knever3

I don't like my emergency brake pedal, it's always in the way of resting my foot. Have you seen someone use a manual hand one from a Toyota or something similar? Mine isn't even hooked up right now since the Dana 35 backer plates are wollowed out and I probably need new lines anyway. I wanted to remove it all together and get one to mount somewhere else. I want to stick with my bench by the way so the tunnel mount isn't an option.

Yeah I have the part number, supposedly there's ONE in PA I will call next week to see if they still have it. ONE is ONE short though so if anyone has a lead on a pair that would be so awesome. Thanks for the post!

I have these mounts, they are excellent, but I have more vibration at idle than I ever did before even with the bolts loose like they mention in the instructions. I have the rubber ones, not the poly ones.

Still looking...

Great!

I would like to install the 4x4 badges but I want a new pair. Does anyone have a new set or know where a new set could be located? I could use any "NEWER" type, but I would like to stay with the OE look. Thanks!

http://www.serious4x4.com/forsale.html Check with these guys.

I wouldn't tell the safety people that you switched vin plates because you changed the dash. That would be a lot of explaining and probably end up bad. Just find the same rivits and do it. No one will know or care that the interior is not the stock color. Heck, people paint their interior's all the time. The vin is on the firewall tag anyway so they will match.

The vin is attached to the dash, when you swap the dash use the vin with the dash. Do you have the title of the donor truck? If not you can just drill and rivit the new vin to the black dash. I know everyone will jump on my reply telling you it's fraud but you are not a chop shop. It's Jeep (or AMC) that attached the vin to the dash instead of the truck, it's not your fault.

I dig it, exact same interior as my '87.

Now that's crazy, didn't see that one coming.

I really enjoyed reading your posts. I am in awe how strict they are for certification for the road to get your plates. If that were in the states 20-30% of all cars would not pass, I guarantee it!! Do you want to save the Cherokee emblems? If not a heat gun works well to heat up the adhesive but be very carefull you don't heat it too much. You can also use dental floss to get behind there, it's not strong enough with one strand, you will have to braid it to get some strength. I used the heat gun and a plastic pry tool and once I got the side peeled back enough I used pliers to pull on it while heating it. Very nice work, with the inspection it really makes you go over the whole truck and that means you get the experience working on it too. Most people here just fix it to drive it no matter how bad things are. There are so many cars that aren't safe to drive, but no one cares enough to fix them. Good luck with the rest of your build, great job!

http://www.dirtboundoffroad.com/optima-34-78-bolt-in-battery-tray-jeep-cherokee-xj.html

Not much of an update but the cruise works now, had to clean all the contacts and hook up some wires.

I don't remember, did you have the infinity OEM system in that? I know you added that OE spare tire sub and the Rockford amp. Does the sub sound the same? Did your battery get crushed in the accident? If so a short could have done some damage perhaps. Do you have any added noise, alternator wine, static etc? You said you have all the settings the same on the radio so that sounds strange. You are using the Kenwood deck's speaker outputs right? No amp?

So I'm guessing you have the yellow on the pioneer hooked up to the Red/White and the red from the pioneer hooked up to the purple/orange? Did you check the fuses in the fuse panel? Did you check the wires at the radio? Did you cut the factory plug off the Jeep or did you buy the proper wire harness for the truck? This thread shows what the plug should look like from the manufacture. http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/need-help-stereo-wiring-please-59219/ This should help you out too. http://crutchfield.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/5744/kw/1988%20jeep%20comanche/session/L3RpbWUvMTMxOTkyNTM3Mi9zaWQvMWkyd1RPSGs%3D

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Very cool I really like to see something different.

Tough subject, but I agree. Your faith should be strong enough to get past the activists though. I applaud you for bringing it up. Much respect. America is so cautious to take any side they just avoid any mention of a difficult situation because they think that it's better than fighting over what you truely believe in. Freedom we stand, one nation under GOD.

A lot of time went into this explanation and I agree. It's all up to someone's personal preference as to outward appearance, but facts will be facts.

You may just need to upgrade your cables, the positive one from your alternator to the battery and the body ground. Are you measuring from your battery or just talking about your gauge on the cluster? What battery are you using? Are the electric fans run off relays with at least 10 gauge wire directly to the battery? Those will pull almost 60 amps together on startup. Maybe a SPAL fan controller will help, it uses variable speed to load and unload so the inrush current isn't as much.

In my other tech post I am missing two connectors and the wire between. Can you guys with 4.0L auto take a picture and post it of what is supposed to connect these two connectors? I am missing something so I made a jumper temp to make them work. Mine is from '87-90. Here's the pics. They are under the dash, one comes from the harness on the ECU and the other comes from the harness that goes up to the left of the steering column. Thanks so much.

Huge update, I called in a little favor from my friend Jerami today and we determined what the problem was together. It was a long hunt but I think we got it. For starters we tested a lot of wires going to and from the brake switch, cruise control, and comfort/power switch. When we were probing all the wires it was obvious that the signal from the brake switch/cruise and comfort/power switch wasn't making it to the TCM. We discovered these two plugs that don't go together. I think one was C115 and who knows what the other one is, we never found it! The flat 3 pin female connector has wires tan, light blue/black, and black/yellow. It just so happens that the power/comfort switch has a black/yellow wire too and a tan. Jerami made a jumper for the two plugs while I watched my son for a while. This is the flat 3 pin female connector. Now onto the second plug. It has 6 wires in it, male with three wires that we could trace. Tan, light blue/black, and black/yellow. Sounds familiar, right? Well we spent some time with continuity and the wires go from the aforementioned switches to the TCU. This is the 6 pin plug, the three wires we tracked down, the other three who knows? So onto the third piece of the pie. There are two brown brake switch plugs and a jumper for the clutch if you have an automatic. We measured the jumper and it contributed 33 ohms of resistance so we cut it out and spliced it together getting rid of that unneeded resistance. Nest was the second brown brake switch. It ended up doing nothing at all. We left it unplugged. The next was that clear plastic plug that goes to the cruise control vacuum brake switch. I didn't trust it so I unplugged it and Jerami made a jumper for it. After the upteenth test drive the torque converter finally engaged. Now, we did probe the C14 on the TCU and supplied 12V earlier to lock it up to make sure the solenoids were working in the trans. It locked up as expected. The fight was why were the wires missing in the first place. This is the jumper to the cruise control brake switch Jerami made up. It looks like I need two things, well actually three. First a new cruise control brake switch. Second, a jumper for those two plugs (and find out if the other three wires are necessary for anything else.) And three a new cruise control module. We unplugged the board and there was some corrosion on the terminals on the board and maybe a short sometime long ago. Does anyone have any of these items that want to sell me so I can get this thing on the road? Thanks again for all your help along the way, you have been instrumental in determining the root cause(s) of this conundrum.

Ok, digging into it where does the blue/yellow wire go from the TCU? It seems I'm missing a wire that the TCU is supposed to see the brake switch. I really need to have all the FSM's for this thing!!

Ok, last night I jumped the second brown connector to the brake switch. I went for a test drive and the torque converter didn't lock up. The search continues this weekend. :(