Automan2164

Get it done Don! Let me know... I have a famous '92 Hunter green Elim that needs some stripes once it gets painted. Rob L. :cheers:

Unlimited Rubicon... :drool: Rob L.

I would think that the parts stores would have to have something... Beyond that, I would try the junkyard, or look up to see if there is a disc brake conversion online... The 9" is a tried and true axle, there is a pretty decent aftermarket for it I imagine. Rob L.

Welcome to the club! There are no dumb questions... Don't be shy to ask. Rob L.

Don, IIRC, I thought he had a slightly darker set of decals. Rob L.

Do it Don!!! Your truck would look AWESOME!!! Bye bye swoosh! Rob L.

You can get the clutch disc and crap anywhere. Call back to the dealer and ask about a SLAVE CYLINDER. Thats what is pissing out fluid, not your disc. SLAVE CYLINDER AND CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER are what you NEED to get from THE DEALER. Rob L.

Jim, you never fail to amaze me. Your a been there, done that, bought the shirt, and then taught the class kind of guy. Is there anything you haven't done? If I could do 1/8th of the stuff you've talked about I would be a happy man. :bowdown: Cheers to you brother. :cheers: Rob L.

This is not something you chance at used. Unless that is, you like taking the transmission down when it fails. This isn't even an aftermarket thing. For clutch slaves/masters, dealer is the best bet for the longest lasting repair. Rob L.

Yikes! Steel tools. Hope that didn't contact the main journal. Rob L.

Let me know how it turns out, and take pics. 4.5 is exactly what I want to shoot for. Rob L. :cheers:

Yes. The pumps are the same... All you need to do is take your pump out of the sender unit assembly, and put the new unit in. Its not that hard really. But... With the condition of your sender unit assembly, putting that thing back into the truck is just asking for trouble. Rob L.

I am a fleet mechanic for Woodstock, IL. Its where they filmed the Bill Murray movie "Groundhog Day". I maintain anything with an engine, wheels, and anything broken/in need of repair. As an example, today I put a new recoil on a string trimmer, changed batteries on a backhoe, trained 2 guys on the operation of our large front end loader, and am currently taking the trans out of a cop car to replace the flex plate. My worst enemy is our snow plows... They are big rust buckets. Nothing comes off without a torch. We have even used the torch to put a part back on... :ack: We replace oil pans on those once every 2-3 years or so because they rot out so bad. Gotta love the rust belt. :fs1: For kicks and fun money I am a Paid on Call Firefighter/EMT. Rob L.

:eek: Did that MJ have wood grain or was that just a two tone with the reflection of the woody? Also, that sender looks pretty crappy, but most of the time, the first few things to check when testing the fuel pump is the ballast resistor in the engine compartment, and the pump ground. The fuel pump shares a common ground with the tail lamps behind the drivers side tail light. Make sure that ground is good to. And another note... If you breakdown and try to get a sender from a parts store for a comanche, its going to be a big disappointment. No matter what they say, the thing in the box will be a cherokee sender unit, and they aren't the same. I would throw up a wanted ad for a sender in the classifieds and get a decent used one from a member. Rob L. :cheers:

Have you checked/changed the oil before trying to turn it over for the first time? Would hate to be doing damage to a saveable engine by not spending a few bucks for discount oil and a cheap filter... I picked up a truck that hadn't ran in a year and this was my process: Turned engine over by hand to make sure it was free Drained oil Pulled plugs and inspected Pulled cap/rotor inspected Pulled valve cover to look at the rockers Put a new filter and poured the oil over the exposed valve train Pulled the distributor and primed the oil pump with fresh oil and watched it come out all the rockers Reinstalled the valve cover Reinstalled the distributor Started the truck. Seems like a lot, but in my mind, I put $10 worth of cheap wally world oil and a filter on an engine I am potentially saving. sound investment in my book. Rob L. :cheers:

I had thought that Zach over at Z/M Jeep was popping out cab corners and rockers too... Or am I nuts? Rob L. :dunno:

Paint it black. Good score. Rob L. :cheers:

:Shazaam!: Rob L. :D

Check to see if the leak is current. Brake fluid is very corrosive and destructive to the plastic of the fuse box. If its taken its toll, contacts will corrode in the fuse box, and you'll start getting weird electrical problems. I bet with fuses like that, the fuse box is done for if you start picking at it. Best way to fix it is to put in a new harness and fuse box. It could be damage from an old master, but if its from this one, you should replace it. Rob L.

Welcome to the club. As I am sure you already know, those cracked fuses are most likely the result of the clutch master leaking down the firewall, and rotting the fuse box. If it hasn't been fixed already, that would be something to take into account. Rob L.

How long, from eye to eye are your lower links? I know there is a ballpark number that they should be... Someone help me out here... Rob L.

Gracias Senor. That delivery destination would explain its abnormally clean state for deep in the rust belt of the midwest. I was hoping it was made around my birthday, couple months off... but eh, can't win 'em all. :D I really need to get the Dealer Connect info from my buddy that used to work for dodge again... Rob L. :cheers:

Unfortuneatly, this is one of those cursed MJ parts. If I remember correct, the teeth that "ratchet" grind down, and will no longer hold it. The only fix is to replace the assembly. The only problem with that is they no longer make the assembly. Best thing would be to junkyard pick one yourself, or post up in our wanted section to see if there is a member with a good extra. Rob L.

I usually put the bolts in but not thread them in... But just slide them in, then pinch them together with my hand and use them to rock back and fourth to break the grip. Rob L.

Just a simple question... Can any of the guys who work near the mopar system run this VIN for me and see if it would bring up the build date? Just looking, and the door sticker long faded away. I know its old, and probably long out of the system, but worth a shot. 1JTMG66F3HT073707 Thanks in advance as always... :bowdown: Rob L. :cheers: