philbert001

If I'm not mistaken, as long as you have the 97-01 brackets, they'll bolt to the frame, but i don't think the old brackets will bolt to the newer bumper.

I had a sony deck years ago that I got free from a buddy, because he had blown the internal amp chips. It had front and rear chanel rca's, so I hooked it to a 4 channel amp, and it ran fine for like 3 years before i got rid of it. Point is, it may have blown it's amp somehow. does it have rca's in back, and do you have an amp, or even a home receiver you can plug it into? That'll tell ya!

Tape measure alignment. (Bad death wobble after making new UCAs, and swapping in lift from my XJ.) She was toed out pretty good! Installed new radiator. I was dumbfounded by how plugged up radiator was! (My whole driveline was recently stolen from my XJ, in order to finally get my MJ on the road. 90 XJ only had 113k on it, so good healthy renix for the manche!) Anyhow, I was shocked to see that just by swapping in a new radiator, I picked up 10lbs. more oil pressure, (30lbs at Idle before, 40lbs at idle now!), and my volts gauge went from 13 to 14! The only thing I can think of that could have caused everything to get healthier, is that the radiator was so plugged up that the water pump was actually robbing engine performance building up the pressure required to flow water through the radiator! That's my best guess on that at least. Anybody got any ideas, or thoughts on the subject?

I got over 6 outa my soa. What someone should have said to stop you, or caution you is that if you do that, you'll need to get a slip yoke eliminator, or at least a longer drive shaft! (You are probably close to your rear shaft falling out with just the 6 inches of lift you already have, unless you have done something about it already.)

It's garbage! It's not a catalyzed paint. Without being catalyzed, it doesn't have any durability. You can get a better cheap single stage paint just about anywhere that IS catalyzed! Cheaper too! And unless you really know what you are doing, you're gonna have to wet-sand and buff ANY Paint system to make it look good! I use matte clear a lot on motorcycles, but if you are garage painting your truck, I would just go get a quart of matting agent, and just add it to whatever paint you buy. It'll be easier for a rookie painter to do it that way. Using matte clear is tricky. It is very thick in the gun, so you have to open up your fluid feed to get it to atomize, but once it does, it likes to run if you let it get away from you! Adding matting agent to single stage is probably your best bet!

I say throw em on, and figure out what you HAVE to do from there! Cross the clearance bridge when you get to it. Know what I mean!?

If you wanna trim that much, you may be able to make it work, but you'll need to run wheels with far less backspace than stockers. (Wider stance) That'll help keep em out of the control arms. You can also, (In addition to wheels), shim your steering stops out by removing them from the knuckles, and adding a few washers. This will obviously limit your steering some, but it's a better option than limiting steering by shredding tires on control arms!

2 inch pucks won't be near enough to clear 33s! You'll be in the flares, in the control arms etc! If the price is right on those tires, buy em, and hold on to em till you find someone with a nice set of 31s who's lookin to go bigger. Or post em on craigslist as, "Will trade 33s for good 31s!" 31 is about as good as you'll get without doing more than 2 inch pucks.

Long as your Uncle has a decent air compressor, you should be able to do a fine job there! I would put a fan in any window in there, and point it outside to suck fumes out!

No problem man! "New paint?" is what the thread is called, and I wasn't the one to start it, but That's where I posted it. My little writeup is on page 3. (And there's some pointers throughout) Good luck, and have fun with it! I lucked out. My dad has been a painter his whole Adult life, and the skillset got passed down!

Bump for somebody looking for paint help.

I am an automotive painter by trade, so the way I would do it, and the way I would recommend you do it will be 2 different stories, (As I have thousands of dollars in equipment that you don't have, and years of practice!) I would recommend that you single stage it, and buy a cheap harbor freight HVLP spray gun, (Like $40) Wherever you get your paint, ask them to print you out a tech sheet. (It will be product specific, but will give you lots of info you'll need. (mix ratios, dry time, air pressure settings, surface prep, etc.) Napa has some cheap single stage paints from Martin senior, and they'll have someone around who can get you the tech sheet, and help you with what hardener and what reducer to use, etc. They'll also have all the other supplies you'll need like sandpaper, masking supplies etc. Painting uses a lot of air, so I would make sure you do it somewhere you have access to a good size air compressor. (60 gal minimum if possible.) If you don't have access to that much compressor, just be patient. spray one panel, and wait for your air pressure to come back up before moving on. I made a thread on here to help guys painting their own truck a few years ago. I'll track it down, and bump it, so it'll show up in the new posts section for ya. I tried to put a lot of the basics in it, but if something doesn't make sense to ya, or if you have a question for me, just post it there, and I'll help you out if I can. Don't be intimidated. Painting cars is only difficult if you have unrealistic expectations! (Meaning, if you want it to look perfect, have it done professionally, but if you are looking to make a bunch of body repairs, and want it all one color, with a little shine to it, you can manage that!)

I wasn't talking about doing that, I was just saying that it had a decent listing of what all is in that harness, and what colors go to what!

Hook up a fan. :rotf: :rotf: :rotf:

you must have transfer case envy, and you're obviously talkin street now. Come wheel with me buddy! Let's see how far your, "Skills" get you through 3 feet of mud, or a 200 foot hillclimb in 2wd! Skill doesn't equal traction my half jeep lovin friend!

I will agree that the SRT8 is a badass midsize suv made by chrysler, but it is in no way a jeep! I see past badges. Just because it says Jeep on the hood doesn't mean it is one, and on the flipside of that, just because something Isn't a Jeep, (By my standards), doesn't mean it's not a nice vehicle. Case in point, My favorite car of all time is the 1965 Pontiac GTO. Was that little turd they made in 04' a GTO? HELL NO! But was it a decent v-8 powered sportscar in the middle of an era of econoboxes? I'll concede to that. SRT8 GC, nice truck, but not a Jeep. May as well be a durango RT. In fact, the new Durango and the newest GC share more than just their parent company! They appear to sit on the same platform. Does that make the durango a Jeep? Or the GC a Dodge? In a word, Yes. Everything is so homogenized these days that without badging, you wouldn't know chevy from honda, or toyota from Ford. That is why I liked what I consider to be Jeeps. For the last few years of the ZJ, the last few years of the XJ, and the period of the WJ, Jeep was sticking with their roots of reliability through simplicity, while everyone else was getting into econobox mode and high tech mode.

UHOH! Your gonna get yelled at for not searching again! :no: :mad: :fs1: I just saw this info in a post about adapting an XJ interior harness into an MJ. Search on!

:agree: 100% How quick is really quick? Jim is right, they run right at 220. without a fan it may overheat from just sitting, but unless really quick is REALLY quick, I'd say throw a fan in it, and go! (If it aint broke, don't fix it!)

Don't care! It should be 4x4! ALL Jeeps should be 4x4! If it aint' a 4x4 with 2 solid axles, it aint a Jeep!

Swaybar links wouldn't have anything to do with how the coils sit. It does look very compressed though. Who are the springs from? Maybe the progressive springs are too progressive! (The soft part too soft!) You should also tighten up those link bushings. the bushings should be slightly compressed.

It'd be cooler if it were 4x4!

:rotf: Least we know what you are gonna do with it after replacement!

No problem! Hope it helps!

:agree: 2

Would too big cause problems? Look for an XJ in the yard with the factory tow package. It'll have one in it for the aw4, and it'll bolt right up! When I swapped the motor and trans outa my XJ, into my MJ, I brought it along! I just measured mine for ya, to see if your aftermarket ones will be comparable. The factory XJ one is 3 inches x 16 inches, (Not including the 2 hard lines coming off the end), and about an inch deep.