Jump to content

cracker

Members
  • Posts

    482
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by cracker

  1. 5% is probably too high. Maybe 1% different and it is usually a column shifter or a minor structural support that makes it different. For all intensive purposes, they are the same.
  2. A three link with panhard would work with the stock tank.
  3. change the fuel filter?
  4. I can't beleive this thread went three pages.
  5. I may be wrong. :doh: It is the intake that doesn't match. Sorry.
  6. Causes as listed by Genovast from a thread on the first page. Many reasons can cause this. Look into all of it.
  7. pull a shaft ;)
  8. It will bolt up but the ports won't match. Run the HO head too ;)
  9. Take a look at the spring rates. The 8" SKyjacker spring rate (220lb/in) makes the world of difference for me and I have had them on two vehicles now and I would get them again for a third. I would get it and cut it down to the height you are looking for if you think it is too tall. Have you looked into this: http://www.efunda.com/DesignStandards/s ... signer.cfm It is a little confusing but you can get an idea on how it is calculated. Spring rate is crucial on how vehicles handle in certain situations. BTW..........Rusty's stuff sucks.
  10. The 44 dif is physically larger than the Dana 30 dif so yes, there would be better clearance with a 30. THe LP44 and HP44 have the same clearance (identical). Folks are not breaking the low pinion R&P and not the high pinion for that matter. They are breaking a lot of HP30 R&Ps though. For the front a HP R&P on the 44 is stronger than a LP but the ONLY benefit with our weight and limited powerplant by going to a HP 44 is the driveline angle and protection for the front driveline. You cannot starve a low pinion pinion bearing easily and 99% of the folks I know use covers with the high fill plug effectively overfilling the dif.
  11. Yeah but they have some known issues already in regards to the housings bending. My buddy's Rubi is in the shop getting BOTH of the housing swapped out right now ;) They are also the newer 5 x 5 bolt pattern.
  12. The UCAs are pretty 'light duty' and should be replaced regardless plus they are 21 years old ;)
  13. Alloy USA stopped doing shafts a year ago when they were bought out. Consider Nitro 4340 shafts these days (same manufacturer as the old Alloy USA stuff).
  14. Overall clearance from a HP and a LP 44 is identical. The driveline is better protected with a HP and one should adjust the pinion angle on the LP fairly high. As far as strength goes no one has ever proven that a LP44 is nominally stronger than a 30. The main problem with the 30 R&P is flex from the whole axle (you mentioned trying to patch this with a truss). The 44 (regardless of HP or LP) has a way stronger casting that is far superior to the dana 30 that will help prevent the broken R&P problems had on the 30. The other main factor is our engines are too lame to have an issue with a LP44. ;)
  15. Well, suggest you get it then. Let us know how it works out. I am tempted to run another full hydro and trash the damn box ;)
  16. Funny. My contact at PSC mentioned just yesterday to get a durango box from 91-99. :huh???:
  17. FWIW..... I bought a Waggy 44 (LP) for $58. 4340 alloy shafts (used) with CTMs for $400. Open carrier for $50 and a mini spool for $50. Gears for $100. I cut my brackets myself and turned the knucles as well as cut off the leaf purch casting that comes on the Waggy 44. One could have grabbed a HP44 axle housing at a yard for about $100 more but I didn't have the cash at the time. Since the 44 has locking hubs the spool doesn't effect me and I have 30 spline inner shafts for my time to fab it up and at a low cost of $660. I am building a rear 60 to match the front bolt pattern and 35 spline shafts for very little as well. Right now I am waiting for a deal on D44 flat top knuckles as I have already bought high steer arms for $60 (used). The reason I mention this is for a FAR less money than you have been quoted, you could build better if you can muster up the skills and the deals. I realy hate seeing people dumping that much money on the Dana 30.
  18. Smart man! Renix can'r be as good......it is French ;)
  19. My HO always pulled SUPER well. Since getting my Renix MJ about 5 months ago I have been all but impressed. It is difficult to confirm the mileage on the Renix as the speedo no workie when I got it but my HO has 156K on it and from what I know about the MJ motor I would take a half-@$$ guess at 170K (122K on the speedo and it now works :) )
  20. Not in my case.....My HO pulls WAY better on my 42s than my RENIX does on 37s (same 5.13 gears on both). :D
  21. My interior lights are out as well but the previous owner had wired in the brake lights on their own. :doh: I have a used lightswitch/dimmer I am going to place in there and see if I get any improvement.
  22. So you are driving around without a prop valve?
  23. I am thinking on doing the same thing. I wanted to just cut out 8-10" behind the rear wheel and put the back of the MJ on so it looks stock. My goal is to eliminate the overhang of the bed after the leaf shackles.
  24. :huh???: The renix and OBD1 HO use the same cam. On a renix system, its retarded -8*. On the 91+ HO, its retarded -4*. The difference IS that great. My auto '94 XJ buggy on 5.13s and 42" tires gets up and goes WAY better than my Renix MJ on 37s with 5.13s (an AW4). Neither engine has any performance mods except the MJ has a bored throttle body and 19lb mustang injectors.
  25. While you are 100% correct in pointing out that there are many parts to consider while upgrading the brake system on any vehicle, I must say the rear discs (Explorer) made the super steep stuff we do out west way more safe when having to back down. My first (ignorant) experience with this was when I first got an XJ some years ago and immediately upgraded the rear axle to an 8.8 and without touching the prop valve, MC, or booster, I could stop WAY better and roll in reverse down steep angles with way better control than I could with the drums. Today I have eliminated the factory MJ setup and run drums with an XJ prop valve and a WJ MC/Booster set up. I have an adjustable prop valve sitting here at the house waiting for my Rear D60 to go in with explorer disc brakes. :cheers:
×
×
  • Create New...