knever3

I'm looking for a dark gray 2 door tilt lever. The one that is on the back of the seat to tilt it forward. The metal is there but I need the plastic piece that goes over top of it. Shipping to 48640

I have the same problem after rebuilding my 242 and my Novak cable will not make it to 4low. Either I have 4low or 2wd high, not both. I told Novak that their cable needed to be longer to make all the movement. I still need to revisit mine. Let us know how you make out!

Very nice truck love the style.

:agree:

It looks like it has real 1 ton axles front and back. Look at the bolt pattern and spacing not to mention the offset of the front wheels. I love the idea but the cab would be cramped for long hauls. I loved our family's 23' Winnebago motorhome. Sometime I would like to own one myself.

Looks like the verdict is in. Valvetrain isn't the noise, going to park it for a while and then pull the engine and investigate. The plot thickens...

Where's the rolls eyes smiley?? :doh: Ok, that one will do.

Wow, that sucks. Hopefully the right decision will be with the Comanche still in the garage. :brows:

Very nice!

Well after driving it i have some type of tick. My pushrods are too long but there might be something more. Praying for something simple so i don't have to pull the motor again.

Hang in there, all old things have their faults. We are stronger for caring for them.

Awesome, now that i am home i can see your pics! Great looking truck. Now i must check out your diesel and neoic's build.

Ok crazy question that I might have missed. 2wd or 4wd? I have a 2wd Ba-10/5 in my garage from my Comanche with only 41,000 miles on it. $150 it's yours, I don't know where you live since it's not in your profile pic.

There is a specific tie rod adjustment tool that various companies like OTC make that attach to a wratchet and are shaped like a C. They pry open the sleeve while adjusting it instead of a pipe wrench that crushes the sleeve while trying to adjust it. I always clean out the sleeve because it's clogged with dirt, spray pennetrant on it and if it still doesn't move use some heat. The thing to remember when using heat during an alignment is to always wait till it's cold to get proper measurments.

Darn facebook pictures :fs1: Wish I could see the pics!!

Awesome fab work on the center console very trick.

Sweet, love the combination. I miss my '98XJ classic.

You could run the car unplug the temp sensor get an OHM meter measure the resistance change and convert it to degrees most likely in the electrical service manual. Is the car getting heat? How do you know the engine temp is normal if the gauge reads high? Take it to a shop where they have a snap on scanner that reads real time. That will show your exact engine temp and see if the car is going into closed loop, meaning that the ecu can see that the engine is up to temp and the trans can shift into OD and idle down, closing the EGR valve. I can go on and on guessing but a scanner will tell you everything.

There wasn't ANY part numbers on either old flexplate so I will never know why these parts differ. It would be nice to determine what was really wrong. I do know this, if there's any more problems in the future with the entire drivetrain I will rip it out and go newer, '91+. It's just too hard to find parts anymore, I will agree with Hesco.

Update today. When I got home i looked at the signal ring and it can't move because it's all one piece, with the exception of the welded on starter ring. I called a junk yard close to my house yesterday and they supposedly had a flexplate from a '90 Cherokee. I didn't hold my breath if it was going to be the right one or in good shape but the pictures tell the story. I have amassed quite the collection of flexplates. The one on the bottom is still my stock cracked one. The two on the top are the Crown and the ATP that have the timing windows in the wrong location. The second one to last is the junk yard part I picked up this morning. It is exactly the same as my stock one. So it does exist, it's no fluke. I got it running after adjusting the TPS sensor. It runs good but it has a wicked lifter tick. I have 50psi of oil pressure but it's out of the ordinary. That's for another post I guess. I'm so glad I have it out of the garage on it's own 4 wheels. Thanks for all the replies and help guys!

I believe the flexplate can only be installed one way. I took the washer and rotated it to every bolt to make sure this exact scenario wasn't happening. I thought the same thing. I will Really clean it up tonight, I called a junk yard and they have a used one I can see tomorrow. If that's not correct and if I can't find any number on it I will just have it welded to get buy until I can get it figured out I guess. I am in the same boat, I can't think why the aftermarket parts can be all wrong, just racking my brain to find out why. I'm sure it's an easy fix like putting gas in it but we'll see!! Come to think of it I insert a large screwdriver through the wiindow to wedge against a bolt to torque it. Maybe it could slip? I know the ring gear is welded but I don't know if the signal ring can be moved. Very interesting!!!!!! I can't wait to get home and check to see what a goof I am if that's the case. :doh:

Wow, I called Hesco this morning to see if they ever had a problem like this and mentioned that I had some of their parts on the truck and the guy really turned me off. He said the Jeeps are getting old and almost considered "Scrap". Wow, never heard that. I don't consider my truck scrap, thank you very much. He said I'd be better off changing everything over to the '91 and up OBD1 system to get away from my problem locating the flexplate. Now I'm offended and still without my truck.

Better hope she doesn't read the forum like mine does, that would spoil the suprise.

Didn't think about that scenario, I don't want to source a 25 year old JY part, it's going to fail sometime anyway. The only other option is a very expensive one. The Hesco conversion kit for the front of the crank and I think I have to pull the harmonic balancer off to install it. I thought it was around $300!

Thanks for the contact Eagle. I bought a flexplate from Crown, I even checked the box to make sure. The same result. The windows are in the wrong spot. I guess I should put it back in and just adjust the dist untill the timing is correct. That is really crazy since the dist is supposed to be set to TDC 0 degrees and the computer is supposed to adjust the timing according to the knock sensor and such. Picture of all three, my original on the bottom, Advance Auto's ATP/Dorman, and the Crown is on the top. The flexplates do have different holes drilled in them in some locations most likely for balancing. Back to square one...