding ding ding :cheers: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... MEWAX%3AIT M422's aluminum D27. Thought the pic was weird enough to warrant a contest. :yes: Good writeup here: http://www.jeepsunlimited.com/mambo2/in ... &Itemid=31 Thanks for playing. :wavey:

By 'close' I meant he was on the right track. Next hint, the axle IS olive drab, but it's NOT from a MUTT (M151 or M151 variants)

Getting warm. :D Next hint, Dana center is SMALLER, and older than a D30. edit, reworded

I'm curious how tough this will be to get: Here's your first few hints, it is a rear axle (duh) made by Dana from a US production vehicle yep, those are drum brakes and the center section is aluminum. any guesses? :waving:

I have a cheap, plug in (non-battery) electric shaver. I shave twice a week & put up with a little neck burn when I start to sweat later in the day. (I'm an Electrician, so no one on the construction site really cares if I'm looking scraggly :chillin: )

I made those 5, or 6 years ago, atleast (feels more like 10 :ack: ). There was a JU thread, with back and forth discussion whether or not the original pic was a chop. Not wanting to miss an opportunity to mess with anyone's head, I starting chopping. :D When they posted this as 'evidence': I made this. :D

If that one's too long, you really don't like this one ;) : I used my 'mad paint skillz' to try it a few different ways: :D (funny thing is, I like the regular cab shortbed best. :dunno: )