Megadan

52000706AB is a part number for Cherokee leaf springs. I think you are going to find that those springs aren't going to be long enough, as the Comanche has longer leaf springs than the Cherokee. Roughly, there is about a 6 inch difference in eye to eye measure along the arc of the spring. No idea what the straight line distance is, but it is still a couple of inches off. I recently replaced my springs and noticed that many parts companies online mistakenly list the Cherokee springs to work with the Comanche as well. FWIW, I got my new leaf springs through sdtrucksprings.com Although, they seem to have gone up in price since I purchased mine (or I managed to get them on sale). The link to generalspringkc.com listed above looks to be a bit more affordable than sdtruck right now. Same spring specs.

A few days ago, I drove my truck to the store late at night, and then a few other errands and back home. ran fine. The next morning, I go to start it and it nearly dies but goes back to idling fine. Go to drive it, and wham, like a hammer it won't accelerate at all. Stumbles, backfires, pops, bucks. won't go anywhere. I've already done a ton of work to this thing, and I have even gone back over everything just to make sure something didn't go back and rechecked all of my sensors. Everything has been cleaned, probed, slapped, kicked, hit with a hammer. Even checked my new fuel filter to make sure it wasn't clogged. I checked all of the plugs, those are good. I threw in a new ICM thinking it was a possible candidate, and at first it was promising. It definitely ran better, but same issue. I threw the old one back in, just to make sure and yep, it ran worse than it did with the new one. So I put the new one back in. TPS is re-adjusted and tested. IAC is new. Distributor is new and indexed. MAP checks out fine. All sensor grounds check out fine. CPS shows 0.6V while cranking. Still won't accelerate, and the problem gets worse as it gets up to temp... Once hot, it barely runs and will die at idle. I am still going to test the fuel pressure, but the fact that it gets worse as the engine gets to operating temp leads me to think that isn't the problem. Everything is new except the regulator, and that shows no signs of leaks or failure (and was replaced by PO) At this point, I can only think it's the ECU... I am frustrated and at a loss. Right now I want to fill the bed with wood and gasoline and make a rolling fire pit out of it. Is there a way to test the ECU, or should I just gamble with a hundred bucks on a recon one and find out? Anybody happen to have a Renix ECU laying around not doing anything I could buy? I would hit up the Junkyards, but a bit dry on renix vehicles at the moment. EDIT. Truck is a 1988 Pioneer 4.0

I have a 1988 4.0. I used said Carter pump kit. Read the post above yours (mine) to know. I never saw a fuse on the pump circuit (not known to me at least) but the fuel pump relay is found on the passenger side inner fender and would be worth checking. If you have a test light (or multimeter), you could probe the power wire at the connector under the truck and see if you are getting voltage back to the pump. That would narrow it down. It could be your pump relay as well. This diagram shows it in the second position closest to the battery, but I have seen some diagrams that put it in the third (called power latch relay in picture) which swaps the two around.

Just for the heck of it, I took these pictures today. New wheels with the same tires. New shocks all around, new rear leaf springs, and just recently installed a new track bar on it (which made a HUGE difference). Still need to sort out a couple of things with how it runs on cold days, but it is mostly sorted. Yea, the shadowing kinda sucked. Still, she is an ugly critter on the outside, but solid and strong on the inside. I call her "The Heap" as my joking nickname. I got this shot so I could help answer some future wheel fitment questions that seem to pop up. I ordered these 15x7 4.25" BS wheels to go on the tires that were already installed on the truck and move the tires outboard more. While it does look better, I actually did it for a practical reason. I found evidence of the tires in the rear actually rubbing the frame when the axle was tilted one way or the other. Tires are just 235/75-15 And a night shot of the passenger side. You can see my high tech exhaust solution. 90 degree bend off my very large (30" body Magnaflow) muffler. It actually sounds good, but it's not loud at all either. In typical Magnaflow style, it only really barks when you get on the go-pedal a bit. With the mechanical stuff mostly sorted I can finally focus on getting the interior finished with carpet, headliner, and a good cleaning, and at least sort out the surface rust on the body from someones horrible fake patina sanding attempt.... which is why the paint is so ugly looking.

Aside from the noise of the Carter, which is something all Carter pumps are known for, Mine required no hodge podge, bodge jobs, or other such alterations of any kind. It fit the hanger perfectly, wired up just like stock, and everything fit - even the rubber isolation rings. About the only thing I had to do was trim up the 90 degree rubber fuel line that comes with the kit to make the pump sit more level in the hanger, and that was my own OCD at work. Yes, you hear the pump outside the truck just enough that you can notice it. However, inside my cab, my cab with no carpet or headliner or any sound proofing of any kind mind you, I don't hear it at all.

I Just installed a Carter on mine a couple of months ago (Part # P74155). Perfect fit and no hassles.. I will always chose Carter over other brands if I have the option. I will say this though, Carter fuel pumps are not known as the quietest pumps on the market, so don't be surprised if you still hear a slight noise from the pump running when outside the vehicle near the tank. I don't hear it in the cab though, which is nice. BTW, if you purchase the Carter fuel pump kit, get it off of RockAuto. $61.20 + shipping vs. the $108 for that summit listing. :thumbsup: P.S. Do yourself a favor and order a replacement lock ring when you order the pump. They aren't super expensive, and if you end up damaging yours getting it off like mine ended up being, you will be glad you have it.

235/75-15 is a 29.1" tire. If you know what your gear ratios are, then use this chart to select the right tooth count for the gear. http://www.transmissioncenter.net/Speedometer_Gear_Chart.jpg

I just fixed my last leak tonight. Finally tracked it down to the distributor...which was my fault because I kinda forgot to put the gasket back on when I swapped them out for the second time. :doh: Honestly, I agree with fixing the leak. As far as the small knock, have you verified what is actually knocking? It would seem wasteful to drop a bunch of cash on something that could simply be fixed with a new set of lifters or other cheaply and easily replaced part. FWIW, I know two local guys with Titan engines. One bought a complete stroker, and the other assembled the "kit" they sell which comes with block, head, and everything that just has to be put together. Both have been happy for many many miles (and over 2+ years). I have actually been looking at doing the same thing with a shortblock, but I plan on piecing mine together ala junkyard. I can get a short block for $120, and I can creatively switch the cranks out for a 4.2 before I take it up to pay. Then I just need to get pistons to use the 4.0 rods and have machining done. The guys at this particular yard don't give a crap...probably because I am there so much lol. If I can get a 4.5 or 4.6 renix style then I am happy. I know the Renix head unported isn't a loved thing by stroker guys, but after talking to some guys that have done it, I think it is the route for me. It shifts the powerband lower, and that's where I want it. No high HP bragging rights, but I don't plan on racing my truck.

I do the same things, mostly out of habit from driving commercial vehicles. In fact, I tend to find myself leaving following distances more appropriate for a semi than a car when I kind of get into a groove going down the highway. Tailgaters I am not too concerned with. Again, it comes down to what I learned from driving a big rig. I tend to exaggerate everything with a tailgater so they know what is going on. I signal earlier, brake sooner and more slowly, and if I see a chance where they can pass me I slow down to make them go by me (without using the brakes). P.S. I have experienced Florida drivers for myself quite often. I know exactly what you are talking about lol

X2. Checking the fuel pressure and ruling out the fuel system all together means you can narrow it down. One of those start simple and work your way up things. Nothing is more frustrating than spending a ton of money on something to then find out you didn't need it and your probably could have been solved for a few bucks.

My 2 cents as an OTR driver (aka Big rigs) is that people are simply selfish and rude, or distracted. If it is a matter of them not seeing you, which in some colors could be a part of it I agree, then explain the people that cut off and brake check 8+ft wide, 13+ft tall, 70ft long tractor-trailers. No, it comes down to people thinking "well, I don't care if you are there, I am coming over and you are going to move for me." There are plenty of overly aggressive bullies out there behind the wheel. It also comes down to people not thinking at all, or at least of the task at hand (ie, the distracted driving people have mentioned). I can also say this from my 700,000 logged miles of experience that it really depends on the region you are driving in as to how people act on the road. Some areas are more polite on the highway than others.

You might have a good point.......on the flip side.....Right after buying mine I took out a troll ad on the same site I bought it off of for $2500 and got 30 replies in 2 days I bet if you put it up for twice that you still would have had some replies. I probably also should have clarified that my particular MJ is a 4.0L 4x4 long bed with an AX-15 swap, new head, exhaust, shocks, rear leaf springs, and a lot of other little work done to it. The paint is hideous (done purposely by last owner) and it has a couple of dents and dings, but it is a completely rust free truck from California and the interior, minus the lack of carpet and headliner (which are going in soon) is in excellent shape. The last 3 MJ's that have gone up for sale in my area ranged from $1500 for one needing a lot of work to $7800 for a perfectly restored one.

Interestingly enough, if you take a look at what the current blue book values are for these trucks, I think a lot of you guys saying $3000 is the right price for a mint one would be amazed. NADA currently rates a 1988 Comanche at High retail of over $8000 and an average retail of around $5500. At least that is true in my neck of the woods, where older trucks in rust free condition are something akin to a unicorn. For you guys down south where rust isn't a big issue, I have noticed that prices seem far less dramatic. Still, in the end it really comes down to what price people are willing to pay. I personally wouldn't be surprised that if I slapped a Maaco paint job on my MJ today and threw it up for sale that I couldn't get $5000 for it easily. In short, keep in mind where you live as to how the market is. You may have to travel to get a good truck for cheap.

A resistor on a fuel pump circuit is designed to limit voltage to the fuel pump. Fuel pumps are an electric motor, and like all electric motors the more voltage that gets to them, the more strongly they operate, and the more fuel they pump as a result. In most cars a resistor is generally used on a fuel pump to keep the pump operating at low voltage during low load situations. Once a set of determined parameters have been met, such as specific RPM, TPS signals, etc, the system will switch and bypass the resistor to get full voltage and more fuel flow. This is generally done to increase fuel pump life, decrease evaporative emissions by reducing heating of the fuel in a return fuel system, and reduce noise from the pump. I am not very familiar with how the Renix system operates with it's resistor, and I was never given the chance to learn because mine was already bypassed. I do know that you can clearly hear my brand new Carter in-tank fuel pump just slightly over my exhaust system, which isn't super loud but not really "quiet" either, from outside of the truck. I don't hear it inside the cab at all though. The fact that even when it starts to run poorly when the problem occours, but will still idle ok really indicates a fuel flow problem like hornbrod stated in his first response. A way to look at fuel pressure when the issue starts occouring will give you a chance to diagnose this possible issue. With the gauge on the fuel rail, when the issue starts to occour you can rev it by hand and watch what the fuel pressure does when the engine starts to struggle. If the pressure drops as you rev it up, or doesn't increase as vacuum decreases, then you will have your answer.

Fuel pressure is very important in an EFI system. System pressure actually determines flow rate at the injector. If an injector is rated at 19lb/hr at 3 bar of fuel pressure and it loses 10psi, it can now only flow like a 16lb injector. That difference is enough to generally cause an ECU to max out injector duty cycle because it will detect a lean condition, or simply die from starvation. IMHO, it sounds like the fuel pump is getting tired. As it is running it is overheating and losing power. you shut it off and it gets a chance to cool down, so when you start it again it runs more strongly for a little bit until it starts to get too weak again. A lot of people say/think that fuel pumps only die instantly, but I have seen many that have given signs similar to yours before they crapped out. Just my theory on your issue at least. Not a strong theory though, because your restarts are almost immediate, which doesn't give the pumpa chance to cool much or at all.

Definitely test the new one. I got a new one for my 1988 when I was doing the trans swap on it and it tested out worse than the old one that came off. Old one was reading .36 Volts, and the new one was reading .30 right out of the box. Luckily the new-new one tested at .60 Something else You may want to do. Replace the fuel filter if you haven't already. Modern fuel does not like to sit for very long, and the fact that the truck sat for over 2 years would definitely have me going over and cleaning up the fuel system.

Pilot bearing size is really the key factor here. The Pilot hole is 1.816xx for the 92-04 HO engines, but the needle bearing section of the pilot is 1" OD and .75" ID. About the only way to get a pilot that will work with the later crank and early smaller ended input shafts is to spend the money on one of these. As of yet I have not seen any factory bushing/bearing that can be made to work with the OD/ID combination you require. I have heard of guys machining the early pilot bearings down a little to work inside the outer section of the 92+ outer pilot section, so that can be an option if you know someone with a lathe. http://www.advanceadapters.com/products/716120--pilot-bushing-590-id-x-1818-od/

If you have no luck with this then use this site. http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?siteid=213948 That is the company I got a new one through for roughly $76 shipped to my door. Call them before you place your order, because their system won't show any in stock, but what they will do is ship one over from another company. Order it off of the website to get the price on the web page of $69 or you will pay full price if you order over the phone (yea, it's kinda stupid that way). Search part number 5200 3927.

lol, my Jeep car :doh:

Just so it's know, an NP231 from an early ZJ also works (as I mentioned before). That is exactly what i have in my car. Don't pass up the ZJ's in the junkyard without checking, because they seem to be more common than XJ's (At least around here).

I've already used Car-part a lot. The problem with my state is that more local parts places tend to be hit or miss with listings on there. Good idea though.

I too distinctly remember reading that I needed to get the short shaft from at least one info source on the swap when I did mine. As far as the actual facts/reasoning behind why I have not a clue.

I can deal with that either way! thanks.

Man, I'm so sorry, but I've been looking for some LCA's to replace my stockers. It's too good a deal to pass up... lol, it's no biggie. Tell you what. I'll take the springs off your hands and you can have the LCAs :thumbsup: The springs interest me the most at this point, especially if I can get my hands on them for about the same price or less as replacement factories from Moog. I can work out the LCA thing a different way.

This is what I was looking for. I really appreciated the advice and insight. I am almost wondering if the rear leaves I got didn't give me a lot more ride height than factory, because the back of my MJ sits a lot higher than any other I have seen without a lift.