88mjgilley

rockauto.come does not to bad of a price either

ive had around 15 xj and mjs and trust me i know my mj doesnt have a rev limiter it screams at 6500

i have ran rotella 15/40 and a bottle of lucas in every 4.0 ive had it helps keep the valve train noise down and the oil pressure up been doing this for about 8 years now and have never had any internal issues ps my 4.0s normally live on the rev limiter also :)

http://grandrapids.craigslist.org/cto/3365724740.html

in need of a 4wd trans for my MJ project prefer ax15 but if any one has a ba-10 i will rock it untill i find a ax15 if anyone has one just shoot me a price and your location

for the steel line just make it out of brake line and then almost all of you auto parts stores carry rubber fuel line also use fuel injection hose clamps

also i believe the shroud would be the only thing it could possible interfere with from what i can remember the fan doesnt stick out that far from the engine it just has a deeper shroud so it is possible it would take a little bit of shroud trimming but i am not 100% positive

the 2.8 and 2.5 is going to sit back farther in the engine bay then the 4.0 the only thing that i think could possibly cause a issue would be the fan shrouds but I'm not sure on there fan mounts due to never owning any with the other engine options

fuel pressure?

uni body rails are the same there should be no differences depending on what motor you have

if that is the case try jumping the starter with the key on it sounds to me like your ingintion switch is bad so when you are cranking it over by the key it is killing the signal to the injectors causing them not to cycle i use to have this issue but backwards when i would turn the key to the start pos it would run but as soon as i would let off the key it would die

so when you put gas into the intake it will start and you can drive it just fine or it only runs when your feeding it gas your self into the intake

ive changed quite a few of them the one ot the top of the diff i normally take a sharp point chisel and put a deep v in it and then after a few hits with a hammer they fall right out

try un hooking the vacuum line to the egr valve on the drivers fender it may fix the running rough issue but not the blend doors

ok so its a 50/50 chance that it will plug and play there is that better? lol

Should just be a plug and play as far as i know

http://nashville.craigslist.org/cto/3398425460.html

rock auto carries mj floor board pannels if the floors are rusty

sounds like you cps is going out to me also my old 95 did that all the time untill i replaced it

also you could get a axle shaft out of a non cad axle and remove all the inner guts of the cad the newer one piece aqxle shaft will slide right in

i have always ran NGKs in all of my jeeps as well

ya that was what i was wondering i put in the raditor out of my 96 xj i also have a few ho thermostat houseing so i was going to attempt to wire the thermostat mounted fan switch into the old fan switch wireing since the ho raditor doesnt have the locationj to install that factory switch so it would still come on when needed and i will also be wireing it into a switch but i always wire them up so they will come on when needed since i forget to turn it on from time to time

i have a few trans adaptors laying around to be able to convert it then all you would need is shafts tcase and axle all very easy stuff to get ahold of

opps just saw you replaced the cps

Check the crank sensor my old 88 had bad motor mounts and climbing a hill once when the motor came up the cps met the firewall and snapped it